My 4th post of the week. For those keeping track, have no fear, I am not finished with the giants/trolls yet!! Because I still have to write about the 5 days I spent volunteering to help build a new one!!!
But before doing that, I wanted to find the 7th giant: Thomas on the Mountain.
So, with a little arm twisting (from me), the youngest agreed to go, so we set out to find Thomas Friday, July 3rd.
At this point the youngest is totally over bike rides longer than 4 or 5 miles and all these Giants are 10 or 12 miles away. But we do take our bikes with us – it is super easy to transport them on the S-tog trains and then bike 5 – 7 minutes to the Giant.
So our trip out there – bike 2 min to the closest train station, take the green line direction Hoje Taastrup. Settle in for a 35 min ride…
And this concludes the posts about our search for the Forgotten Giants!
You may be wondering “Where are the other 2 members of your immediate family?” or thinking “ok, kinda tired of seeing you and the youngest only, would love to see pics of the other 2 as well!” And you are not alone in these thoughts!
The eldest has a very demanding social life – especially once Denmark began to enter Phase 2 of re-opening and then really especially since school ended mid- June.
She is up and out of the apartment by about lunchtime every day and we don’t see her again until 8:30 or 9:00pm.
And when she is around, she is certainly a 14 yo when it comes to having her picture taken. Which is to say, she hates it, often refuses but is always ready with a glare or glower.
The majority of the time I honor this request, but I also sometimes don’t because I know I would regret it – not having very many pictures of her.
MBH has been working all the time. We had all sorts of plans for traveling and hosting visitors for April, May, June, and July. All of which were canceled because, COVID19. This plus the quarantine/lock down meant there just wasn’t a whole lot else for him to do. So he’s kind of been kicking a$$ and taking names with his job this whole time.
In any case, here are a whole lot of photos since about January 2020 to prove to you that we’re still all together…
This post is dedicated to MBH and the eldest.
Rome, January 2020
This concludes the photos from our fabulous trip to Rome in late January 2020. It’s definitely not all of them. We were there for 7 days and I took dozens, if not hundreds every day. But I decided I’d have some mercy on those who dare read this post.
Back in Denmark. 2020
Yeesh, isn’t this post done yet?
lol. no.
I’m making up for lost months here!
Plus, lots of people (ok, maybe 2) said they couldn’t wait to read more!
About 10 pictures left…
Hang in there. Or bail! It’s ok! I won’t be mad!
These posts are approximately 97% for my own entertainment and record-keeping. I can only hope that others enjoy them too.
The first week of June the youngest and I found Little Tilde and Hilltop Trine. By this point Denmark had entered Phase 3 of re-opening and she and the oldest were back in school, in the classroom. She no longer had her 2 hour long lunch break.
We had used the lunch break to look for the Giants, to go jogging (run for her, shuffle for me – averages out to jogging I’d say), and to take bike rides to the beach, lakes and ponds.
But by the time she and her sister went back to school, I think she was well good and tired of all that exercise for exercise’s sake. Although I gotta say we had worked up to 3mile jogs and 18/20mile bike rides.
Also, I would always ride my fast (very light) road bike, clipped into my pedals (this allows cyclists to *pull* on the pedals as well as *push* on them), while she road her 50# upright commuter bike. And even with those 2 significant disadvantages, she kept up with me easily.
Our long bike ride to or from the Giants also shortened a good bit. Which was fine. We were outside, getting sunshine and fresh air and at least 30 minutes of cardio activity. We didn’t need to be training for an Ironman!
First Giant(or 4th, I guess I should say, 1st for this post) was Little Tilde. And, as the youngest just reminded me, we did bike all the way there and then took the train home.
Monday, June 1: Little Tilde
It was one of the many Danish National holidays…
Sunday June 7th: Hilltop Trine
Although my memory of the details of each of these days is flagging a bit, I’m 99% sure I would decide which Giant to seek out (and which day) based on the weather (sunny and warm) and wind direction (Favorable for either a bike ride out or the bike ride back). All of the Giants are quite accessible by bike and public transportation.
Tuesday, April 28th: Sleeping Louis
I had forgotten, but Louis was the 3rd giant we actually found. First was Oscar under the bridge in August 2019, 2nd was Green George in Freetown Christiania in November 2019 and then Sleeping Louis in April 2020.
The weather wasn’t quite swim-in-63-degree-harbor-water warm, but the sun was out more frequently, we’d been in lockdown/quarantine for more than a month and going to find a giant at a time gave us a good excuse to do that. Can’t quite remember how I decided to find Louis first, but in any case, here was our bike route. This was when the youngest was still on board for longer bike rides…
We had one last Giant to find, Thomas on the Mountain. And so on a cool and cloudy Friday in July the youngest and I set out to find him…
After a not-insignificant hiatus from updating the blog, I’ve got a couple of posts to write – well, more than a hundred, really – but I’m going to commit to writing just two for the time being.
And while I have plenty of excuses for not keeping up with this blog, for brevity purposes (hahahahahahahahahahaha for those who know me well – brevity and me might be a wee bit of an oxymoron) I’ll just share two:
Excuse #1
The Danish winter: long, dark, wet (but not that cold), and zero sunshine for weeks and weeks and weeks and WEEKS. As a result, I’m pretty sure I developed a touch of SAD that was wholly unfazed by lots of Vitamin D supplements and anti-depressants (also red wine and candles)
Most of my days were filled with lighting candles, getting uselessly angry at the weather and rain, praying for sun, thinking about all the brilliant and hilarious blog posts I was going to start writing *tomorrow,* grocery shopping, and cooking [fairly delicious, according to the fam], dinners…
Excuse #2
The Danish summer:*** glorious, long days, endless sunshine (not even joking, sun sets around 9:40pm, it’s light until about 1am, and the sun starts shining again about 3:30am), crisp and clean water to swim in, beautiful beaches, low humidity, mild temperatures. I could go on and on and on. The point is, it’s magnificent here. I feel guilty if I’m not outside in the sunshine every waking moment (and am not alone in this) and all I have the discipline to do is be outside: swimming, cycling (without fear of getting killed by a car), jogging, walking (without fear of getting killed by a car), exploring parks and gardens and lakes, and, starting in April…
…finding the rest of the Forgotten Giants with the youngest (without fear of being killed by a car)… The oldest has a dizzying social calendar and with the amazing [AND SAFE] biking and pedestrian infrastructure, extensive public transportation, a Rejsekort card I add money to every once in a while, the eldest heads out in the late AM, after many hours of beauty rest, and we don’t see her until about 8pm or 9pm or 10pm…When she texts and begs and pleads in a very sweet [texting] voice for an extended curfew, which we 9 times out of 10, grant. That 1 time out of 10 denial is when it’s her turn to do the dishes…
***Denmark has basically 2 seasons, winter and summer. Maaaaybe summer can be divided into *cool* summer (~60F) and *less cool* summer (70F – 85F)
Our friends Christine and Dave introduced us to the Forgotten Giants August 2019 when we met up with them in a town a little south of Copenhagen. It was an all around wonderful day and lo and behold, we found “Oscar Under the Bridge.”
But, in case you’ve only got enough patience and/or time for one of my blog posts today, here are photos of our trip to find Oscar August 2019:
First, Oscar’s hand:
Then his face, covered with children:
The youngest, obliging with a smile and a random child on Oscar’s nose.
OSCAR!
The scenery at all the trolls/Forgotten Giants is magnificent.
Then, when our friends Svanhildur, Thor, Embla, and Freyja came to visit in early November 2019, and on one day, we took a stroll through Freetown Christiania.
And lo and behold rounded a corner and there was Green George! Although the photo on Thomas Dambo’s site is faaaarrr better than mine, here’s proof I was actually there:
So, two giants found, 5 more to go.
I have to admit here, that I’m not entirely sure if Green George is considered part of the Forgotten Giants or simply another brilliant and creative troll sculpture by Thomas Dambo (all from recycled materials! (except the screws!) in a lovely, intentional, nature setting.
In any case, we have found two trolls and at this point, I am intrigued and impressed, and hoping to find ALL of them!
SO, in May 2020, the youngest and I started going to find the other Forgotten Giants- doing so on her 2 hour lunch break from remote learning (also on the weekends).
We’d bike out and take the train back in or take the train out and bike home – depending on the wind direction. The headwinds in Denmark are fierce…
A friend informed me that in Denmark “every direction is a headwind” and it is 150% the truth.
The first one we set out to find was Teddy Friendly.
YES!!!!
WE WILL!
FEAR NOT MY DAUGHTER!
HERE HE IS!
HELLOOOO TEDDY!!!!
So after hanging out with Teddy for a few minutes, taking the many obligatory photos, it was time to head to the train station.
And actually, what we did was take an 11.59 mile bike ride north (winds were from the south).
And here’s our bike route to the train station (Not the closest train station, for those of you wondering)
A few photos of the route.
Brilliant blue skies, sunshine, endless fields of rapeseed flowers, bike lanes separated from the roads (reduced risk of death from cars – Yes, USA, I’m talking to you. I know you are a total and wholly avoidable and unmitigated disaster right now with your COVID19 management/response, but please add “do better by bicyclists” to your list)
So at this point you may be thinking “ok, cool, you and the youngest have started seeking out the Forgotten Giants, you’ve done 1 blog post in 6 months,
Are the oldest and MBH anywhere to be found?
ARE YOU EVEN STILL MARRIED?
What’s the 2nd blog post gonna be?
And I feel obliged to inform you that this will likely be 1 of AT LEAST 4 blog posts (two more about our search for all the Forgotten Giants)
But wait,
say those of you doing math in your head
“Your math is adding up to only 3 blog posts… Didn’t you say you’ve committed to a couple posts?
“A couple” meaning ‘two?'”
“And now you’re talking about 4 blog posts? ”
“But you’ve only got 3 planned?”
“WTH? “
“DID YOU EVER EVEN LEARN MATH?”
I did!!!
AND,
I am thrilled to inform you that AT LEAST the 4th blog post will be about the time that I actually helped build troll #3 of the Trolde Folke Fest project.
I have taken well over 300 photos, met some awesome folks from around the world, and learned that:
A “jigsaw” is not just a puzzle!!! it’s a power tool too!!!
A screw gun is not the same thing as a drill…whathe…
A raft will float away if not thoroughly secured (the most hilarious day of the whole week)
Wooden pallets are the best source of recycled wood [in the world]
Thomas Dambo may just be the most resourceful artist [in the entire universe].
And this first post after a many-months hiatus is just to give a bit of context to why it I’m finding it so cool and fun and an incredible privilege to help build a troll (and also wishing we were staying until September so I could help out with the whole project).
Also, when I say “Guess what!?!?! I volunteered to help build a troll!!!!!!” It is *not* a euphemism (as one dear friend thought), but is in fact, the legit truth.
Stay Tuned!
PS – I promise, with future posts, to include photos of MBH and the oldest.
I cannot promise, however, that the oldest will not be glaring.
Because she most definitely will be. She gets SO annoyed with her mother (me) always taking surreptitious photos…
Whatevs, she’ll be grateful for them in at least 20 years, maybe sooner. And it’s totally ok by me if she never admits it out loud…
PPPPPPPPPS: If you’re curious to see where Thomas Dambo’s trolls are located around the world, here is the map (just keep clicking)…
So, per the usual, it has been a long long while (might be up to months now) since I wrote my last post. But that of course hasn’t stopped me from dreaming up topics and *thinking* about posting. And taking plenty of pictures.
But now that we are on Day 6 since schools and universities were shut down, Day 4 since Denmark closed its borders and Day 1 of the Danish government taking even more drastic action to slow the spread of CoronaVirus.
As of last night (March 17th) in Denmark,
All shops except groceries and pharmacies will be shut down through March 30th,
I’m going to see if I can do a quick blog post (start to finish in less than 4 hours – they usually take me between 8 and 10 hours) just as a quick update to friends and family about how we’re doing, what we’ve been up to, and life in Copenhagen.
Most of you know I have the gift of gab and could turn any one of the below pictures into a post all by itself .
But I’m going to give brevity a go.
I will also be ok with failure.
First, misc pictures of the fam.
OMG OMG OMG The sun!
The Murals of Nordvest
My friend Jessica learned about this really cool area of Copenhagen with huge murals on the side of apartment buildings and invited me along to check it out the week before CV ramped up in Denmark (30 cases to more than 500 in 3 days, now we’re up to close to 1000 positive cases 9 days after it was only 30 cases) Two streets worth of murals.
Below are a few (not all!) of these bright and colorful murals.
Not going to lie. The new permit photo is far better than my old one.
And in case you forgot, here you go
Life during corona virus
Ok. that’s all for today’s post! You decide if I achieved my goal of brevity. It only take me about 4 hours…
** I published this before spending much (any) time on editing (not really recommended) and have added some post-publishing edits and comments and embellishing, marked with two stars. **
**Not to put a spoiler alert at the beginning of post in case someone wants skip all my stream of consciousness writing and random pictures, but one friend said she was kind of worried and kept in suspense about my possibly having Deep Vein Thrombosis -because she knew someone who did – and it is a life-threatening and really serious condition. So I’ll share now that
**I did *not* have Deep Vein Thrombosis. Turns out I spent slightly more than half a day in the (easy, streamlined, professional, assuring, effective, and efficient) Danish Healthcare System, all to be diagnosed with a left calf strain/tear.
**So here’s my post about how I spent my Friday, February 7th.
About 10 days ago (right around the time I picked my run/walk training back up after a 4 week hiatus), I developed pain in my left calf (actually, both calves, but it was worse in the left one).
Like any non-hypochondriac, used to the catastrophically expensive US healthcare system, I didn’t immediately consult the web. I just stretched, rolled it out on my fabulous foam roller (that I credit with healing my years-long case of plantar fasciitis. Thank you forever Lisa M for that recommendation).
And then the next day, I did a sprint workout.
And the day after the sprint workout, I was feeling so good, I went and climbed up and down stairs for 20 minutes, at the place in Copenhagen with the most number of stairs (yes, googled “where are there good stairs to run in Copenhagen?”(#10 on the list). It’s 3.3km from where we live so that day I *walked* there and back. I needed to take it a little easy and not over do it.
Then the day after that, I thought it would be a good idea to go ahead and do a “long walk/run” (long for me – 4 miles – running 6 min on 1 min off. I’m determined to do a 1/2 ironman before I’m 50 and at my current injury rate it’ll take me the next 8 years to get ready for it, so I’m not wasting any time.
and THEN, because I was feeling SO GOOD (and also possibly because I gained a bit of weight during our travels to Italy, Munich, French Alps, and Rome between December 14th and January 25th and am trying to shed those extra pounds), I thought “why don’t I just jog on over to the Luders Running Stairs, and do one or 2, 6 minute intervals jogging up and down the stairs as part of my walk/run workout?” And then jog on home?” So I did. But my calf was still feeling a bit tight and sore. So,
I took a rest day.
And the next day, decided to jog back to the Luders running stairs, walk up and down those stairs for 30 minutes (137 steps up each time) and then jog home again. And in case you’re wondering, that was 1233 steps up and 1233 steps down. And for me, going down takes as long as going up because I have visions of stumbling and falling All.The.Way.Down. so I take my time.
Incidentally, one of those days I spent at the stairs was a rare and gloriously sunny day.
This whole time my left calf was staying tight. Right calf, hips, back, quads, gluts, IT band, knees, the things that have been injured on and off the last few years, were all feeling good. I have been SO DILIGENT and CONSISTENT about warming up and warming down (**except maybe after one or two workouts), stretching, and using my foam roller daily. Incidentally, never in my life have I had to spend MORE TIME warming up and warming down than actually working out.
But *sigh* then I remember that I am in my 40s (EARLY, for anyone wondering) now, and my body is enjoying reminding me of this.
**MBH is having similar muscle aches and pains challenges and wondered out loud a few weeks ago “So I wonder why that is?” Me: “Your telomeres are getting shorter” No idea if that’s true but I thought it sounded smart.**
Anyhow, the foam rolling and stretching was just not working for my left calf.
So I decided I should take a rest day. Which was yesterday, Thursday, February 7.
**Actually, Thursday was February 6th. Credit to Lisa M, my copy editor, for the catch.**
And it was SUNNY.
And I needed to hit my 12,000 step goal.
So I went out for a walk.
Some of you may recall that the determining factor for where I go for a long bike ride, is the wind direction. And after studying 8 weather apps, I plot my bike route to ensure I have:
A tail wind the whole way, and,
A train station at the end of the ride. So I can bike a lovely 20, 25, 30, etc miles with some help from the wind, and then take the train home. Judge all you want. ONE time I biked 25 miles with a 15 mph headwind and it pissed me off so much, I will NEVER do that again.
Well, because it’s been so wet and rainy since September, I have not been for a single bike ride (Sad, I know 🙁 ) But I do walk. A whole lot. 30 to 45 miles a week.
**Post-publishing I actually calculated these numbers and realized the “45 miles” is a bit of an exaggeration. Maybe once or twice in the last 6 months have I actually walked/run 45 miles in one week. These days I run 6 – 9 miles and walk 20 to 25 miles a week.**
And now that we’re starting to see the sun once every 2 weeks, I plot my walking routes much like I plot my biking routes – except in this case I just follow the sun. And I consult google maps to make sure I’m not too far astray from a train or metro or bus line, and when I’m ready to go home, I just hop on one of those 3 public transport options with my handy -dandy personal Rejsekort card.
So I’ve digressed a wee bit. But I’m getting to the hypochondriac piece. Promise.
So, I’ve had this tight calf after 7 to 10 days of fairly rigorous (for me, anyway) exercise after a 4 week holiday hiatus.
Rolling isn’t working. Stretching isn’t working. Something is wrong. My rest day (where I walked 6.6 miles – but remember, it’s FLAT. THERE ARE NO HILLS WITHIN A 1000km RADIUS OF THIS COUNTRY. I HAVE LOOKED AT ALL THE TOPO MAPS. I DID NOT GO TO THE LUDENS RUNNING STAIRS) DIDN’T MAKE MY CALF FEEL BETTER.
It was time to consult the internet.
Which is what I started doing this morning (Friday, 2/7/2020).
Then I looked at my left calf, and detected a very slight discoloration in the area where I felt pain. So I asked MBH. He couldn’t see any discoloration at all. But *I* saw it, and was 100% convinced of the slight discoloration (could have also been the lighting) of my left calf.
At 8:00am after everyone had left – MBH for work and the youngest and the eldest for school, I did what any health-conscious person would do, and I googled “calf pain.”
And by 8:15am, I had sent a sheepish yet also anxious google chat message to my friend Svanhildur “um, I think I might have Deep Tissue Thrombosis in my left calf, that could cause my death. I have zero risk factors, and I might have run kind of vigorously this past week, so it *could* be a calf strain. But it could also be life-threatening. I could die, like, in the next hour. Should I go see my doctor?”
And what proceeded was a 90 minute google chat with Svanhildur (God Bless her) where we went back and forth about my left calf pain being the life-threatening condition of Deep Vein Thrombosis or a simple calf muscle strain/tear.
I’ll also add that at some point during this chat,(I’d still been googling “calf pain” and “DVT”) I came to the understanding (logically, but not emotionally) that I have zero risk factors (except the overweight bit, and ONE website said being over the age of 40 was a risk factor) for DVT.
I only realized two days ago that I must now say I’m in my *early 40s.* And have a birthday coming up in less than 2 months. Egads. How did THAT happen??!??!!?
But in fact, my fairly active lifestyle (**walking/running 25 – 35 miles a week, not on birth control or other forms of hormones, non-smoker, not obese (a bit overweight, though), no recent long flights or drives, not pregnant, not immediately post partum, not recovering from surgery, not recovering from cancer treatment, no prolonged bed-rest) puts me in the category of “least likely to have DVT.”
And all that vigorous exercise after a 4 week hiatus ( did I mention there were a couple of days when I didn’t stretch or warm down at all? I just remembered) put me in the category of “most likely to have a calf strain.”
But there was still the “family history” risk factor. Which I didn’t know. We’ve got some heart and cancer and Alzheimer’s and blood pressure and a few other health issues in my family. I just wasn’t sure about blood clotting.
But by this time I was thinking “probably all those other health issues means we probably have blood clotting issues too.” I was also thinking “I really love my red wine, could that be a risk factor? Surely one website, somewhere, in Russia, says drinking red wine is a risk factor for DVT.”
Oh internet, how you enable hypochondria….
And although 9:30am in Copenhagen is 3:30am EST, I thought “I’ll just text my favorite youngest sister (who is trained as a nurse), she might be up. She’ll know.” (And for those who don’t know, I also have a favorite middle sister. Her name is Julia and she’s an incredible and amazing special Ed pre-school teacher in SC). So I texted Conoly (favorite youngest sister).
Meanwhile, Svanhildur had convinced me that I should definitely go to my doctor, who has walk-in hours from 11am – noon M-F.
To be fair, I had not shared all the details about my running and stair climbing and possibly not always stretching, with her. Because to be perfectly honest, by this point I was so convinced I might have DVT, I had suppressed all memories of the prior week’s somewhat vigorous, and calf-strain-inducing exercise. I had convinced myself that I had DVT.
So I sent a last-minute regret to my lovely French conversation group that was meeting at 10am.
Kept googling “DVT.”
Stopped googling “DVT” after Svanhildur yelled at me through google chat. (messages in all caps)
I closed all my *symptoms of DVT” browsers, I swear.
And left for my doctors office at 10:37am. I had no idea how walk in hours worked, as I’d never used them before. Figured I’d better be early. And I was. Via Bike (7 minutes). I was 15 minutes early, but checked in with my fabulous Danish CPR (health) card via a machine….(CPR number is basically the equivalent of a Social Security Number)
And sat down to wait. In the waiting room there was some coughing and sniffling and hand-to-toddler-forehead motions, so of course I was thinking “I probably don’t have DVT, but am going to catch either the flu or Corona virus because of my hypochondria today. Awesome.”
11:00 AM on the dot, my doctor pops her head out and calls my name.
My doctor was great and did a quick, but thorough exam, and basically came to the same conclusion I had – I’m at very very low risk of DVT, but was symptomatic enough (calf pain) to warrant a more definitive test for DVT. Ultrasound is the #1 diagnostic tool, but there’s also a blood test for a protein that is elevated during a clot, and it can only be done at a hospital.
**My friend Robbyn, a physician, after graciously taking the time to read this post, sent me these two links:
**AND, dear readers, turns out the decisions made yesterday were exactly the right ones. I scored a *1* on the DVT Wells Criteria Test at my doctor’s office (localized tenderness along deep venous system – it wasn’t 100% definitive but enough tenderness there, the doc ordered further evaluation).
**And according to the “next steps,” that score warrants a D-dimer test (the blood test I got at the hospital). And my blood tests were perfectly normal, so my risk of DVT was then and only then deemed <1%. So to reiterate, I did *not* end up having Deep Vein Thrombosis.**
**So back to being at my doctor’s office.**
She called the hospital while I was in her office and wrote down the instructions for me to get there. I’ll just take a moment here to thank the stars, heavens, God, and Jesus that most all Danes in Copenhagen speak excellent English. Otherwise I might still be wandering around downtown Copenhagen looking for Bispebjerg Hospital (located in a nearby suburb).
I will also put in another plug for the Danish healthcare system. I was very impressed and grateful for it.
So I google how to get to the hospital. It’s either 14 minutes by bike, 41 minutes walking, or 20 minutes via public transport. I had biked to my doctors office (7 min) and was feeling super lazy about biking 14 min to the hospital. Our apartment was halfway between the doc’s office and the hospital….Plus, I should minimize vigorous exercise (biking) because it might lead to a deadly pulmonary embolism….But walking would be totally fine, of course.
So I biked 6 minutes to the bus stop nearest our apartment, locked my bike there, hopped the #12 bus, missed the nearest-to-hospital bus stop (because of my own arrogance and thinking google maps was wrong about the bus route) and walked 18 minutes to the part of Bispebjerg Hospital google was directing me to.
**A dedicated reader (Lisa) asked to see more of the raincoat. So here it is. Bonus, me in slippers with our messy kitchen in the background…
Ok, once again I’ve digressed. Back to the post…**
I’ll also add that this whole time, because my doctor had validated my “very low risk, but enough risk, of DVT, to warrant more testing,” I’m biking and on the bus, and walking, and thinking “I have DVT, I can feel it throbbing, and the blood clot is going to break up any second, and I’m going to have a Pulmonary Embolism. Right Now.”
**If my internet searches had led to the PERC Rules For Pulmonary Embolism, I probably would have been a bit calmer about my risk of this happening. My score was/is Zero.**
So I get to this entrance to the hospital and realize rather soon thereafter (as soon as I walk through that arch) that the complex is HUGE and I start following signs to the place my doctor had written down. It took another 15 minutes to find the building I needed to go to, and the throbbing in my calf was growing, and I had increasingly vivid visions of me collapsing from a pulmonary embolism. It’s ok. You can go ahead and laugh at me. I am.
But I comforted myself by thinking “It’s ok, you’re at the hospital now, you have your national health card on you, if you have a pulmonary embolism, you’ll be close to help and will have a greater-than-average-chance of not-dying…” Also, because we are in a country with socialized medicine, it won’t bankrupt us!!
I finally arrived at my floor/area and asked the first nurse-looking person I saw (white scrubs with a name tag, talking to a person that looked like a patient. He said something in Danish. I replied, apologetically with (what I hope is always) a winsome smile “I’m sorry, I don’t speak Danish.”
He switched to English immediately (one reason it’s impossible to learn Danish in Copenhagen – Danes speak wonderful English and just ain’t got time or patience for non-Danes trying to learn their language) and directed me to the sign (I should have taken a picture and I didn’t) down the hallway.
I walked to that sign, poked my head in the doorway, saw it was a room with a number of desks, chairs, and computers, with one harried looking staff person right in the doorway. She said something to me in Danish. I replied (same winsome smile and apologetic tone “I’m sorry, I don’t speak Danish.”)
She replied in English (kindly, with an arm full of stuff) “What is your name? How can I help you?”
I said “my doctor sent me for an ultrasound, pain in my left calf.” She said “Do you have your CPR card?” I showed her, she said “ok, Cornelia Ellefson (everyone in Nordic countries pronounce it “A [hard A, like *ale*] -lef-son – that is how it’s pronounced in Norway, where the name originates from”) Kelley. Got it. Thank you! Just have a seat…” then she waved kind of down the hallway.
At one end of the hallway there was one table with 3 chairs. But there was also another little area with 5 tables, a few chairs, all tables filled with what I thought were patients being served lunch. It did not look like a reception area. It looked more like the patient lunchroom.
So I went to the end of the hall to wait. And I waited about an hour. gchatting on my phone with my favorite youngest sister, Conoly, who was now awake….(and shared that we had zero family history for blood clotting issues which took my risk factor of DVT to below zero).
But as I’m engrossed in my phone, I was also kind of like “hm, did they get my name? Am I in the right place? Where is reception? The staff person read my name off my CPR card but I don’t remember seeing her do anything with it. Do they know I’m here? Do they even have reception here?” These are all the thoughts running through my head.
So I left the spot at the end of the hallway and went to stand in the little area with the 5 tables and chairs. (All the chairs were full of folks being fed their lunch). And I just kind of stood there, on my phone, hoping someone would notice me there and ask me what I was doing…Otherwise I was going to wait until after lunch was over and cleared away and then I was going to just stop someone with a hospital badge.
So I waited for about 30 minutes, and the kind lunch lady finally asked (first in Danish, then in English) “Do you need any help?” And I said (with much relief, thinking “someone’s talking to me, yay!!!) “I’m here for an ultrasound for my calf, my doctor sent me.” She asked “have you checked in with our staff? And waved to the one room I’d stopped by earlier. “Oh yes, I stopped by there earlier.” She asked “and they got your name?” Me “yes, she looked at my CPR card” She said “ok, good, just wait here, then.”
**Then, “would you like some food?” Me, thinking “wait, what? What universe is this in, I’m not a patient but am being offered a free lunch? Where am I again?”**
And I’m also thinking “ok, confirmation 2 that I’m doing the things I need to be doing to be seen.”
Meanwhile, it’s clear this floor is definitely a patient floor, patients are walking up and down the hallway, with their IV bags, and I’m kind of standing around in the middle of it thinking, “I hope I”m in the right place. My left calf sure is throbbing now…At least if I throw the clot and have a pulmonary embolism I’ll get help right away and will probably not die permanently. I’ll be resuscitated!!!”
I had also updated my phone by this point to list MBH as “emergency contact.” **Prior to me reading too many websites about death from calf pain, I’d had zero emergency contacts in my phone. No time like waiting time in a hospital to update this. And I encourage anyone who doesn’t have an emergency contact list in your phone, to create one.**
I found a free chair in the small table-filled area and sat down. There was one guy, an elderly Dane (maybe 65/70) who was striking up conversation with anyone and everyone. He seems really friendly, but as I have become quite anti-social in my middle-age, I was just hoping he’d not try to talk to me. I really didn’t feel like engaging in small talk. I figured my not-speaking Danish would help my case, but then I heard him speak English [perfect with a Danish accent] and thought “ok, I must not make eye contact, I must not make eye contact, I must type on my phone continuously. This facebook post/share is critically important to world peace…”
Meanwhile, I look up to see a guy dressed in a sweater and threadbare white skivvies, with an IV bag/pole walking past the 5-table area (at first I assumed it was the cafeteria area, I came to realize it was likely reception)…He was getting his steps in! Dressed in a sweater and skivvies. Danes just don’t care about showing some skin and I have to say I admire and envy this.
At this point I was resigned to the fact that there is some system happening and I am just utterly clueless as to what it is and I will eventually be evaluated for DVT and I just have to trust the 4 people who have told me I’m doing the right thing and I’m in the right place and I need to CHILL. AND, BONUS, if I am to throw a clot and have a pulmonary embolism, again, I’m in the right place and have a fairly good chance of living to see tomorrow.
So I scroll NYTimes.com, Washingtonpost.com, slate.com, sighthoundunderground.org ( I miss my greyhounds so much and take great comfort in the fact that they are being very well cared for by my favorite youngest sister, West Point Grad BIL, and niece), my FB feed, chat with my favorite youngest sister, chat with Svanhildur, look up, and see Mr. Skivvies walk past again…Bless his heart….
Then my name is called!!!! yay!!!!!!!!!!!! Confirmation they know I’m here!!!! woohooo!!!!
And a lovely and kind nurse proceeds to ensure all my personal information is accurate. She then takes a few test tubes of my blood. I do not like having my blood drawn, but work hard to tap into my ability to take slow deep breaths. As a result, I don’t break out into a cold sweat or pass out while 3 test tubes of my blood get drawn.
She then tells me I should get up, get a cup of coffee, walk around, they are quite busy today and I should settle in, it’s going to be awhile. This makes me chuckle and I’m grateful she told me. I went to get a diet coke and some peanuts (it’s close to 2:30 pm and I hadn’t eaten since breakfast. I should have accepted the offer of food from the nurse…
Then realize there is complimentary tea and coffee and water in the hallway of the floor where I’m waiting to get an ultrasound for (what I have convinced myself by now is) DVT.
It’s another hour or so, when another woman in a lab coat calls my name. “A-lef-son?” “Cor-ne-l-i-a?”
**My Irish [married] last name sometimes gets dropped in Denmark, apparently. That’s cool. Always happy and proud to claim my Norwegian roots, but especially fun and gratifying to do so while living in Scandinavia.
Turns out, she was the doctor. And she spends a good 20 minutes with me, and in hindsight, I am very grateful she didn’t spend the whole time just laughing at me and my foolish-internet-induced-anxiety-about-having-DVT. She was very thoughtful, and thorough and direct “I am 100% confident you do not have DVT. I am near 100% certain what you have is a calf-strain and not DVT.” We went down the whole list of risk factors again. Zero. Zilch, for me.
The one piece of additional information added to this whole internet-caused-hypochondriac drama-regarding-life-threatening-calf-pain was bloodwork. There is a protein that is elevated with blood clots – but the doc said all my blood work came back 100% normal (the word *perfect* keeps coming to my mind, but I don’t think she actually used that word. I’m just projecting.)
So given the bloodwork, my recent running, the utter lack of risk factors, she concluded, and kindly told me, that I have a calf strain/tear. And that I could probably still run – but just pain attention to pain and stop/rest if it gets worse.
Did I need to check out? Get a bill?
No. She would tell the nurses I was checking out, and if I had chest pains or trouble breathing or other symptoms this weekend, I needed to call the emergency number.
No bill. We are 100% covered with our health card.
**And yes, we pay higher taxes in Denmark (the research scientist rate, though, not the full Danish Citizen Rate, because we will also pay taxes in the US) but I am happy to pay those taxes for such high quality health care coverage for myself and the rest of the country. Denmark does not have tens of thousands of deaths annually caused my lack of access to health care. The US does. We must do better. **
So I headed home.
And on my walk home, I took many deep breaths and I was able to [more objectively] think through the last 10 days or so of my workouts. And laugh at how worried I was about DVT. And feel quite sheepish at my getting worked up over this.
I was home by 4:30.
If I’m going to be completely honest I would say I just wanted to justify going to see medical professionals to rule out DVT. To continue in this vein of honesty, I’m also glad I took the time to get it checked out. Now I can enjoy my weekend and breathe a whole lot easier.
**If I were to do it over again, I’d still go get checked out. DVT is absolutely serious enough to warrant it.
**Also, after re-reading this post, I realized that my flippant and sarcastic commentary about DVT could come across as making light of the condition. I am not at all. It is a serious and life-threatening condition – which is why all the websites say “if you suspect you have DVT, see your doctor immediately.”
My flippancy and sarcasm is 100% self-directed – because of the panicky thoughts running through my head and because of my inability to think at all rationally about my calf pain once I started reading that it could possibly be life-threatening.
Throughout the day, the likelihood my calf pain was due to DVT went from “very low to less than 0” but after reading about calf pain on the internet for a few hours, I had convinced myself I had it.**
Huge props to my favorite youngest sister Conoly for suggesting I write a blog post about this. I otherwise would have simply added it to my increasingly longer list of “future blog posts” that have an approximately 1 in 100 chance of getting written…
And just for more fun, and for those who read all the way to the end of the post. and for everyone very tired of all the selfies of just me (Like I am), here are a few pictures from our trip to Rome two weeks ago.
Infinity thumbs up for the Bavarian Alps. Even though getting into the parking lot (the last mile) added 45 minutes to the drive. Even though the lift ticket line was pretty long (but ski rental line was short and moved fast). Even though Germans (many Europeans?) don’t know (or simply don’t care) about forming nice orderly lines to get on Gondolas and ski lifts so elbows get thrown, you get pretty jostled and if there is even 1mm of space around you/your skis, someone is going to move in. In spite of all these things, the Bavarian Alps are an incredible place to ski. Words cannot express how grateful I am to have had the opportunity to experience it.
I’ll back up just a bit since it’s been ages since I wrote a post -not that I don’t think about it constantly as I’ve mentioned before. But I think I’ve taken close to 1500 pictures in the last 6 weeks and every time I sit down to write the post about one day (usually a day with 100 photos) my progress gets halted by thoughts along the lines of “NO ONE is going to read a blog post with 100 pictures” Lucky for all of us, I only took 47 pictures on trip to ski in the Bavarian Alps.
I am tracking the posts I *intend* to write and one gets added to the list every day. Sometimes two get added. For example, we visited Mt. Vesuvius and Herculaneum in one day during our trip to Southern Italy before Christmas and although many may disagree, I feel both of those visits deserve their own post. But seeing as how each place had 100 photos, your guess is as good as mine as to when I’ll muster up the discipline to do it.
I am posting on my FB page pretty regularly so if we are not facebook friends and you’d like to be, please send me a friend request!
After Christmas we visited our dear friends, Svanhildur and Thor and their two daughters. They are from Iceland and lived one door down from us in Rochester before they moved to Munich, Germany 2.5 years ago. Our oldest and youngest are also good friends with their oldest, so it’s quite wonderful when we can get together. They visited us in early November. It was a grand time and added about 10 *posts to write* to my list.
They invited us to visit over New Years and round trip train tickets were quite inexpensive (not to mention a great way to travel) so off we went!
They are wonderful hosts and planned out a fantastic week. I am hoping to write a post about each day, but in summary we:
toured downtown Munich
celebrated New Year’s Eve with a traditional Icelandic meal (smoked lamb, potatoes in a delicious cream sauce, a purple cabbage dish, and green peas with bacon),
had fun with fireworks. I’m not gonna lie, fireworks make me very very nervous – so I didn’t do anything with the fireworks. I stood far away from the action and just reminded everyone every 3 minutes how dangerous fireworks are and that they need to exercise extreme caution.
rounded off the week with a trip to a pool for some swimming.
Also, it was marvelously sunny the whole time we were in Bavaria. My kind of weather – chilly and sunny. Not normal-chilly for Bavaria, much warmer than that, unfortunately. But in the 30s/40s (F). And sunny (there’s not been sun in Copenhagen for 2 weeks and none expected for another 2 weeks 🙁 )
There were lots of options for ski areas – a few that were within an hour’s drive – but we decided on this one because Svanhildur (expert skier) said that last year they had gone to different places for a week, skied the last day at this particular spot and had such a fantastic time, her comment was “oh I wish we’d skied here the whole week!” To us, that was a ringing endorsement.
The parking lot/mountain base we were headed to was an hour and a half away and lifts opened at 8:30am. So the majority of our group (87%) voted to leave at 7am. I was not in the majority, but decided it was better to not block the decision. We hadn’t exactly decided on a group decision making process anyway. And if I’m going to be perfectly honest, I was *ok* with leaving at 7.
Our family of 4 ended up leaving at 0705 and Svanhildur, Thor and co ended up leaving about 30 minutes later. They have most of their own gear and a 6yo, so getting everything takes longer.
And as soon as the mountains (and sunrise) came into view, I started taking pictures. I have loved the mountains (preferring them to the ocean) since at least high school, so forgive me for the possibly-not-best quality photos from the car.
Although google maps told us the drive would take less than 90 minutes, turns out the rest of Germany had decided to go to this ski area (and this particular parking spot of the ski area) that morning too, so we hit bumper to bumper traffic about 2km from the parking lot.
It took us another 45 minutes to park.
One of my New Year’s resolutions is to tamp down on my [too often completely unjustified] irritability and anxiousness about things not going exactly according to plan (it’s particularly bad during traveling and in traffic).
So I had the opportunity to practice my *do not be a complete jerk* techniques as we inched along at 1km/hour towards the parking lot.
Deep breathing, and the mantra “It will be ok it will be ok. this *really* is sweating the small stuff…it will be ok it will be ok.” I think it worked, but have not asked those around me for their opinion on the matter.
This ski area has 3 different parking lots. One in Germany, one in Austria, and I can’t remember where the 3rd one was.
The deal is, you park, get your equipment (if you need to rent anything), buy your lift ticket, get in line, and scan the ticket at the turnstyle (they do not attach to your jackets but can be read through the outer pocket of a coat) and take the gondola up the mountain to the ski area.
We parked in the Winklmoosalmbahn gondola parking area. And no, I cannot pronounce that word. Fortunately, that is not a requirement for getting on the gondola.
Even though traffic to get into the lot was really bad, the crowds at the bottom of the mountain looked over whelming, and the chair lift lines seemed long, once we were on the mountain, we never waited more than 5 or 7 minutes to get on the lifts. And most of the the slopes are long and wide so it did not feel nearly as crowded.
And the lifts are super fast too.
And ALL the lifts had a bar to rest your skis on – a luxury not found in many East coast ski resorts.
When MBH went looking through all the photos we’ve taken this last year for the 2019 Christmas Card, out of the thousands of photographs taken, would you like to guess how many had all 4 of us in them?
Three.
Three family photos in 2019. And out of those 3, approximately zero were ones we were all happy with.
Ugh. Key learning for the year. Take more photos will all 4 of us.
An aside. If you’re not on our Christmas card list and would like to be, please email me with your home address. neely.kelley@gmail.com.
We had to send them by direct mail order service this year so are now sending 2019’s card via email. But for next year’s card you’ll be on the list for a hard copy!
And just for fun, I added the picture of 2019’s card at the end of this post.
Here is attempt #1 for a 2020 family photo.
So we skied down to a lunch spot.
You may have been wondering at this point “so what happened to Svanhildur, Thor and co?!?!?! By 1pm we weren’t sure. Our cell service had stopped working about 45 minutes before we got to the mountain road traffic jam – long before we got into the parking lot.
Also, our phones were super confused. Every 30 minutes we kept getting simultaneous messages from our cell carrier “Welcome to Germany!” “Welcome to Austria!”
All day long.
Like the cell towers in the two countries were fighting for us to use *their* tower.
With the end result that neither country’s cell tower had the honor of doing so. And so we couldn’t communicate with each other or with Svanhildur and Thor.
HOWEVER, at 2pm we saw them!!!! And here’s the photo to prove it!
Because we didn’t have cell service, we had just agreed to all meet back at the car after the lifts closed down at 4pm. There were two ways to get back to the car: Ski all the way down (blue all the way) or take the gondola.
I had forgotten this and had it in my head that the only way to get down was by the gondola and it closed at 4:30.
So when we got there at 4:00, this is the sight that greeted us:
So to pass the time, I asked the youngest if she’d smile and give a thumbs up for the ski day.
This was her response:
I really really wish I’d thought to look at the map to ski down instead of wait in this line.
MBH and the eldest did do this and reported that it took about 45 minutes through beautiful, quiet, woods with hardly any other skiers.
Of course not, they were all crowding around the gondola.
We made it on the gondola and given spirits were quite high, I asked the youngest if she would give me the kind of glare she was giving me earlier in the day when she didn’t want to wear her helmet.
I’d had a bit of mercy on her and didn’t try and capture her behavior and mood (except for the one family photo).
This was her response:
So all in all an amazing day skiing in the Bavarian Alps. Although we had hoped we’d be able to ski for at least 2 days on our trip to Munich, one day was perfect for our trip. And of course it makes me want to move here and stay permanently. Pretty much everywhere I’ve ever visited becomes a place I dream about moving to and staying permanently. And I can enjoy just dreaming about it.
The youngest has joined the local troop of Boy Scouts of America International and this past weekend the troop went camping. Other troop leaders couldn’t stay the full 2 nights, so MBH (My Beloved Husband)and I signed up to go. I was going anyway, because Boy Scout policy says any time there is a female troop member, an adult female must also be present.
The oldest, upon realizing she might have to go camping, – as quickly as she could – found a friend whose parents agreed to let her stay with them the weekend. She and her friend even got to go to a pop concert by themselves in Freetown Christiana Saturday night.
As for the rest of us…
We had intentionally left all our camping gear in Rochester – I shudder to think what it would have cost us in excess baggage to bring it all.
So I sent out a plea to parents in the troop and other parents I know asking if anyone had sleeping bags and mats we could borrow.
The troop had tents, cooking equipment, other camping gear.
Deepest gratitude to the Chris, Jennifer, Ros, Luke, Corina, Steve, Gregor, and Brady for loaning us sleeping gear.
When we planned transportation to get to the campsite, we thought we only had one car and not all 8 people + gear would fit.
So the plan was to put as much gear as we could in the car, and then take the train and a bus (and then a short walk) to the campsite.
MBH, the youngest, and I had about a 6 minute bike ride to the meet up station.
So we packed up the bikes.
An hour or so before we were to meet up, I had gotten an email from a dad of one of the troop members and while the dad himself was not going camping, he very kindly offered to drive whomever needed it. I have to say, thank the stars and heavens.
Because if we had had to find our way to the campsite in the dark, from the bus stop, it would have taken us hoursand hours. It took us at least 15 extra minutes just to find the parking lot. The few minutes (maybe 10-15) after we parked the car, and wandered around the site looking for our campsite, wondering if we were even in the right place, were sufficiently worried-filled (at least for me – I cannot speak for others – but as many of you know I’m quite and anxious traveler, even if it’s camping 30 minutes away from Copenhagen). It was cold, 100% dark, and foggy.
BUT! we found it!! YAY!
While the scouts were building the fire, cooking dinner, setting up the campsite, I wandered around a bit (I was a few thousand steps short of my daily 10,000 steps goal). And saw this curious tree, that had stuff hung all over it. Pacifiers, some ribbons, a lot of plastic. I had seen a tree like this before and because this one had a sign “Suttetrae” with a description, and I had a bit of time on my hands, I took a picture, then googled it. Google comes through 98% of the time and I swear will own us all one day. Anyhow, here is what the wikipedia page shared:
Suttetrae – A teat tree. “A teat tree is a tree on which children hang their teats when they have grown from them or when their parents and educators like to see the children grow from their teats.”
We were all in our sleeping bags by about 8:30pm.
Some took our time getting out of them in the next AM. It was quite cold and this closer-to-middle-age-than-I’ve-ever-been-before-body just doesn’t take to camping sleeping pads like it once did.
Gregor, the troop’s chef, and a very good one at that, was up at 6:30am [still dark!] to get the coffee, bacon, and eggs started and ready by the time everyone else was up.
Unfortunately, the stove did not cooperate right away, so he cooked in the daylight.
And had some moral support.
After breakfast, it was time to light the fire.
A few (who shall remain nameless) went to look for firewood [all wood around us was super wet] and came back with a wheelbarrow about half full.
They told us they found a lovely supply of firewood underneath the “Insekthotel.”
It struck us a bit odd that that’s where they would keep extra firewood. But in any case, the scouts got the fire lit…It was cold, upper 30s [for the Americans reading this, 3C for everyone else].
A few folks [who shall remain nameless] went back to the Insekthotel to get more firewood, and came back to say that while the piles underneath the Insekthotel looked like they were just set up perfectly for campfires (kindling in the middle, split wood on the ground on the left), in fact, that material was insekt habitat.
However, the 2nd time around members of our group (who shall forever remain nameless) told us there was a Dane who set them straight on their error. And fussed at them to tell them that in fact, everything underneath the structure was *part of* the insekthotel, and what we had used for our fire was actually insekt habitat. Damn damn damn. So sorry little insects. And I mean this – no snark, no sarcasm. Insects around the world are in serious and significant decline and need all the help we can give them.
And while I admit I was relieved our somewhat open sleeping shelter had zero bugs (visible to my eye, anyway), it also had me thinking a whole lot about the impact humans are having on the natural world.
In any case, the actual firewood pile for campers was located and brought back to the campsite. In hindsight, maybe we should have added some split logs back to the habitat.
After collecting the firewood, and warming up a bit by the fire, the group headed out for a walk in the woods to explore the park.
We walked for about 45 minutes, early on passing another group of campers who told us that “over there a ways” there are the remnants of ancient viking burial site. We tried to find it, to no avail.
Three members of the group had to leave to get back to Copenhagen by 11:30 or so, but those of us who remained decided to keep walking.
We took a group photo before parting ways.
After wandering around a few trails in the woods for an hour or so, we headed back to the campsite.
There was this one place where the trail crossed a fairly busy 2-lane road. There was a path that went underneath the road with a sign with an arrow and a bike on it.
The group decided it was better to try and avoid the cars on the road than to try and avoid the cyclists on the path going under the road… Danish cyclists will run you over…
We got back and it was lunch time. But before lunch, we had to light the fire. Not only is a campfire fun and relaxing, it was also an important addition this weekend as it was cold, and damp [maybe I mentioned this once or twice or 1000X already? I think we are more obsessed with talk of the weather here than talk of the weather in upstate NY].
After fire starting and lunch, the scouts were looking for things to do.
Now it was time for some roof climbing shenanigans.
After lunch, MBH and I decided to go out for another walk. Given Danish weather, we’ve decided that if it’s not pouring, we are going to be outside – especially as daylight is disappearing fast.
So we headed out to explore the park and the forrest. Discovered lots of things – logging areas, old growth forrest, horseback riding trails, mountain (“mountain” is a bit of a stretch – more like off-road) biking trails, maple trees being tapped for syrup, frisbee golf course, a cut-your-own Christmas tree farm, and a very very cool playground.
Came to an area that had been logged, and young saplings were growing.
I assumed when we walked into that grove of pines, it would be another area being grown for logging. To our surprise we found it was actually quite old growth forrest. No underbrush at all.
Bright green moss everywhere. It was beautiful. In spite of the gray.
Made it back to the camp site, fairly close to the park’s very cool playground, with DRAGONS!
Of course this place doesn’t just have fun and games for children. It also includes a frisbee golf course!
Here’s one hole, in the middle of the Christmas tree farm.
The Christmas tree farm
After all this exploring (we covered 8 miles in all, on Saturday) we headed back to see what the scouts were up to.
Managing the campfire of course!
We went to bed fairly early, and while I have to say I was a bit worried the chattiness of everyone in the shelter (our group + the Danish teens) would go on all night, by 2055 everyone was quiet.
It poured rain all night – makes for lovely sleeping weather. Although I still think my days of sleeping comfortably on a camping mattress – no matter how thick and luxurious, are over.
We slept in a bit (7am) but Gregor started the bacon and eggs and coffee as soon as we woke up.
Conversation at breakfast was fun.
“So what is worst thing you’ve ever eaten?”
Gregor: “Kangaroo tail – served like steak, but tough.”
Stan: “Well, one day, some friends of mine and I just took a bunch of leftover meat in the fridge – bunch of different kinds of sausages, put them in a glass, poured in some milk and sugar and then blended it up like a milkshake.”
We immediately declared Stan the winner. And I am going to laugh [while holding back gagging] forever at this story…
Then it was time to pack up and head home. To get it all to the parking lot, we were most grateful for the wheelbarrow.
Stan’s dad Alex very generously picked us up on Sunday too. I shudder to think how we would have gotten back by bus and train. Well, the answer is, we likely would not have without recruiting a few sympathetic passengers to help us.
I was sorely tempted to take a long afternoon nap when we got home and had finished unpacking, but was then reminded of how little daylight we now have, so decided to have a cup of coffee and head out for a run (ok, ok, run/walk – working my way back up to “running”).
And on my way home, lo and behold I saw the sunset.
And just had to take a picture.
All in all a lovely weekend, exploring, observing, experiencing, and living. All things I’m really enjoying doing here in Denmark and hope to do more of when we move back to the U.S.
Our flight back to Copenhagen was at 2005 Sunday evening. So we had a full day to continue exploring Bergen. And after the wonderful hiking up to and past Mt. Floyen, on Friday, and after doing some reading, I really really wanted to hike to the top of Mt. Ulriken.
Mt. Ulriken is another highly recommended hike in Bergen and is considered the highest peak in the town.
And although I’ve already decided I’d be perfectly happy to retire to Bergen, I doubt we’ll be going back in the near future. So I wanted to make every effort to make the most of it.
The staff person at the Bergen Tourist Information center said ‘Oh, Ulriken, that’s a tough hike, real trails, not wide pavement.” She was clearly skeptical about my plans to get up and back in one morning.
So I became 100% committed right then and there.
The challenge was convincing the eldest and the youngest to also commit – and we were on a bit of a tight schedule Sunday morning:
Getting to the trail head would take about 25 minutes – walk to bus stop, bus ride, walk to trail head.
The hike would take anywhere from 1 – 3 hours.
I couldn’t be sure.
And we had to check out of our Airbnb by noon.
So we needed to be back by 1100 to shower and pack up.
So after pouring over the bus schedules – for some reason, google maps did not work with the public transportation system in Bergen.
So I had to take the olden-days approach:
download pdfs of the bus schedules
make sure the schedules I looked at were on Sunday and not M – F,
consult the light rail schedule,
understand the Mt. Ulriken cable car schedule (plan was to hike up and take the cable car down),
Repeat steps 1 – 4, approx. 10 x to get a full understanding of all the possibilities of timing and make contingency plans B, C, D, and F.
And after all this, I was still not sure that we could take the bus to the nearest bus stop, walk to the trail head, hike up Mt. Ulriken, take the cable car down, and then catch the bus back to the city center to get back to our Airbnb by 11am.
I knew we would need to leave quite early. Well, maybe we didn’t really need to, but that’s how I roll when I’m a traveler on a tight timeline.
It was not as hard to convince the girls we would need to get up at 6 and leave by 6:30am, to catch the 6:48am bus, so we could be sure to hike up and catch an early enough cable car down the mtn.
They were awesome sports about it.
Which I see as an indication of a) my persuasive abilities and b) (really just this) how much they like hiking.
I still cannot persuade them to go with me to the Louisiana Art Museum. “NO ART MUSEUMS THEY ARE BORING AND STUPID”
But hiking to the top of the highest peak in Bergen had appeal for sure.
I convinced the girls needed to get up by 6am and catch the 6:48 bus.
Well, the eldest actually said “Can you wake me up at 6am and I’ll decide then?”
I was 95% sure she’d get up and go with us. Even though she is very much a teenager when it comes to sleeping.
But I was counting on her FOMO overcoming her desire to sleep longer.
It wasn’t until I read that sunrise is actually at 0830 that I reconsidered the timing.
“Maaaaybe it’ll be better if we catch the 0748 bus.”
So we slept in until 0645
Left the apartment at 0730.
Even though the bus stop is only a 5 min walk, I had to stop on the way and buy the 24hr Bergen transportation card.
What if the machine on the way to the bus stop was broken?
And I had to find another machine to buy the card?
It was about this time that I got a text from our Airbnb host letting me know that because no one had booked the place for that night, we were welcome to stay there until 5pm.
That made our day so so much easier.
We wouldn’t have to worry about locking our bags at the train station.
We would also have enough time to visit the Aquarium.
And if we missed the 1034 bus we could just take the 1104 bus and have time for showers, etc.
Turns out the “off season” hours had started.
But this information hadn’t been posted anywhere.
And wasn’t on this door.
The mountain top staff arrived (by cable car of course) a few minutes later.
Thank goodness we didn’t leave at 6:30am and count on a 9am cable car ride.
It was cold and windy at the top and we would not have been able to wait until 10am for it.
We would have had to walk back down.
Which frankly I would have preferred to do but as the youngest rationalized:
“Walking back down will be tiring and terrifying.”
“Taking the swinging death trap will just be terrifying. So let’s do that.”
Ok. Fine.
My palms were so sweaty, my heart was racing.
I really really didn’t like being in that cable car.
None of us did.
Well, the two Norwegians standing at the front of the car were totally cool – opening the window, peering out the top, taking pictures, laughing and talking and enjoying themselves.
But 5 or 6 years ago, I learned my lesson of reassuring nervous children about things, the time we went to Niagara Falls and decided to take the Maid In the Mist boat trip underneath the falls.
The eldest (at that time maybe 8 yo) had developed a fear of boats (I only learned the reason for this later) and protested the whole way.
She kept saying “I don’t want to get on the boat. I want to see it first. I don’t like boats. I want to see it before I get on it.”
The way the Maid in the Mist on the American side is set up, it’s impossible to see the boat before you buy your ticket.
So like any loving and patient parent, I told her I’d already bought her ticket and she had to go with us.
Then I spent the next 10 minutes – as we made our way down the elevator, down the path, to the dock, saying “look, they’ve been doing the Maid in the Mist Tours for 60+ years, ~8 months a year, every 15 minutes, 10 hours a day. They know what they are doing. It’s going to be just fine. They know what they are doing.”
So we get on the the boat and the eldest proceeded to go crouch on the floor next to the life vest chest and stay there. Her telling me how scared she was, me telling her it would be ok. That the Maid in The Mist folks were experienced boat operators.
I will take those words to my grave.
The engines cranked up, and the boat started to pull away from the dock.
And suddenly, there was this horrific clanging grinding metal-tearing-sound, lots of shouting and yelling and gasping.
And of course everyone on the boat (maybe 100 or 150 people – off season – and it was a chilly October day) ran to one side of the boat.
And I thought “Oh shit, what just happened?”
Oh. They’d just forgotten to UNHOOK THE GANGPLANKS.
BOTH OF THEM.
One gangplank got pulled off the boat, dropped in the water and sank.
One passenger commented “Well somebody’s gonna get fired.”
And at that point I was thinking “Well damn, did a hole just get put in the side of this boat? Is this boat going to capsize and I’m going to have to swim for it with my oldest and youngest children?”
Nope. Thank goodness.
The tour continued. The eldest stayed crouched on the floor. But when we got back to the dock we only had one gangplank.
And this may be the reason the eldest has a few trust issues with me.
In any case, never again will I offer assurances of the skill and safety record and experience levels of tourist modes of transportation.
And all I could say last Sunday on the cable car was “I’m sure it will be fine.”
So we headed back.
To take showers, pack up, and head to the Bergen Aquarium.
If you read yesterday’s post (totally ok if you did not, I’m sure many took one skim and thought “TLDR.” ), you’ll know that MBH flew out bright and early Saturday morning.
So the day for the girls and I revolved around the fjord cruise. It was the one thing I had booked for us to do while in Bergen. And yes, it took me a long time [too long] to figure out which cruise to take. There’s so much information out there and lots of options.
I had settled on a 3 hour cruise, leaving at 2pm. And guess what travel error I almost made booking the cruise? (a couple of weeks before our trip)
Paying for TWO adults and 2 children. Gah.
Fortunately, because I have developed some intentional habits over the years, I stared at my order for a good while before realizing my mistake. And caught it before paying for a ticket for MBH who would be in Copenhagen at that time…
So the eldest and the youngest and I took it easy Saturday morning – recovering still from the 14 miles of hiking/walking we’d covered the day before.
Even though we took it easy Saturday morning, we had some time to explore some of Old Bergen, hoping to see at least one museum.
We decided to take a break at a recommended Baker Brun in Bryggen.
And started with a cinnamon roll and an almond biscotti while waiting for the coffee and hot chocolates.
And what hot chocolates they were!!!
Mom, I don’t like that picture. Let’s try again.
But first someone had to go to the bathroom. If you’ve traveled in Europe, public bathrooms can be hard to find. I figured there would be one near the tourist information center – Which was just 2 minutes away.
We saw signs for the bathroom.
But had to pay with credit card to use them/open the door.
Unless of course someone comes out of the stall, then you can just go in.
I did pay.
I live in Denmark now.
Following all rules is a requirement of Danish residency.
Even when I’m in Norway.
Picture taking commenced as we were leaving the harbor.
There’s one very narrow part on the fjord.
I didn’t get a good picture as we were passing through, but took this one looking back.
I’m very annoyed at the continued blurriness.
Day 2 in Bergen Norway was wonderful. We definitely missed MBH and wish he could have been with us.
One of the things we had planned to do while we’re in Copenhagen is travel and explore Europe as much as we can. The list of possible places to go has already far exceeded the time we have to do it.
I’m always asking friends and acquaintances what they recommend. And of course asking the girls and MBH what they are interested in. Amsterdam, [anywhere in] France, Iceland, the Balkans are all top of the list.
We also have a budget. Living in Copenhagen is quite expensive – although one huge relief is that we don’t have to worry about going in to debt from health care costs. And for me, the higher taxes (or, investment in the public good, which is what it is) are definitely worth that.
So when I got a notification from Norwegian air about “fall deals,” I excitedly looked for tickets to any of the above mentioned places during the 2nd weekend of the girls’ fall break. The first weekend we visited Legoland with friends who visited us from Rochester. It was also a fantastic weekend. I’ve got a lot of blog post catching up to do!
Anyhow, back to the looking at the “deals” offered by Norwegian air – only to find out that tickets to those places during the week that all Danish schools are closed, were still quite expensive.
Of course they were.
I was sure I could get a better deal, so I kept looking.
The place that had the least expensive tickets was Bergen, Norway.
And while Bergen wasn’t at the top of the list, I had asked friends who visited Norway this past summer – where they would recommend we go in Norway for hiking – and their recommendation had been Bergen (Thank you Lisa and Katie!)
So, I booked tickets for all 4 of us, only to go add this to our family calendar and see that MBH was scheduled to leave for an invited speaking gig in Dresden, Germany Sunday, early afternoon.
Dammit.
Fortunately, I had 4 hours to cancel the flights and get a full refund.
So I did.
Then rebooked the flights for the girls and I same as before, and booked a ticket for MBH for Thursday night to Saturday night. Departure time, 7pm – thinking, “Wonderful, we’ll have 2 full days in Bergen together. “
Or So I Thought.
I’d actually booked him on a 7am flight out of Bergen Saturday morning.
Dammit Dammit Dammit.
Stupid 24 Hour Clock!!!
Or should I say stupid US for not consistently using the 24 hour clock like the rest of the world.
I could also say “Neely, really, how long have you been traveling and known that air travel uses the 24hr clock?”
But I digress.
So when I saw 7:00 – 8:30, I immediately assumed 7pm. If only there had been a 0 in front of the 7 and the 8:30. I didn’t learn about this incorrect assumption until a week or two before our trip, so I couldn’t change it. These are the kinds of travel mistakes I make more often than I’d like to admit.
Next step was to find a place to stay. I did some research, and more research and finally booked our Airbnb right in the city center.
There were 3 options for getting to our Airbnb:
Light rail – $8 total – takes the longest – 50 minutes
Flybussen – $25 total – 30 minutes –
Taxi – ~$55 total- 20 minutes
After much consideration (waaaay too much, honestly), I decided Flybussen was the best option for us – because our flight was getting in at 11:15pm.
In spite of the fact that I lived in Central Africa as a Peace Corps Volunteer for more than two years (almost 20 years ago), have traveled a lot since I was 14 (Europe, West Africa, Central Africa and Southern Africa mostly), and traveled alone many of these times, I am a really anxious traveler.
Just ask MBH or my Peace Corps post-mate Laura…
All the more anxious when my teen and pre-teen are already off and on not always so happy about the move to Copenhagen, and not excited about this particular trip – as it was nowhere on their “list of places we want to travel to in Europe.”
In addition to that, the first thing Danes and Norwegians and others I talked to said when I told them we were traveling to Bergen was, eyebrows raised, “Bergen, the rainiest city in Norway.” “Oh, Bergen, it’s really rainy there.”
Great. We live in the rainiest and cloudiest European capital city, and I’ve planned a family trip of outdoors activities to the rainiest Norwegian city.
Spoiler alert, the weather was glorious and the trip was amazing.
The hiking was incredible, and morale 98% of the time we were there was higher than it’s been in a while. The 2% was after strenuous hiking- hungry, tired, hurting feet. Perfectly understandable.
So, back to my travel anxiousness. Things I get anxious about when planning travel:
Booking a place to stay in the wrong city.
Booking a place to stay on the wrong dates.
Booking mode of travel for the wrong dates.
Booking mode of travel to the wrong city (Rochester MN and Rochester NY have the SAME AIRPORT NAME).
I’ve made each and every one of the mistakes above more than once and I absolutely hate it when it happens and this has led to my developing a few travel OCD habits over the years.
Things I get anxious about when actually traveling:
Confusing AM and PM Time of Departure: Think 700 with 1900 or 630 with 1830
Arriving to airport early enough. My anxiety eases by arriving at least 3 hours early. For domestic flights. I know I know, this is really absurd, but like I said, I’m an anxious traveler. I can usually convince MBH and children to get there a little more than 2 hours early.
So for our 2155h flight, I convinced everyone to leave our apartment at 6:45pm. The 150S bus then Metro Line 2 to Kobenhavn Lufthavn. Takes about 40 minutes.
Getting from airport to the airbnb in Bergen and not missing the earliest Flybussen. We had to run a bit through the Bergen Airport, but made it to the 2330h bus. Which runs every 20 minutes. Not a big deal during normal waking hours, but that late at night it makes a huge difference.
Getting the key and getting to our Airbnb apartment. The host and I had swapped texts – there was a key lock box and he’d given me the code. But I kept thinking “I hope the box will be easy to find”
For this small detail, I decided to take a deep breath and just trust I’d be able to find it easily. And sure enough:
We took it easy on Friday morning. Slept in a bit since we’d gotten in so late.
The plan was to spend the day hiking/exploring around Mt. Floyen. I’d spent [probably too much] time scouring guide books and websites, to get a good sense of the hiking trails so I could plan out the day perfectly.
But the best I’d come up with was: the trail head to get to Mt. Floyen was in the Bergen City Center and the trails were well marked and there were a bunch of trails from the top of the mountain.
And I was not at all willing to just wing this hike to Mt. Floyen for several reasons:
getting quite lost, hiking alone on a day hike, in the Bavarian Alps in my early 20s.
MBH is an Eagle Scout. And what is the Boy Scout Motto?
Be Prepared.
Quick clarification in case you’re imagining MBH always telling me to “be prepared.” He doesn’t, never has. He is far far too laid back for that. I’m just using this to justify my own OCD issues.
All these things left me unwilling to ever wing a hiking trip – no matter how short or simple.
So that was our first destination. And I had to take a few pictures along the way.
“So Mom, how will we find the tourist information center?”
Another tip for traveling through [maybe much of? maybe not?] Europe:
In many places, instead of a physical line, there are these little machines where you get your number:
Maybe this is in other parts of the world too? Maybe in the US? I just haven’t seen them in very many places, but they are everywhere in Denmark: Pharmacy, Bakery, Library.
The tourist information center staff were so very helpful. Gave us a topological map, directions to the trail head, recommendations for taking the more scenic (but more strenuous) route to Mt. Floyen.
It was time to head up the mountain.
Trail head a 5 min walk from Tourist Information Center
Maybe you’re wondering about the yellow house by now?
Here it is. I took this as we were walking down the trail from the Eiffel Tower.
And alas, no picture of the glacier because there was at least one ridge between us and that view…
Exchange between the two siblings that I’m still laughing about.
Oldest sibling “Does anyone see a stick? I need a stick? Dad, do you see a stick?”
Youngest, immediately: “Sibling, we’re above tree line, there aren’t going to be any sticks.”
And also,
WHERE IS THE YELLOW HOUSE!?!?!
HOW DID THE YELLOW HOUSE GET ALL THE WAY OVER THERE?
In all seriousness, if there’s one-lesson I re-learned yesterday is how easy it is to get lost in a place like this. Looks are very deceiving, and can be dangerously so.
So we’re on the top of this one ridge and hadn’t seen any signs of animal life (human or otherwise) since the Eiffel tower. And we’d had convos about what animals might be living up here, how the streams and lakes we kept passing were likely super clean and free from giardia because there weren’t any cattle around.
But as we’re taking in the views, a jangling sound entered my consciousness.
So I started looking around, and sure enough across the valley (opposite from where we’d come from) there was a herd of something – sheep? cattle? that had cowbells on.
From the bells (*cow* bells) and the color and the shape I could make out from a distance…I’d say the animals were cattle (and yes, I know that not all sheep are white).
But I’ve never really thought of cattle being above-tree-line-grazers. But really I know next to nothing about this.
Even though I was an animal science major in college, “alpine animal husbandry” wasn’t a lesson or class I remember taking.
In any case, I took a picture.
As I’m typing this out I’m realizing I did not get a picture of myself or the oldest at the top. Darn it.
But I did take a few pictures of our view.
I think it was a 45min – 1 hr walk from the Vikinghytten to the Eiffel Tower.
In hindsight I wish I’d kept a better eye on the timing of all this hike. But I was so taken with the day and the beauty of it all, I just didn’t think to keep track. I do know that we left the Airbnb at 1o:30am and made it back to the Mt. Floyen funicular right at 5pm.
If you recall, at some point we had decided to try and get to the yellow house because we thought we’d have a better view of what we thought was the glacier.
If only I’d looked carefully at the yellow house on the hike up, I’d have noticed the big ridge behind it that would block any glacier view. Sigh.
I knew I was close when I passed this troll forest.
We decided that it was in everyone’s best interest to take the Mt. Floyen Floibanen (funicular) down.
Even though it was scary steep.
So I’m 1/8th Norwegian. My paternal great grandfather was Norwegian and I believe it was his father who immigrated to the US- South Dakota- in the mid 1800s.
And while I often attribute my love of cold weather and winter to that 1/8th Norweigan blood, I give a hard pass on “cross country skiing on the Vidden Trail.”
My palms are sweating just thinking about it.
Anyhow, back to the hike. Our first leg of the hike was from the Tourist Information Center to Mr. Floyen.
And from Mt. Floyen along the path marked in red to Vikinghytten.
The smallest red circle is where we left the Vidden trail in search of the yellow house and a view of the glacier.
While there were trail markers, with this kind of hiking, hikers should always have a topo map.
Day 1 in Bergen concluded with take out from Pingvinen Restaurant. I knew we needed some heavy food for dinner and this seemed like a good one. Good reviews on yelp.
Turns out it’s fine dining and fine dining restaurants often don’t like to do take out. The hostess kind of gave me a hard time about this. But the youngest was adamant about getting take out.
I thought our dinner was delicious and filling. But it was very Scandinavian. So different than what we’re accustomed to. Mashed potatoes mixed with flakes of roasted fish and covered with bacon.
Baked hake with mashed peas and lingonberries (may sound weird – who eats mashed peas!?!?!? with lingonberries?) And I learned a few new ways to prepare peas and potatoes and fish.
So, to conclude Day 1 in Bergen Norway.
It was extraordinary. I’m ready to go back. And highly recommend it to anyone who can make the trip.
If we’d finished the trip with just this one amazing day, it would have been a success.
But [spoiler alert] we had 2 more amazing days where we:
explored old Bergen,
walked through the Bergen fortress,
took a stunning fjord boat cruise,
took an early morning hike to the top of Mt. Ulriken (tallest peak in Bergen)
My best effort at correct pronunciation: “Ko-ben-hound”
Many of you probably heard about the youth climate strikes happening around the world Sept 20th to Sept 27th.
As a former climate movement organizer, I’ve personally become mostly cynical about protests and rallies and their impact.
But in this particular case (and honestly in many other protest and march opportunities I do attend), I commit to going because I feel strongly about supporting young people in their efforts to address the climate crisis. Many of whom are refer to themselves as “The Last Generation.”
A few weeks ago I looked to see if there was a climate strike in Kobenhavn. There was, scheduled for Sept 27th.
I RSVPd.
But declined to sign up for email updates.
Next step: Invite the oldest and the youngest to go with me.
Over the years they’ve gone to a number of protest – when they were younger they didn’t have much of a choice (plus we had strollers).
But as they got older, they became more annoyed at protests and marches that started late, and lasted “forever” with “boring” speeches and loooong, *very tiring* walks.
And although I was once an enthusiastic marcher and protestor (and even got arrested blocking methane shipments once) and wanted them to be too, I realized that in order to not turn them off of activism entirely, I need to just ask them if they want to participate, and then respect their answer.
Especially for these youth climate strikes. I get very angry when adults claim to *support youth climate strikes* but don’t take any action to support the youth.
I call these LSS “Lip Service Supporters.”
I get especially angry when adults ask and expect young people to take care of the climate crisis. They didn’t create it, but they are inheriting it. Adults should NOT EVER be asking them to shoulder the burden.
As far as the adults being horrible and trolling and attacking and criticizing these young people?
There is a special spot, in a very very hot place, for those people.
Anyhow, for the Kobehavn strike on the 27th, the youngest said “sure” right away.
The oldest was non-committal…
Until Thursday, the day before the strike, when a bunch of her friends decided to go. Then she asked me to please submit an absence request form to the school for her. Which I did.
Monday, the school’s director sent out the following message: “As a school that educates champions of a just and sustainable world, we support the aims of the “global climate strike” on Friday and understand that our students are passionate about climate change.… we will record absences as usual but there will be no consequences for students who decide to attend the event at Ofelia Plads”
I needed to find poster board for our signs. Not as easy here as it is in the U.S. where I can either walk to the CVS 5 minutes from where we live and buy poster making supplies or drive to [any big box store or grocery store ] to buy them at a cheaper price.
Getting poster board in Copenhagen required a bus trip to the city center to meet my friend Jessica. I could have biked, but since I figured out how to use my Personal Rejsekort Card (and the 4 weather apps I use cannot seem to accurately predict the downpours) I’ve gotten much much lazier and prefer buses and trains.
The public transportation here is amazing.
Plus, the walking required helps me meet my 10,000 daily step goal. Biking does not.
Anyhow, we found the poster board. And I decided to not buy any markers at $3 each. I knew we had at least a black and a blue one at the apartment. That would suffice.
The youngest and I made our posters Thursday evening.
The oldest started her poster. Aimed to finish it Friday morning, but ran out of time. So I finished it for her. She drew/wrote this one. All I did was trace it with blue marker.
Just as I was about to leave to meet the youngest at school – she texted me “mom, can my friend come with us?”
Me: sure, as long as it’s ok with her parents.”
youngest “ok, she texted her dad, it’s fine.”
So I met them at the school at 11am and we walked to the nearest train station. Nordhavn St.
Waiting for the train. It was pouring rain, so we got a bit wet.
Having a sign is pretty important – a visual for photos and the media, but creativity and witty sign slogans aren’t my strong suit. So I had turned to social media for suggestions.
I asked friends if there were signs we could make to support their work. My friend and former colleague Ana, who is Bolivian, wrote this “Neely, Please make ones for the Amazon forests: “Bolivian forests are also burning!” “Save the forests, save the air” “Chiquitania, Bolivia is burning. Save the forests, save democracy” We’re in dire need of international attention and support. The forests and people are dying, and the government is not helping, it’s condemning this area to its death. We need as much awareness as we can get!!!!!🙏🙏🙏🙏”
So I did.
And Ana sent me this heartfelt message when she saw my posts on social media ” Neely, I took the liberty of sharing this image on my fb wall. I was so excited to see this, and let my friends and family back home know there are others creating awareness of this in Europe. As you can see if you visit my fb wall, I’ve been posting as much as possible about this disaster. It’s really impacted me, it’s affected me so much, because I know what’s at stake. These forests have always been a source of pride for me, a source of marvel. Seeing them burn has struck my heart… It does bring hope that our crisis is being heard and supported, even if we have a ferocious government refusing to ask for international help. They don’t want attention brought to their man made disaster. Thank for from the bottom of my heart!!!!
If you’re not sure how/what you should be doing for any cause you care about, simply ask friends and colleagues how you can support them and their work.
Then follow through.
We transferred at the Norreport Station and all over the station were these ads:
A word about the red poster message. Greta Thunberg, the young climate striker from Sweden has received an enormous amount of attention (and hate too – which she has handled with dignity and courage) and has become a leader in the climate movement.
But before Greta, there have been young Indigenous, Black, Latina, African and other non-white people fighting for their land, their communities, their futures, for climate, for clean water, around the world, who have been largely ignored.
I think it’s incredibly important to acknowledge what Greta has done for the climate movement. It is equally, if not more important, to recognize those who have been doing the work for even longer but who have not received the same media attention.
We found the oldest and her friends – who had left school at 10:30am to make sure they got to the rally on time (about a 30 minute trip via train and metro from school).
Although my eyebrows raised a little bit at these plans, I didn’t say anything about really not needing to be so early.
I did not want to dampen her enthusiasm.
But there was this text exchange at 11:30am:
Oldest: “Mom there is no one here. There are more crew members than people.”
Me: “You’re 30 minutes early.”
Oldest: “Yeah, but still.”
me: “People don’t go to protests early.”
Protest Lesson #1 (no one arrives early) learned. (maybe)
Give me your best glare….
Family photo time
Me: “My love, no smiling please, climate change is nothing to smile about. You need to look serious.”
MBH:
As someone who thinks constantly about what humans have done/are doing to this planet, and about how much suffering climate change is already cause, and will continue to cause, it can feel wrong to laugh.
But we have to live our lives and laugh and smile when we can.
The weather was glorious (and based on all 4 weather apps I consult, I was 93% confident it would stay that way), I spent a few hours scouring guide books and googling for a fun family activity.
“Why don’t we go to [insert name of palace, museum, gardens, beach] here.
MBH “Sure, sounds great. Let’s go.”
Teen and Pre-teen: “NO! [that activity you spent hours researching] is b-o-r-i-n-g.”
Me “Come on! It’ll be super fun. Let’s go! We’re living in an amazing European capital, we need to take full advantage of it! We can’t just sit around in the apartment all day! Plus, more than one person has told me it’s their most favorite museum. Do you know how lucky you are to be here? Do you know how privileged you are? PLUS, you’ll get into this museum for FREE!”
“NO! Museums are BORING! We’re TIRED, we need DOWN TIME and REST. We LIKE sitting around in the apartment! AND WE KNOW WE ARE PRIVILEGED!!!”
Glares.
To be fair, their school day starts at 8:30am and ends at 3:30pm Monday through Friday. Their commute by bike is 15 to 20 minutes. And the way home Every.Single.Day includes a long stretch of what must be the country’s fiercest headwinds, in a country known for “having headwinds everywhere.”
They are also involved in quite a number of after school activities – football (there’s a fun story about how the youngest showed up for her first game last week, played, the team won 9 – 1, and turns out, it was THE WRONG TEAM hahahahahaha) piano, parkour, hip hop dance – and have handled the move away from Rochester and transition to life here remarkably well.
So maaaaybe I should cut them some slack.
But not right away.
This back and forth goes on for about 30 minutes. I don’t get back up from MBH for forced family fun. The stubbornness only strengthens, getting closer to diamond-level hardness and given my improving ability to pick my battles, eventually, I relent.
But I also have the last word “FINE. Give me all your screens, NOW!” Glares, protests, angry retorts.
But I do not give in. Looks who’s got diamond-quality stubbornness now…
Screens are collected, hidden, MBH and I head out.
This afternoon’s proposed activity was a visit to The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art . To get there we bike to the Hellerup train station, take the 029 train 20 minutes to Humlebaek stop, then walk about 12 minutes. It’s a sunny, crisp, fall day (do leaves in Denmark change colors?) and an overall lovely journey.
Incidentally, the name of the museum has nothing to do with the State of Louisiana in the United States. Something about it was the name of the first estate of the guy who founded the museum. The explanation wasn’t as interesting as I’d thought it might be so I didn’t pay close attention.
The very first exhibit is that of the artist Pipilotti Rist.
We both found this exhibit just, well, weird and opaque and unpleasant. Didn’t understand it at all. I really didn’t like it and wanted to get out quickly.
Maybe that’s the point?
I snapped a few photos of it on our way out just to try and share/convey the oddness of the exhibit.
The exhibit where we spent the most amount of time was Lauren Greenfield’s Generation Wealth. Really it was more a documentary: “A visual shell shock: With ‘Generation Wealth’ Lauren Greenfield has created a unique document of the recent decades’ crazed consumerism in a world, which is increasingly obsessed with the dream of looking both beautiful and rich.” Photographs and videos, all with fairly detailed descriptions that took time to read. I know the wealth is out there, but I intentionally avoid thinking about it as the world slides deeper into ecological and climate apocalypse from human activity, (including that of our family). Anti-depressants have a limit to their effectiveness.
But for Generation Wealth, I did feel an obligation (and morbid curiosity) to stay.
Going through this exhibit I found myself getting physically sick to my stomach at the greed, consumption, selfishness, jaw dropping waste, shallowness, cultures that encourages sadly impressive spending so young girls grow up faster and orders of magnitude more spending for women to look ever younger, obscene wealth earned and spent around the world.
A few examples.
The couple that set out to build a replica of Versailles in Florida (would have been the biggest house in the USA), spent years collecting stuff from France to furnish it, and stores it all in a 60,000 sq ft warehouse. And they lost their not-even-half-finished Versailles-copy dream home after the 2008 crash.
But are still filthy rich.
A 16 year old polo player from China, attending Choate, owns 5 horses.
Girls in LA start getting plastic surgery in middle school.
A bus driver (somewhere in the USA) goes to Brazil to get 8 plastic surgeries – it’s cheaper and the doctor is fine performing them all at once. The USA doctor wanted to do them one at a time.
Ok, so our family did not actually make it into the Generation Wealth exhibit, but I include this to share that while it’s easy to focus blame on the super rich for their wealth and habits, too many of us are complicit in this culture of consumption and waste and fossil fuel emissions. I am acutely aware – just about every waking moment of every day – of the privilege of having this opportunity. And I’m constantly identifying (and acting on) ways I can use this opportunity to make the world a better place. I’m open to suggestions if you have them.
I took my time, reading just about every description and watching every movie/slide show.
This does remind me of a story from when the oldest was about 4 years old. We lived in New Haven Connecticut, 4 houses down from Vincent Kay, Founder and Owner of Swords into Plowshares honey. His honey processing barn was in his back yard, and he also kept 10 or so chickens in the coop behind his house. Periodically I’d send the girls down there to get either eggs or honey or both.
One day he told me when they came down, the oldest had announced, apropos of nothing “You know we are very rich.” (at that particular point in our lives money was quite tight)
This took him aback but he asked “Oh, really? What makes you say that?” Her response “Well, we have food, and clothing, and shelter, and medicine when we need it, so that makes us RICH!” Remembering that story always makes me smile.
After spending about 90 minutes in the Generation Wealth exhibit, I was feeling quite drained and needed to go outside.
I’d read and heard how incredibly beautiful the grounds are, and on a day like yesterday, they were magnificent. Sculptures and art throughout, paths that go every which a way. The museum sits right on the coast of the Baltic Sea and as such there are gorgeous views of the sea and of Sweden on clear days.
I snapped a few pictures.
It was getting near closing time and dinner time, so we headed home. Rounded up the girls and biked [10 minutes] to an Asian food place grad students had recommended to MBH.
It was quite delicious.
All and all a lovely Saturday. I highly recommend the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art and I do think the girls would enjoy it. Maybe one day I’ll convince them.
Vampires, wha…? (It’s there, promise!) Read on with patience and care…
In our first 3 weeks we bought 6 bikes. They are all 2nd hand – bought either from DBA.dk ( Danish version of craigslist), or in local bike shops. This may be considered excessive by some (a colleague of MBH’s comment was “you might have a bike problem,”) going carless for the year means we all need [pedal-able] wheels.
A few bike photos before tales of SIM cards, CPR numbers, Visas, NemIDs, and Rejsekorts.
B.B.B.
Bikes.Before. Bureaucracy
Others may say “but what about public transportation?” (or, with more snark “sure, biking’s great now, but what about in December?) Public transportation in Copenhagen/Denmark is excellent. It is also very expensive, especially if you don’t have a Rejsekort. (~$4 per trip on the bus – cash only (Exact change not necessary! This does make it easier) $8 or more for the S-tog each trip, debit card only). Unless the ticket machines and the 7-eleven ticket-sale system at the station aren’t working. Then you just gotta get on and hope you don’t get caught without a ticket. Which the girls and I did have to do one day. We did not get caught. Whew. And truthfully? I was so caught up in “the Danish Way” and being honest and wanting to follow all the rules (possibly birth order came into play too. I’m the oldest of 3 girls, and according to one of my sisters, my whole life growing up I had a “halo” and could do no wrong (until I came back from Africa in 2003 – drinking, smoking, and omg, changed political parties(!!!)).
Anyhow, for whatever reason, I seriously considered buying our train tickets once we got back to Copenhagen (post trip!). For about 30 seconds. Then I wisened up, thought “that’s pretty nuts and probably no Dane has ever done that, ever.” So quickly I talked myself out of following through on that GI (Good Idea).
So, back to the Rejsekort. Rejsekort pronunciation: French “R” (the fun French gutteral R sound) then “eye” “se” “kort” (soft guttural R again and soft-sounding T)
To get a Rejsekort, you need a NEM ID. And to get NemID, you need a CPR number.
And getting that CPR number required, well, I’ll just say it was the Danish Government’s version of Pan’s Labyrinth. We (read that, MBH) started looking into this back in April ? May? Can’t quite remember. It was also expensive. And time consuming. It required an overnight trip to NYC for a biometrics appointment with a company that contracts with the Danish Government. And things were going pretty smoothly (only slightly stressful).
But then things got very very very stressful.
You simply cannot have an overseas move without something super duper stressful happening. And for us it was learning that we’d screwed up getting the girls’ their biometrics data. We had misunderstood the online information about the requirements and thought they didn’t need to submit biometrics for their CPR numbers. Wrong. Big Oops.
As a result of our misunderstanding, about two weeks before our DOD (Date of Departure), we learned we were facing $15k in fines, if the girls did not have their CPR numbers by Sept 4th, *insert numerous freaked out emojis here.* Something about the girls and their school and Danish subsidies and having to have their CPR numbers…
We actually considered delaying our move (the cost of forfeiting our plane tickets, and buying new ones was less than $15K), but ultimately decided to just do our best to get the girls CPR numbers before the Sept 4th deadline.
We realized our budget would take a HELL of a hit if we had to pay that $15K, but so much was already in motion we just had to go for it. Movers were booked, our Rochester house was already rented, tenants were moving in, we had a lease signed for an apartment in Copenhagen, starting August 8th, and our Copenhagen Airbnb was booked (and paid for) for August 1 to August 8th.
Friends also encouraged us to just go. They said that although the bureaucracy is intense, the Danes are so efficient it would surely work out. (Thank you friends! You know who you are. You were totally right!)
For all the Danish bureaucracy, once we made the appointments, begged and pleaded with anyone who would listen, prayed, begged and pleaded some more, sweated, spent more than a few sleepless nights tossing and turning with CPR number nightmares, the girls got their CPR numbers a couple of weeks before the deadline. WHEW.
MBH gets all the credit for making this happen.
One casualty of the Danish Bureaucracy is my National ID card photo (separate from the CPR card, the NemID card, and the Rejsekort card).
I look like a vampire. But not a beautiful one, like Bella.
Scary, I know. Yeesh. This might just be how all the freshman, in the dorm where I was a Resident Advisor (at Virginia Tech, years and years ago) viewed me. No Nonsense. Do Not Mess With Me. Or Break Any Rules. Or Wake Me Up at 3am Because You Don’t Have Your Damn Room Key. I did hear a story (via another RA) that one freshman chose (very wisely) to sleep in the hall bathtub one night instead of waking me (the RA on duty) up (at 3am) to let him into his room. My being an actual vampire would have certainly helped the not-quite-sober boy as vampires don’t sleep…Alas, I was not, and he made TRD (The Right Decision).
THANKFULLY, I got to choose my own photo for my Rejsekort card. Yay! And I was NOT going to let an opportunity for an excellent photo on a transportation card exactly zero people will ever see, pass me by.
How I prepped for my Rejsekort selfie:
ATTIRE: Put on one of my favorite shirts – that I bought second hand (Clothes Mentor in Henrietta, NY) several years ago. It is quickly approaching unwearable-in-public threadbare status but totally usable for this picture (and any outfit where I wear a sweater or jacket over it). It also has one little hole on a seam behind my shoulder. As soon as I find a sewing kit (proving difficult in Copenhagen) I’m going to pay the youngest to sew it for me as I’m still not a sew-er.
JEWELRY: One of my favorite necklaces that MBH gave me years ago. One of those occasions where I had stated very clearly and emphatically that I did NOT want a gift (therefore getting myself off the hook for having to get him one). But, being the wonderful and thoughtful husband he is, he went and picked out the necklace below, and I’ve loved it ever since. Was I as thoughtful? That is a rhetorical question… HAIR: I also brushed my hair – typically a bi-monthly occasion. Getting my hair cut is a bicentennial event. Especially now that we’re in the Expensive-Haircut Capital of the World. 380dkk ($56!!!!!) for an 8 minute man’s buzz cut (!!!!).
PHOTO EDITING: cropped out the split ends.
MAKEUP: I put on lipstick. I really love this particular lipstick and like so many seemingly innocuous things in our lives, there is a story behind it. It’s Mary Kay Figue Somptueuse “Rich Fig” and once belonged to Becky Sullivan, my brother in law’s mother. Becky died suddenly and unexpectedly almost a year ago – October 8th, 2018. She was from Chattanooga, TN and we’ve lived at least a day’s drive from family for 15 years, so we would see her about once a year or once every other year. In between the times I was fortunate enough to see her in person, I usually knew what she was up to from my sister and brother in law. And in spite of the distance, what I do remember very clearly was her deep love for all friends and family, her sense of humor, her warmth, her sass, her incredibly bright joie de vivre. You can read more about Becky here. The week she died, I flew to Chattanooga to be with my sister and brother in law and to help out with whatever needed to be done. One of the tasks was to sort through Becky’s things and as we were doing so, someone found a box of unopened Mary Kay merchandise, including this lipstick. Becky was always very well put together – hair, make up, clothes – another thing I really admired about her. Taking care with my appearance has never been my own strong suit, but at that moment I was inspired to start. So after checking to make sure no one else wanted the makeup, I took a few pieces from the box. And while I’m still not one to put on makeup very often, this is now my lipstick color. I think of Becky often, and I especially think of her every time I apply Figue Sompteuse. Becky, you are loved and missed.
Phones
We got our EU SIM cards day 2 of our arrival. It took less than 10 minutes and cost 100dkk ($14.82) each. They also came with Danish phone numbers and, ready for this? EIGHTY GIGS OF DATA FOR THE MONTH. Yes, you read that right, 80 GB of data. For less than $15. Our 2-phone family plan in the USA, with ONE GB of data each month cost way way WAAAAY more than the $60 it cost for 4 phones with 80 GB of data each. We re-upped at the beginning of September, and turns out, the minimum plan is 100 GB (!!!!) for the same price 100 dkk.
Travel tip: If you travel to Europe don’t bother with an international phone plan (when we checked into this for past trips, these plans were stupid expensive) just go to a phone store and buy a SIM card.
Also, telecom companies are robbing USA customers blind.
So, one month and 8 days in to our one year sabbatical in Copenhagen, all the Kelleys have:
Bikes.
CPR numbers (I’m told this is primarily our health care ID)
Necessary Medical Appointments (very easy to make)
me – an appointment with my assigned GP (General Practitioner)
the eldest – appointment with her assigned orthodontist
NemIDs (actually, just MBH and I. 15 and unders don’t get NemIDs).
Rejsekorts
either in hand or on the way. I just ordered the girls’ cards this morning and expect them to arrive in the mail by Friday at the latest.
What remains (and that MBH is working diligently on):
Denmark bank account Denmark Mobile Pay (Denmark version of Pay Pal or Venmo) Figuring out how to actually use those Rejsekorts…
Danish Pronunciations
The other aspect to settling in that has made things So.Much.Less Painful than it could have otherwise been – is the prevalence of English here. The vast majority of websites translate to English (many do so automatically), google translate with video camera is pretty amazing, and Every.Single.Danish.Person.In.Copenhagen speaks brilliant English. In fact, they prefer switching to English than listening to me try and speak Danish with French pronunciations. Although that French “r” sound is coming in handy.
Here’s some fun-with-Danish-pronunciations for you:
Disclaimers:
phonetic spellings below are a mixture of English and French
I could still be wrong about the pronunciations below. This is my own understanding based on convos with Danes and ex-pats and hours on Duolingo). If you know better, please feel free to correct me.
The Danish “y”
Pronounced like the French “u.”
Lyngby (a town) —> Loon-g (very very soft) -boo
Ryparken (a train station and park near us) –> Rue – Parken
Meny (a grocery store) –>Men-(then “ue” sound as in “rue”
The word “havn”
Pronounced “hound”
Nordhavn (neighborhood with the girls school) —>Nor_hound
And as unbelievable as this may sound to some, the frustrations and stress have been worth it. The Danish Bureaucracy and systems can feel quite overwhelming, but once you’re through it, and on the other side, and have the numbers and cards and papers and phones and apps and wifi you need, life becomes more of a cinch…
It feels like it’s been ages and ages (In actuality only about 3 weeks) since I wrote and published a blog post. However, I’ve been taking pictures and THINKING CONSTANTLY about what I’m going to write, all the exciting (to me at least, still not sure it’s so exciting to others) things I’m going to share, fun pictures I’m going to post. But then, I hop on my awesome (2nd hand) road bike for a 30 mile bike ride, or I stroll around Copenhagen (gotta get my 10,000 steps in), or go grocery shopping (multiple trips per day required due to limitations of grocery shopping by bike), or meet a friend for coffee. There are also cute cat/animal videos ya’ll keep posting on FB. Or hilarious twitter hashtags trending: #RevolutionaryWarAirports, #30to50feralhogs to name a couple of the funniest. Then 8pm (my bed and reading time) rolls around and lo and behold another day has passed and no blog post…
But today, I’m just going to write something. My plan this coming week, of course, is to post daily and catch up with sharing all the things we’ve been up to. Unless, the weather is decent (above 10C and not pouring), I commit to being a Boy Scout mom, and soccer team parent liaison. In all cases, chances of following through with catching up on blog posts is reduced by approximately 90%.
Yesterday (Saturday) was a clear and beautiful beautiful day in Copenhagen. Very few clouds, zero bursts of rain the whole day. I have yet to find a weather app/weather station that can give me an accurate forecast but all last week it was cloudy and would randomly rain (pour) every hour or so. I’m almost to the point of giving up trying to plan my outings or bike rides around the weather. But not quite. But anyhow, yesterday was beautiful.
I was trying to figure out what we could do and then MBH had the brilliant suggestion of going out in search of flea markets (Loppemarked – super popular in Copenhagen and all over the place). The oldest especially, loves them (her allowance money only goes so far for new purchases) and of course, given my (probably a bit unhealthy) obsession with reducing consumption and living sustainably and climate change, I love them too. I know there’s thing about going into Target or Costco or Wegmans or *insert name of store here* for $15 worth of stuff and leaving with $250 worth of stuff. I walk into those stores and kind of cringe, buy what I went there for and leave as quickly as possible. But 2nd hand stores/flea markets are a whole different ballgame…My oldest also tells me you can really only find out about them in Copenhagen if you’re connected to the right people on FB.
But, I did a quick google search and learned that googling “Fleamarket” is quite productive. I found this page and decided to check out the Frederiksberg Loppemarked. So, I googled the route to get there, checked, re-checked, and checked weather.com. Then checked again. Then I repeated this process with AccuWeather and Weather Underground and Yr.No. It all looked good. Then we planned out the bags and bikes and racks we needed to have so we could haul any purchases back. Rechecked to make sure the market was going to be open. Did some research into what we might explore in the neighborhood around the market. And so on and so forth. The rabbit hole of google for such an excursion here can go very very very deep.
And THEN, after ALL this planning and google research and (99% of the time, useless) weather page monitoring (but thankfully not yesterday!) , we walked right outside our front door and turns out our whole neighborhood was a loppemarked. I’m sure it was posted on the neighborhood FB page, but it’s all in Danish so I don’t pay attention (clearly I should, and just use the brilliant google translate app with the camera).
We had the good fortune to connect with friends (our next door neighbors) from Cambridge, MA (We lived there summer 2012 to summer 2013). Christine, the mom, is half Danish, so I had reached out to her a few weeks ago, and turns out they were going to be visiting Denmark! So we made plans to meet in the small town where they were visiting her cousin – Greve Strand.
I’ll also say that once again, careful study of the week’s weather was a factor in the decision to meet in Greve Strand and go to the beach on Monday. Monday was going to be the sunniest day this week. Although this is definitely *not* the Danish way. The saying is “there’s no bad weather, only bad clothing.” And in the 3 short weeks we’ve been here, I can say this is true.
First the girls and I had to get there. This required:
biking to the nearest train station (Norreport Station) with the S-tog that went directly to the Greve Strand train stop.
figuring out which train was ours,
determining which direction to go,
find the right platform
buy train tickets.
validate train tickets
get on the right train.
Norreport Station is huge. Lots of entrances. Lots of S-tog trains and metro trains.
Here’s the one map we found
Where do we go? There was some disagreement.
I stayed out of it and let them lead the way. The oldest was also very frustrated that I wouldn’t just ask someone. I’m determined to figure these things out. Also, I’m reluctant to ask for help…
Buying tickets
After confusing an ATM machine for the ticket machine, I did buy a ticket. But I was expecting 2 tickets – one for me and one for the oldest. The youngest doesn’t need one because she’s not yet 13. But only one ticket popped out and I thought I’d done something wrong. (Ticket was in Danish) I have just accepted that I will make plenty of mistakes and blunders as I/we try to figure things out here and figured this was one of those times. And this is where my hours and hours and hours of trying to learn some Danish on Duolingo came in handy.
On the little ticket, about 1/3 of the way down, there was a line with “1 Voksen 1 Barne” I didn’t know voksen, but I knew barn (child). One adult, one child. So whew, we were good.
Validating the ticket.
I remembered reading somewhere about validating train tickets. And while on-train checks for validated tickets are random (and it’s not like US metros where you have to scan a ticket or card for the gate to open. No gates here), according to whatever guide book I was reading, ticket-checkers do not have much sympathy for tourists (which we totally are right now and likely will be for the duration of our stay). So we tried to validate our ticket.
So I figured we needed to just get on and if I’d done something wrong I’d just do my best to talk my way out of it.
Later that day, I asked our Danish friends about this – and turns out the kind of ticket I’d bought “use now” is good for up to 2 hours and does not need to be validated.
Finally! We’re on the train. Hope it’s the right one!!
We arrived, met our friends, and set out to the beach. It was absolutely beautiful.
Decision points for the group:
Lifeguard? Or no lifeguard?
Nude beach? Or non-nude beach?
We asked the kids about nude vs non-nude beach and they all just kind of shrugged. Not a big deal to them.
The flag in this picture indicates there is a lifeguard here.
But THEN our friends told us about the TROLL!!
Apparently trolls are important in Denmark, and there’s an artist (can’t remember his name) who has built trolls in random places all over Denmark. There’s a hashtag on instagram #TrollHunting. I was super curious about this troll under the bridge nearby.
We walked another 25 minutes down the path along the beach.
And arrived to the troll bridge!
But where’s the rest of the troll?
TROLL FACE!
I took a few pictures from the troll bridge.
Now can we please go to the beach and swim?
Off to the beach we went.
The beach!!
SWIMMING!
We headed home at 4pm and had to get on the train without a ticket (!?!?!) The ticket kiosk was broken, and although there was a little 7-eleven at the train station that sold train tickets, the minute the clerk went to put in my order her ticket system went down. The oldest and youngest were very very tired and begging to get on the train (we’d walked about 7 miles and they had swum for about an hour). So the clerk said “just get on, they probably won’t check tickets and even if they do, they’ll be able to see that the ticket buying system is down here so you’ll be fine. This sounded a bit far fetched to me, but I was willing to give it a go (getting on the train without a ticket)
Thank goodness we got a bit of rest on train ride home. Because when we got back to Norreport station, the rows upon rows upon rows of bikes greeted us. And we hadn’t paid much attention to where we’d put ours.
Oops.
Where oh where are our bikes?
Fortunately, the oldest’s bike really stands out (it’s red and white) and the youngest’s is fairly distinct as well. Mine is black and looks like thousands of others at this train station.
We found the bikes within about 10 minutes. Whew.
And encountered some bike traffic on the way home. It was rush hour.
For friends and family who plan to visit, if you’re interested we can definitely take a similar day trip. There are towns like these all along the coast. Just delightful.