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Our Last Forgotten Giant: Thomas On The Mountain

My 4th post of the week. For those keeping track, have no fear, I am not finished with the giants/trolls yet!! Because I still have to write about the 5 days I spent volunteering to help build a new one!!!

But before doing that, I wanted to find the 7th giant: Thomas on the Mountain.

So, with a little arm twisting (from me), the youngest agreed to go, so we set out to find Thomas Friday, July 3rd.

At this point the youngest is totally over bike rides longer than 4 or 5 miles and all these Giants are 10 or 12 miles away. But we do take our bikes with us – it is super easy to transport them on the S-tog trains and then bike 5 – 7 minutes to the Giant.

So our trip out there – bike 2 min to the closest train station, take the green line direction Hoje Taastrup. Settle in for a 35 min ride…

The youngest is a champion napper and takes at least one nap a day. Our trip to find Thomas on the Mountain cut into her nap time, so she used the time on the train wisely…
I love love love the safe and convenient bike paths of this country.
All the green hedges.
Now the path takes us through some woods.
Then through a field. See that slight hill with woods up ahead? That’s Thomas’s Mountain!
You can’t really tell here, but that’s a pretty steep uphill path. And we’re so accustomed to zero hills in Denmark she didn’t downshift or get up enough speed to make it up the hill. So she stopped…
and made her way back down to park her bike. Very annoyed with the hill.
For her, hills/mountains are the *only* place to take a walk/hike.
But she emphatically detests taking on any hills by bike and if she must bike up a hill, plenty of grumbles and scowls and glares ensue.
Field below Thomas on the Mountain
She found him quickly and then settled in to read. And should you think your eyes are deceiving you, they are not. His right leg is very very very long.
Obligatory selfie with Thomas
Thomas’s very very long leg.
Thomas’s view from his perch and my adorable 12yo.
The youngest had very short hair for a year or two. She has recently decided she wants to grow all her hair out. Bangs and everything…
Thomas’s mountain is in a nice big park and there are trails leading further up into the woods. We decided to explore for a few minutes. In [at least] one article I read about Thomas Dambo, he explains that one purpose for his trolls/giants/sculptures to do is give people an opportunity to explore. This has certainly been the case for us. And this mountain was no exception!
Deep in the woods…
View from the very top. Although Thomas’s mountain isn’t quite Mt. Ulriken, it was nice to walk around on trails in some hills for a little while.
One last picture of Thomas before we headed back to the train station.

And this concludes the posts about our search for the Forgotten Giants!

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Rome, Copenhagen, and shenanigans galore.

You may be wondering “Where are the other 2 members of your immediate family?” or thinking “ok, kinda tired of seeing you and the youngest only, would love to see pics of the other 2 as well!” And you are not alone in these thoughts!

The eldest has a very demanding social life – especially once Denmark began to enter Phase 2 of re-opening and then really especially since school ended mid- June.

She is up and out of the apartment by about lunchtime every day and we don’t see her again until 8:30 or 9:00pm.

And when she is around, she is certainly a 14 yo when it comes to having her picture taken. Which is to say, she hates it, often refuses but is always ready with a glare or glower.

The majority of the time I honor this request, but I also sometimes don’t because I know I would regret it – not having very many pictures of her.

MBH has been working all the time. We had all sorts of plans for traveling and hosting visitors for April, May, June, and July. All of which were canceled because, COVID19. This plus the quarantine/lock down meant there just wasn’t a whole lot else for him to do. So he’s kind of been kicking a$$ and taking names with his job this whole time.

In any case, here are a whole lot of photos since about January 2020 to prove to you that we’re still all together…

This post is dedicated to MBH and the eldest.

Rome, January 2020

Well a couple of somebody’s were rather annoyed…
Santa Maria Basilica, Rome, January 2020
One of us is clearly only tolerating this family photo.
She uses her hair very strategically.
So handsome.
Also, on a scale of 1 – 10 annoyed with all the photos, 10 being the most annoyed, his look is saying “about a 5 right now”
Rome, January 2020, near Vatican City.
Sometimes the only shots I can get are those when I walk ahead quickly and turn around to catch them.
I do remember they were having a rather interesting convo but can’t for the life of me remember what it was about.
Rome, near St. Peter’s, January 2020
I promised you photos of MBH and the eldest.
I could not promise full shots of the eldest…
Vatican City, January 2020.
Someone had had enough of the family selfie attempts.
Mom 1, Eldest 0.5
(she’s glaring, and the photo is a bit blurry due to having to take it quickly)
Sisters messing around in Vatican City
January 2020
Another tactic for getting a photo of her:
Walk in front of her and take a quick selfie over my shoulder.
Not the most flattering of photos of MBH.
And my “take a selfie with eldest behind me” tactic clearly failed.
She had caught on and devised more tactics of her own.
She graciously held up a salted almond for us all to see.
Eldest 1, Mom: 0
Baths of Caracalla, Rome, January 2020
Baths of Caracalla January 2020
She saw me trying to take a picture and per, her usual, quickly moved to get her hair in her face.
Alas, I only got her toe for this one.
Mom, I see you, I see your phone, and you’re annoying me.
Mom, you’ll just have to be happy with a photo of my eye.
Eating lunch.
This place had really good desserts and all espresso in Italy is incredible. After lunch we’d order dessert and coffee and they would tell us “oh go ahead and sit down! we’ll bring it to you!” and we thought nothing of it.
Except the delivery charge (from downstairs to upstairs) quadrupled-to-decupled the cost.
Did you do a double-take with the word “decupled?” For the sake of transparency, I’ll confess that I googled “word to describe multiply by 10” In any case, this was a little trick to charge tourists/customers more.
But we learned to insist on waiting for the dessert and coffee and just carrying it to our table ourselves.
Rome, 2020
That’s my eldest!
“When all else fails, I’ll just cover my face with my hands.”
Dinner at our Airbnb in Rome.
Groceries, bread, produce, wine, in Italy are so inexpensive and incredibly high quality, so I cooked simple meals just about every night.
I tried to get a photo, but she saw me and turned quickly. She was on to me. Has been for years.
Overlooking the Roman Forum.
View from the top of the Palatino
Roman Colosseum.
Only allowing one eye in photos became a consistent tactic with the eldest.
Yay!
A family photo of us all smiling!
On our way out of the Colosseum.
Outside the Colosseum listening to more fascinating facts about the place…I think I glimpse a knowing smirk in her eyes…
Or is it a look of resignation?
Ostia Antica. January 2020
While it might look like both girls are messing around on their phones during these fascinating lectures about Mechanical Engineering of Ancient Roman Structures, I can tell you that often they’d hear something in the lecture, not want to interrupt, and so would look it up on their phones…

This concludes the photos from our fabulous trip to Rome in late January 2020. It’s definitely not all of them. We were there for 7 days and I took dozens, if not hundreds every day. But I decided I’d have some mercy on those who dare read this post.

Back in Denmark. 2020

I do 99.9% of the grocery shopping and go almost daily. It is difficult to get a week’s worth of groceries in one trip: bulk items are nowhere to be found, there’s only so much I can carry on a regular/non-cargo bike, and we just don’t have the refrigerator, cabinet or storage space for buying in bulk.
Theoretically I could get close to a week’s worth of groceries in one trip – with a backpack, 2 bike bags, and 2 – 4 wegman’s bags hanging from bike handlebars – but balancing all that even for a few blocks gets tricky. I’ve tried it a few times and then realized it was easier and safer to just go shopping more frequently.
Not to mention bagging so many groceries as all grocery stores in Denmark are “bag your own.”
Going to the store more frequently is made easier by the fact that we are a 2 min bike ride from at least 5 grocery stores but I do have my 2 favorites: the 24hr Netto (super cheap, super close, limited selection and kinda disorganized) and the Fotex at the Osterbro shopping center (more selection, more consistent selection, a bit more expensive).
MBH accompanied me to our 24hr netto here and here he is, waiting to bag our groceries for me.
Mom! Stop!!
Sorry sweetie, it’s your 14th birthday and I’m going to take a picture.
Fine. Take your pictures.
But I’m going to smirk and glare.
MBH and eldest.
Him helping her plan and design a science experiment.
Family card game.
I have absolutely no idea why she walked into our bedroom wrapped in her blanket. I do , however, have an inkling about why she has an annoyed expression on her face.
Working on her science experiment. Which milk makes the fluffiest pancakes? Soy, almond, buttermilk, or whole milk? I think it was buttermilk but can’t remember for sure. And I don’t want to ask her.
Because she’s pretty sharp and will immediately say “Why are you asking me that? ARE YOU PUTTING THIS ON THE BLOG?
MOM, WHY? MOOOOOMMMMMMMM”
followed by the glare.
My birthday dinner. March 2020.
It was low-key because, well, Covid19 and the country was still on lockdown.
I asked for french fries.
Lots and lots of french fries – one of my top 5 favorite foods. And they definitely taste better with mayo… Bring on all the salt and fat!
Tofu pad thai dinner, purple cabbage slaw with creamy Japanese salad dressing.
Also, the eldest with what is becoming my favorite expression. She gets it from her father.
Covid 19 meant closed barber shops. MBH is used to getting his hair cut every month or 5 weeks and got desperate enough to ask me to cut his hair and trim his beard.
I was a bit nervous about it, but I think it turned out ok.
He might not look too pleased, but I can assure you, he was.
Is this bok choy?
Me: stunned silence, then many minutes of LMAO’ing.
um, no. Not Bok Choy.
But I’m going to make you guess. Or GTG (Go To Google).
I tried to catch her but she was too quick for me. Making a Nutella wrap.
For breakfast #3? Snack #10? lunch #2?
I cannot recall.
But Nutella has become a staple in the Kelley household.
And while I can’t recall the exact date of this photo, it was definitely since the pandemic started.
Otherwise there never would have been a bottle of hand sanitizer on the kitchen counter…
Sometime in April the youngest, MBH and I took a trip to the northwestern part of Zealand – about an hour’s train ride from our place.
We were going to bike around and explore but it was chillier and windier and cloudier than we had expected. So we turned around after about 30 minutes and headed back to the train station. Stopped for lunch.
The fries were hot hot hot!
Got back to the train station only to find out that something was wrong with the tracks. We decided to bike to a station on a different line 12 miles to the east.
The youngest had just found this out and was not happy.
Fortunately, the 20mph winds that day were from the west so we had a lovely tailwind the whole way.
Scenery on our 12 mile ride.
The rapeseed flower fields are just glorious. Like vast carpets of yellow all throughout the Denmark countryside.
I take pictures at any and all opportunities.

Yeesh, isn’t this post done yet?

lol. no.

I’m making up for lost months here!

Plus, lots of people (ok, maybe 2) said they couldn’t wait to read more!

About 10 pictures left…

Hang in there. Or bail! It’s ok! I won’t be mad!

These posts are approximately 97% for my own entertainment and record-keeping. I can only hope that others enjoy them too.

MBH and I outside Wow!Wok Our Way Thai food. I think this was April/May? Still a bit chilly and we were in Phase 2 of re-opening, so only take out was permitted and no more than 2 people in any restaurant at any one time.
MBH and I took a random walk one lovely Spring evening and wound up close enough to the Assistens Cemetery where Niels Bohr is buried.
So we went to find his grave.
And we found it!
A clear map at one of the graveyard entrances made it possible.
She’s heading out to spend a weekend with her friends at their vacation home in Jutland. Scale of 1 – 10 annoyance?
About a 9.5.
Mostly because she’s very very excited but trying to play it as cool and chill as possible. And also annoying mom has to take pictures…GOSH!
Take 2.
Was hoping for a smile but no such luck.
Heading out for an evening walk.
Both daughters were spending the night out with friends so we took the opportunity to have a date night at this restaurant. It was amazing.
June 2020 after hearing about Reffen 3X in 2 days I decided it was time for us to try it. At this point the eldest was on her way (having had a busy day out socializing with friends), and the youngest was still waiting for her food from the homemade pasta Italian place. MBH and I ordered from the Moroccan place- 1 of each of the 3 things they had on their menu.
It was all delicious but our favorite was the chicken bastilla (Moroccan chicken pie – closest to the upside down flower pot)
Dad and daughter, walking away from Reffen…

And that’s a wrap!

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Forgotten Giants continued: Little Tilde, Hilltop Trine, and Sleeping Louis

The first week of June the youngest and I found Little Tilde and Hilltop Trine. By this point Denmark had entered Phase 3 of re-opening and she and the oldest were back in school, in the classroom. She no longer had her 2 hour long lunch break.

We had used the lunch break to look for the Giants, to go jogging (run for her, shuffle for me – averages out to jogging I’d say), and to take bike rides to the beach, lakes and ponds.

But by the time she and her sister went back to school, I think she was well good and tired of all that exercise for exercise’s sake. Although I gotta say we had worked up to 3mile jogs and 18/20mile bike rides.

Also, I would always ride my fast (very light) road bike, clipped into my pedals (this allows cyclists to *pull* on the pedals as well as *push* on them), while she road her 50# upright commuter bike. And even with those 2 significant disadvantages, she kept up with me easily.

Our long bike ride to or from the Giants also shortened a good bit. Which was fine. We were outside, getting sunshine and fresh air and at least 30 minutes of cardio activity. We didn’t need to be training for an Ironman!

First Giant(or 4th, I guess I should say, 1st for this post) was Little Tilde. And, as the youngest just reminded me, we did bike all the way there and then took the train home.

Monday, June 1: Little Tilde

It was one of the many Danish National holidays…

After an 18km bike ride we’re getting close (according to Google Maps)! All smiles
Had to leave our bikes on the paved path to take this trail in the woods.
Found her!!!
She spends her days looking over a beautiful pond and posing for countless photographs.
“She’s got a tail. It’s a little weird”
Hi Little Tilde!
Another picture? fine.
Obligatory mom/youngest selfie #10439
Obligatory mom/youngest selfie #10440
Little Tilde’s daily view.
More of Little Tilde’s nature settings. I would have loved to take a walk/bike ride all the way around Little Tilde’s pond but the youngest was ready to get back (and interest in exercise for exercise’s sake was waning).
Little Tilde’s setting is really beautiful, but not quite as peaceful as other spots as she rests quite near the intersection of a couple of highways.

Sunday June 7th: Hilltop Trine

Although my memory of the details of each of these days is flagging a bit, I’m 99% sure I would decide which Giant to seek out (and which day) based on the weather (sunny and warm) and wind direction (Favorable for either a bike ride out or the bike ride back). All of the Giants are quite accessible by bike and public transportation.

The field with the google map marker for Hilltop Trine.
Hi Mr. Billy Goat!
Also, there’s Trine!
Getting closer!
Another selfie, because, why not?
Busy day for Trine!
Family photo.
Also, Trine’s view…
Come on mom!! Time to go! You have enough pictures!

Tuesday, April 28th: Sleeping Louis

I had forgotten, but Louis was the 3rd giant we actually found. First was Oscar under the bridge in August 2019, 2nd was Green George in Freetown Christiania in November 2019 and then Sleeping Louis in April 2020.

The weather wasn’t quite swim-in-63-degree-harbor-water warm, but the sun was out more frequently, we’d been in lockdown/quarantine for more than a month and going to find a giant at a time gave us a good excuse to do that. Can’t quite remember how I decided to find Louis first, but in any case, here was our bike route. This was when the youngest was still on board for longer bike rides…

We biked all the way out there and all the way home.
Shhh, he’s sleeping!
A good spot to hide…
Emerging from the hiding spot…
Ok mom, one more picture and then can we go?

We had one last Giant to find, Thomas on the Mountain. And so on a cool and cloudy Friday in July the youngest and I set out to find him…

Stay tuned!

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Denmark’s Forgotten Giants (ok, 3 of them): Oscar, George, and Teddy.

Well hello everyone!

After a not-insignificant hiatus from updating the blog, I’ve got a couple of posts to write – well, more than a hundred, really – but I’m going to commit to writing just two for the time being.

And while I have plenty of excuses for not keeping up with this blog, for brevity purposes (hahahahahahahahahahaha for those who know me well – brevity and me might be a wee bit of an oxymoron) I’ll just share two:

Excuse #1

  • The Danish winter: long, dark, wet (but not that cold), and zero sunshine for weeks and weeks and weeks and WEEKS. As a result, I’m pretty sure I developed a touch of SAD that was wholly unfazed by lots of Vitamin D supplements and anti-depressants (also red wine and candles)
    • Most of my days were filled with lighting candles, getting uselessly angry at the weather and rain, praying for sun, thinking about all the brilliant and hilarious blog posts I was going to start writing *tomorrow,* grocery shopping, and cooking [fairly delicious, according to the fam], dinners…

Excuse #2

  • The Danish summer:*** glorious, long days, endless sunshine (not even joking, sun sets around 9:40pm, it’s light until about 1am, and the sun starts shining again about 3:30am), crisp and clean water to swim in, beautiful beaches, low humidity, mild temperatures. I could go on and on and on. The point is, it’s magnificent here. I feel guilty if I’m not outside in the sunshine every waking moment (and am not alone in this) and all I have the discipline to do is be outside: swimming, cycling (without fear of getting killed by a car), jogging, walking (without fear of getting killed by a car), exploring parks and gardens and lakes, and, starting in April…

…finding the rest of the Forgotten Giants with the youngest (without fear of being killed by a car)… The oldest has a dizzying social calendar and with the amazing [AND SAFE] biking and pedestrian infrastructure, extensive public transportation, a Rejsekort card I add money to every once in a while, the eldest heads out in the late AM, after many hours of beauty rest, and we don’t see her until about 8pm or 9pm or 10pm…When she texts and begs and pleads in a very sweet [texting] voice for an extended curfew, which we 9 times out of 10, grant. That 1 time out of 10 denial is when it’s her turn to do the dishes…

***Denmark has basically 2 seasons, winter and summer. Maaaaybe summer can be divided into *cool* summer (~60F) and *less cool* summer (70F – 85F)

Our friends Christine and Dave introduced us to the Forgotten Giants August 2019 when we met up with them in a town a little south of Copenhagen. It was an all around wonderful day and lo and behold, we found “Oscar Under the Bridge.”

I wrote about our day in Greve Strand here.

But, in case you’ve only got enough patience and/or time for one of my blog posts today, here are photos of our trip to find Oscar August 2019:

First, Oscar’s hand:

Then his face, covered with children:

The youngest, obliging with a smile and a random child on Oscar’s nose.

OSCAR!

The scenery at all the trolls/Forgotten Giants is magnificent.

View from Oscar’s bridge.
Arken Modern Art Museum in the distance.
The view from the other side of Oscar’s Bridge…

Then, when our friends Svanhildur, Thor, Embla, and Freyja came to visit in early November 2019, and on one day, we took a stroll through Freetown Christiania.

And lo and behold rounded a corner and there was Green George! Although the photo on Thomas Dambo’s site is faaaarrr better than mine, here’s proof I was actually there:

Why oh why didn’t we take a photo with all 4 of us? Myself, Svanhildur, Thor, and Freyja – The big girls had bailed on us and gone home…Apparently strolling through the renowned-for-drug sales Freetown Christiania just wasn’t their thing…

So, two giants found, 5 more to go.

I have to admit here, that I’m not entirely sure if Green George is considered part of the Forgotten Giants or simply another brilliant and creative troll sculpture by Thomas Dambo (all from recycled materials! (except the screws!) in a lovely, intentional, nature setting.

In any case, we have found two trolls and at this point, I am intrigued and impressed, and hoping to find ALL of them!

SO, in May 2020, the youngest and I started going to find the other Forgotten Giants- doing so on her 2 hour lunch break from remote learning (also on the weekends).

We’d bike out and take the train back in or take the train out and bike home – depending on the wind direction. The headwinds in Denmark are fierce…

A friend informed me that in Denmark “every direction is a headwind” and it is 150% the truth.

The first one we set out to find was Teddy Friendly.

Google maps will only get you so far with these Giants – it’s part of the fun.
And they are also very intentionally built in lovely nature settings.
Here’s one path we were on, looking for Teddy.
A bit dejected,
“Will we ever find Teddy?”

YES!!!!

WE WILL!

FEAR NOT MY DAUGHTER!

HERE HE IS!

HELLOOOO TEDDY!!!!

All smiles.
Walking all the way around.
Teddy’s setting is particularly beautiful and peaceful.
I think he’s one of my favorites.
A quiet little pond without any big roads near by.
Hmmmm…
(Disclaimer: I’ve completely forgotten what puzzled her)
All smiles with Teddy Friendly…
Mom, can you wait until I straighten my hair a bit?
Oops! Sorry sweetie!
Pensive…..
Ok, fine Mom, one more selfie…

So after hanging out with Teddy for a few minutes, taking the many obligatory photos, it was time to head to the train station.

And actually, what we did was take an 11.59 mile bike ride north (winds were from the south).

And here’s our bike route to the train station (Not the closest train station, for those of you wondering)

A few photos of the route.

Brilliant blue skies, sunshine, endless fields of rapeseed flowers, bike lanes separated from the roads (reduced risk of death from cars – Yes, USA, I’m talking to you. I know you are a total and wholly avoidable and unmitigated disaster right now with your COVID19 management/response, but please add “do better by bicyclists” to your list)

Not all country roads have separate bike lanes – but they have very few cars, and drivers are really really good at steering clear of cyclists.
Turns out, in Denmark, drivers are automatically liable when they hit cyclists, unless they can prove otherwise.
It is just one of the many many many things Denmark does to keep cyclists safe.
She was a very good sport about this, but about 8 miles in, she was a bit tired and a whole lot annoyed.
Google maps doesn’t distinguish between paved bike routes and non-paved.
Here was a gravel road through some fields…
Isn’t it beautiful?
Now she’s very very VERY annoyed.
I’m quite happy, but fully admit that the more I look through these photos, the more annoyed I get by that wayward bike helmet strap…
A very narrow (mostly walking) path behind a row of houses.
Google maps has a very loose definition of “bike path”
On our S-tog (Orange line direction Klampenborg) back to Copenhagen.
Dear LORD Mom THIS IS THE LAST SELIFE.
I MEAN IT!!

So at this point you may be thinking “ok, cool, you and the youngest have started seeking out the Forgotten Giants, you’ve done 1 blog post in 6 months,

Are the oldest and MBH anywhere to be found?

ARE YOU EVEN STILL MARRIED?

What’s the 2nd blog post gonna be?

And I feel obliged to inform you that this will likely be 1 of AT LEAST 4 blog posts (two more about our search for all the Forgotten Giants)

But wait,

say those of you doing math in your head

“Your math is adding up to only 3 blog posts… Didn’t you say you’ve committed to a couple posts?

“A couple” meaning ‘two?'”

“And now you’re talking about 4 blog posts? ”

“But you’ve only got 3 planned?”

“WTH? “

“DID YOU EVER EVEN LEARN MATH?”

I did!!!

AND,

I am thrilled to inform you that AT LEAST the 4th blog post will be about the time that I actually helped build troll #3 of the Trolde Folke Fest project.

I have taken well over 300 photos, met some awesome folks from around the world, and learned that:

  • A “jigsaw” is not just a puzzle!!! it’s a power tool too!!!
  • A screw gun is not the same thing as a drill…whathe…
  • A raft will float away if not thoroughly secured (the most hilarious day of the whole week)
  • Wooden pallets are the best source of recycled wood [in the world]
  • Thomas Dambo may just be the most resourceful artist [in the entire universe].

And this first post after a many-months hiatus is just to give a bit of context to why it I’m finding it so cool and fun and an incredible privilege to help build a troll (and also wishing we were staying until September so I could help out with the whole project).

Also, when I say “Guess what!?!?! I volunteered to help build a troll!!!!!!” It is *not* a euphemism (as one dear friend thought), but is in fact, the legit truth.

Stay Tuned!

PS – I promise, with future posts, to include photos of MBH and the oldest.

I cannot promise, however, that the oldest will not be glaring.

Because she most definitely will be. She gets SO annoyed with her mother (me) always taking surreptitious photos…

Whatevs, she’ll be grateful for them in at least 20 years, maybe sooner. And it’s totally ok by me if she never admits it out loud…

PPPPPPPPPS: If you’re curious to see where Thomas Dambo’s trolls are located around the world, here is the map (just keep clicking)…

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Why did I take that picture?

So, per the usual, it has been a long long while (might be up to months now) since I wrote my last post. But that of course hasn’t stopped me from dreaming up topics and *thinking* about posting. And taking plenty of pictures.

But now that we are on Day 6 since schools and universities were shut down, Day 4 since Denmark closed its borders and Day 1 of the Danish government taking even more drastic action to slow the spread of CoronaVirus.

As of last night (March 17th) in Denmark,

  • All shops except groceries and pharmacies will be shut down through March 30th,
  • Groups of more than 10 are forbidden,
  • the Queen addressed the nation for the first time since 1945.

I’m going to see if I can do a quick blog post (start to finish in less than 4 hours – they usually take me between 8 and 10 hours) just as a quick update to friends and family about how we’re doing, what we’ve been up to, and life in Copenhagen.

Most of you know I have the gift of gab and could turn any one of the below pictures into a post all by itself .

But I’m going to give brevity a go.

I will also be ok with failure.

First, misc pictures of the fam.

The oldest during our trip to Rome late January. Photo submitted to her school yearbook because she didn’t like the professional school photo.
MBH all smiles. Coffee/tea/cheese cake on an afternoon we spent exploring Copenhagen one weekend afternoon in February.
The eldest during dessert on her birthday. February 2020.
The big 1-4.
Do you love *the look?* I love the look. So special.
We got sushi takeout (her favorite dinner food).
You can’t quite make it out but there’s a small chocolate cake in front of her with Danish Flags in it.
Danes are all about their flag on birthdays, but not candles, apparently. Because I looked in 5 different stores for birthday candles, to no avail.
Notice the small glass cup with the spoon in it? That’s the very large portion of apple crisp she helped herself to before she realized I’d actually gotten her a cake.
She ate both, but did regret it.
Late January 2020. How about that side-eye?
Photo credit to eldest.
This is overlooking the Forum in Rome.
The girls had great fun with the family camera when the [absolutely fascinating] college – level lectures about the mechanical engineering of ancient roman structures got to be a bit much for them.
All dressed up to go out for the birthday celebration of two friends in late February. It was a grand time!
After more than a few weeks of searching for the perfect new winter hat, I found it downtown. I’m very happy with it and will probably be wearing it through June or July.

OMG OMG OMG The sun!

Between early October and late February, there was approximately 1 sunny day in all of Denmark. Now we’re getting about 1 sunny day every 10 or 12 days. And when the sunshines, I go outside.
This is the Little Mermaid Statue in the Copenhagen Harbor – A must-see for tourists.
It’s a little over 2 miles from our apartment and even on a cold winter Tuesday afternoon, there were dozens of people gathered around.
A glorious sunny day on top of Luders Parking garage/running stairs – one of my favorite places to go workout. The views from the top of beautiful. Even on cloudy days.
Who can guess what this structure is? Do share in the comments.
I took this picture because I have NO idea.
It’s wooden so God forbid it’s a slide.
Maybe people run down it and jump in? I can think of safer, more fun ways to create a water jump.
A kayak launch? Seems a bit excessive to me. But there are a couple of wooden tracks at the top (hard to tell in this photo)
Anyhow,
whatever this ramp is, it’s in a very popular public recreation area of the Copenhagen Harbor.
There are roped off swimming areas (my favorite swimming spot is here – with a 75m lap pool and it’s roped off underneath so jellyfish can’t get in!!, docks, ramps, walking areas, cafes (closed in winter)kayaks for rent, and maps all over the place detailing a 15km running route.
When I asked MBH what he thought, he said “dunno, but let’s come back in the summer to find out”
Early February. I went out to explore a National Forest/park I hadn’t yet been to.
One of the things I love love love about living here is being able to hop on a bus, a train, the metro to explore areas near me. This one is in the town (neighborhood?) a few miles north of us – Charlottenlund.
The park itself wasn’t very big and I came upon this house and thought it worth a quick photo.
I am making really good use of all my cold weather exercise gear – all of which, I have realized, that my dad has given to me over the years. Thank you Dad!!
“50 Meter pool is closed the below days and times”
2 days before Denmark closed schools and universities, I bought a 10-day pass to this community swimming pool (and no, I cannot pronounce it) about 25 minutes by bus from our apartment, or a 15 min bike ride.
I took a picture of this sign so that I could type it into google translate when I got home.
This was posted and planned 2 days before Denmark closed everything because of CV.
Now the pool is closed until March 30th.
ANYHOW, the week before I had met my friend Jennifer at this pool – to check it out before committing to the pass. I fell in love with the 50meter pool right away. Definitely prefer it to a 25m pool.
The facility and culture is quite different in a number of ways from my experiences in US gyms/pools. For example, you have to shower with soap, before putting your swimsuit on. So, naked. And all the showering is communal. Zero curtains or closed off shower stalls.
Also, in the women’s bathrooms/locker room, there is a small “cold pool” (6 or 7 feet deep, maybe 8’X8′ square, 50 degrees F). And it’s right next to the very very very hot sauna.
Basically it’s a “winter bath” set up, but inside. Winter bathing is something I’ve heard about, been mildly curious about, but not curious enough to go down to the Copenhagen harbor to partake in it myself. Many Danes swear it’s good for your health! Maybe before I finish my 10-day pass I’ll have the courage to take a dip in the 50F pool before taking a turn in the sauna.

The Murals of Nordvest

My friend Jessica learned about this really cool area of Copenhagen with huge murals on the side of apartment buildings and invited me along to check it out the week before CV ramped up in Denmark (30 cases to more than 500 in 3 days, now we’re up to close to 1000 positive cases 9 days after it was only 30 cases) Two streets worth of murals.

Below are a few (not all!) of these bright and colorful murals.

Spaceman.
Jessica had planned out the whole afternoon and had picked out Cafe Sirius for us to have lunch.
It was delicious.
Why did I take this photo? Absolutely no idea. I asked her, assuming she would remember (she has a pretty sharp memory). Alas, she has no idea either.
Why did I take this photo? Well, it’s my new residence permit photo – The ones we got last August expired in February 2020. So we had to go through the whole process all over again.

Not going to lie. The new permit photo is far better than my old one.

And in case you forgot, here you go

My vampire picture…

Life during corona virus

Anyone tired of pictures of stores and shelves yet? No? Great! Here you go!
I took this photo on the Thursday (March 12th) after the Danish government announced closure of schools the night before (Wednesday March 11th) There was definitely a run on TP and some empty shelves.
But this is one of the 2 places I do most of my grocery shopping (a 3 min walk from our apartment) and they were well stocked.
Day 2 (Friday March 13th) after government announced store closures. Photos from folks who went to the stores on Thursday March 12th showed very very long lines. By Friday, things were pretty normal.
Night 1 after schools were closed. Although truth be told this has mostly been our evenings since early November…
Lots of candles. All candle holders bought 2nd hand at my favorite thrift shop. I’ll be bringing most of these home with me. Hygge is definitely an aspect of Danish culture I have come to really appreciate and enjoy.
That was the night MBH and I watched the Two Popes. I highly recommend it.
The next night we watched “Stepsons” and it was HORRIBLE. 98 minutes of my life I will never get back.
DO NOT WATCH IT
Saturday, March 14th. Day 3 after school closure announcement.
So much for social distancing.
The playground on top of the Luders Parking garage.
A gloriously sunny day, packed with children and families. And metal surfaces upon which the corona virus can live for several hours…
MBH and I went out for a bike ride, just because it was a beautiful day and biked down to the Fisketorvet mall (about 25 minutes from where we live) Saw this and had to take a photo.
Quite a bike. Fat tire, recumbent, electric, trike…
MBH and the eldest planning out her science experiment to test which milk will make the fluffiest pancakes (soy, almond, buttermilk, whole milk). Her assignment was to plan it out. Not sure when she will have to run the experiment.
March 17th Card games with cell phone of course. This was Spades. We played 2 rounds then switched to Egyptian Rat Screw. I def. prefer spades but think the young’uns need a few more years to appreciate it…
Canes. The youngest is not so happy.
Canes.
She and her dad lost.
So sad.

Ok. that’s all for today’s post! You decide if I achieved my goal of brevity. It only take me about 4 hours…

Hope all are staying safe and healthy.

Featured

To Be Or Not To Be A Hypochondriac in Denmark

** I published this before spending much (any) time on editing (not really recommended) and have added some post-publishing edits and comments and embellishing, marked with two stars. **

**Not to put a spoiler alert at the beginning of post in case someone wants skip all my stream of consciousness writing and random pictures, but one friend said she was kind of worried and kept in suspense about my possibly having Deep Vein Thrombosis -because she knew someone who did – and it is a life-threatening and really serious condition. So I’ll share now that

**I did *not* have Deep Vein Thrombosis. Turns out I spent slightly more than half a day in the (easy, streamlined, professional, assuring, effective, and efficient) Danish Healthcare System, all to be diagnosed with a left calf strain/tear.

**So here’s my post about how I spent my Friday, February 7th.

About 10 days ago (right around the time I picked my run/walk training back up after a 4 week hiatus), I developed pain in my left calf (actually, both calves, but it was worse in the left one).

Like any non-hypochondriac, used to the catastrophically expensive US healthcare system, I didn’t immediately consult the web. I just stretched, rolled it out on my fabulous foam roller (that I credit with healing my years-long case of plantar fasciitis. Thank you forever Lisa M for that recommendation).

  • And then the next day, I did a sprint workout.
  • And the day after the sprint workout, I was feeling so good, I went and climbed up and down stairs for 20 minutes, at the place in Copenhagen with the most number of stairs (yes, googled “where are there good stairs to run in Copenhagen?”(#10 on the list). It’s 3.3km from where we live so that day I *walked* there and back. I needed to take it a little easy and not over do it.
  • Then the day after that, I thought it would be a good idea to go ahead and do a “long walk/run” (long for me – 4 miles – running 6 min on 1 min off. I’m determined to do a 1/2 ironman before I’m 50 and at my current injury rate it’ll take me the next 8 years to get ready for it, so I’m not wasting any time.
  • and THEN, because I was feeling SO GOOD (and also possibly because I gained a bit of weight during our travels to Italy, Munich, French Alps, and Rome between December 14th and January 25th and am trying to shed those extra pounds), I thought “why don’t I just jog on over to the Luders Running Stairs, and do one or 2, 6 minute intervals jogging up and down the stairs as part of my walk/run workout?” And then jog on home?” So I did. But my calf was still feeling a bit tight and sore. So,
  • I took a rest day.
  • And the next day, decided to jog back to the Luders running stairs, walk up and down those stairs for 30 minutes (137 steps up each time) and then jog home again. And in case you’re wondering, that was 1233 steps up and 1233 steps down. And for me, going down takes as long as going up because I have visions of stumbling and falling All.The.Way.Down. so I take my time.

Incidentally, one of those days I spent at the stairs was a rare and gloriously sunny day.

The views of the water are beautiful. As are the windmills. The power plant with smoke blowing from it? Not so much. But that didn’t stop me from fully embracing the sun and water. And going up and down the stairs.
The actual stairs…SO MUCH FUN TO GO UP AND DOWN THESE STAIRS!
Another view of the wind turbines at one landing on the Ludens Running stairs…
It is SUNNY. and I am RUNNING THE LUDENS RUNNING STAIRS. And LOVING IT
View from top of the Luders Running Stairs….

This whole time my left calf was staying tight. Right calf, hips, back, quads, gluts, IT band, knees, the things that have been injured on and off the last few years, were all feeling good. I have been SO DILIGENT and CONSISTENT about warming up and warming down (**except maybe after one or two workouts), stretching, and using my foam roller daily. Incidentally, never in my life have I had to spend MORE TIME warming up and warming down than actually working out.

But *sigh* then I remember that I am in my 40s (EARLY, for anyone wondering) now, and my body is enjoying reminding me of this.

**MBH is having similar muscle aches and pains challenges and wondered out loud a few weeks ago “So I wonder why that is?” Me: “Your telomeres are getting shorter” No idea if that’s true but I thought it sounded smart.**

Anyhow, the foam rolling and stretching was just not working for my left calf.

So I decided I should take a rest day. Which was yesterday, Thursday, February 7.

**Actually, Thursday was February 6th. Credit to Lisa M, my copy editor, for the catch.**

And it was SUNNY.

And I needed to hit my 12,000 step goal.

So I went out for a walk.

Some of you may recall that the determining factor for where I go for a long bike ride, is the wind direction. And after studying 8 weather apps, I plot my bike route to ensure I have:

  • A tail wind the whole way, and,
  • A train station at the end of the ride. So I can bike a lovely 20, 25, 30, etc miles with some help from the wind, and then take the train home. Judge all you want. ONE time I biked 25 miles with a 15 mph headwind and it pissed me off so much, I will NEVER do that again.

Well, because it’s been so wet and rainy since September, I have not been for a single bike ride (Sad, I know 🙁 ) But I do walk. A whole lot. 30 to 45 miles a week.

**Post-publishing I actually calculated these numbers and realized the “45 miles” is a bit of an exaggeration. Maybe once or twice in the last 6 months have I actually walked/run 45 miles in one week. These days I run 6 – 9 miles and walk 20 to 25 miles a week.**

And now that we’re starting to see the sun once every 2 weeks, I plot my walking routes much like I plot my biking routes – except in this case I just follow the sun. And I consult google maps to make sure I’m not too far astray from a train or metro or bus line, and when I’m ready to go home, I just hop on one of those 3 public transport options with my handy -dandy personal Rejsekort card.

THE SUN!!!!!!! This was my rest day from all that jogging and stair climbing. I walked 6.6 miles in total.

So I’ve digressed a wee bit. But I’m getting to the hypochondriac piece. Promise.

So, I’ve had this tight calf after 7 to 10 days of fairly rigorous (for me, anyway) exercise after a 4 week holiday hiatus.

Rolling isn’t working. Stretching isn’t working. Something is wrong. My rest day (where I walked 6.6 miles – but remember, it’s FLAT. THERE ARE NO HILLS WITHIN A 1000km RADIUS OF THIS COUNTRY. I HAVE LOOKED AT ALL THE TOPO MAPS. I DID NOT GO TO THE LUDENS RUNNING STAIRS) DIDN’T MAKE MY CALF FEEL BETTER.

It was time to consult the internet.

Which is what I started doing this morning (Friday, 2/7/2020).

Then I looked at my left calf, and detected a very slight discoloration in the area where I felt pain. So I asked MBH. He couldn’t see any discoloration at all. But *I* saw it, and was 100% convinced of the slight discoloration (could have also been the lighting) of my left calf.

At 8:00am after everyone had left – MBH for work and the youngest and the eldest for school, I did what any health-conscious person would do, and I googled “calf pain.”

And by 8:15am, I had sent a sheepish yet also anxious google chat message to my friend Svanhildur “um, I think I might have Deep Tissue Thrombosis in my left calf, that could cause my death. I have zero risk factors, and I might have run kind of vigorously this past week, so it *could* be a calf strain. But it could also be life-threatening. I could die, like, in the next hour. Should I go see my doctor?”

And what proceeded was a 90 minute google chat with Svanhildur (God Bless her) where we went back and forth about my left calf pain being the life-threatening condition of Deep Vein Thrombosis or a simple calf muscle strain/tear.

I’ll also add that at some point during this chat,(I’d still been googling “calf pain” and “DVT”) I came to the understanding (logically, but not emotionally) that I have zero risk factors (except the overweight bit, and ONE website said being over the age of 40 was a risk factor) for DVT.

I only realized two days ago that I must now say I’m in my *early 40s.* And have a birthday coming up in less than 2 months. Egads. How did THAT happen??!??!!?

But in fact, my fairly active lifestyle (**walking/running 25 – 35 miles a week, not on birth control or other forms of hormones, non-smoker, not obese (a bit overweight, though), no recent long flights or drives, not pregnant, not immediately post partum, not recovering from surgery, not recovering from cancer treatment, no prolonged bed-rest) puts me in the category of “least likely to have DVT.”

And all that vigorous exercise after a 4 week hiatus ( did I mention there were a couple of days when I didn’t stretch or warm down at all? I just remembered) put me in the category of “most likely to have a calf strain.”

But there was still the “family history” risk factor. Which I didn’t know. We’ve got some heart and cancer and Alzheimer’s and blood pressure and a few other health issues in my family. I just wasn’t sure about blood clotting.

But by this time I was thinking “probably all those other health issues means we probably have blood clotting issues too.” I was also thinking “I really love my red wine, could that be a risk factor? Surely one website, somewhere, in Russia, says drinking red wine is a risk factor for DVT.”

Oh internet, how you enable hypochondria….

And although 9:30am in Copenhagen is 3:30am EST, I thought “I’ll just text my favorite youngest sister (who is trained as a nurse), she might be up. She’ll know.” (And for those who don’t know, I also have a favorite middle sister. Her name is Julia and she’s an incredible and amazing special Ed pre-school teacher in SC). So I texted Conoly (favorite youngest sister).

Meanwhile, Svanhildur had convinced me that I should definitely go to my doctor, who has walk-in hours from 11am – noon M-F.

To be fair, I had not shared all the details about my running and stair climbing and possibly not always stretching, with her. Because to be perfectly honest, by this point I was so convinced I might have DVT, I had suppressed all memories of the prior week’s somewhat vigorous, and calf-strain-inducing exercise. I had convinced myself that I had DVT.

So I sent a last-minute regret to my lovely French conversation group that was meeting at 10am.

Kept googling “DVT.”

Stopped googling “DVT” after Svanhildur yelled at me through google chat. (messages in all caps)

I closed all my *symptoms of DVT” browsers, I swear.

And left for my doctors office at 10:37am. I had no idea how walk in hours worked, as I’d never used them before. Figured I’d better be early. And I was. Via Bike (7 minutes). I was 15 minutes early, but checked in with my fabulous Danish CPR (health) card via a machine….(CPR number is basically the equivalent of a Social Security Number)

And sat down to wait. In the waiting room there was some coughing and sniffling and hand-to-toddler-forehead motions, so of course I was thinking “I probably don’t have DVT, but am going to catch either the flu or Corona virus because of my hypochondria today. Awesome.”

11:00 AM on the dot, my doctor pops her head out and calls my name.

My doctor was great and did a quick, but thorough exam, and basically came to the same conclusion I had – I’m at very very low risk of DVT, but was symptomatic enough (calf pain) to warrant a more definitive test for DVT. Ultrasound is the #1 diagnostic tool, but there’s also a blood test for a protein that is elevated during a clot, and it can only be done at a hospital.

**My friend Robbyn, a physician, after graciously taking the time to read this post, sent me these two links:

**AND, dear readers, turns out the decisions made yesterday were exactly the right ones. I scored a *1* on the DVT Wells Criteria Test at my doctor’s office (localized tenderness along deep venous system – it wasn’t 100% definitive but enough tenderness there, the doc ordered further evaluation).

**And according to the “next steps,” that score warrants a D-dimer test (the blood test I got at the hospital). And my blood tests were perfectly normal, so my risk of DVT was then and only then deemed <1%. So to reiterate, I did *not* end up having Deep Vein Thrombosis.**

**So back to being at my doctor’s office.**

She called the hospital while I was in her office and wrote down the instructions for me to get there. I’ll just take a moment here to thank the stars, heavens, God, and Jesus that most all Danes in Copenhagen speak excellent English. Otherwise I might still be wandering around downtown Copenhagen looking for Bispebjerg Hospital (located in a nearby suburb).

I will also put in another plug for the Danish healthcare system. I was very impressed and grateful for it.

So I google how to get to the hospital. It’s either 14 minutes by bike, 41 minutes walking, or 20 minutes via public transport. I had biked to my doctors office (7 min) and was feeling super lazy about biking 14 min to the hospital. Our apartment was halfway between the doc’s office and the hospital….Plus, I should minimize vigorous exercise (biking) because it might lead to a deadly pulmonary embolism….But walking would be totally fine, of course.

So I biked 6 minutes to the bus stop nearest our apartment, locked my bike there, hopped the #12 bus, missed the nearest-to-hospital bus stop (because of my own arrogance and thinking google maps was wrong about the bus route) and walked 18 minutes to the part of Bispebjerg Hospital google was directing me to.

Me, arriving at Bisbepjerg hospital!!!!! You may notice I have a new coat. Yes, I do. Well, not totally *new.* New to me. Bought it at the thrift store nearest our apartment. The best winter raincoat I have and I LOVE it. The hat is the same as it’s been since last October. I’m sick of it. Maybe you are too. And if you are, fret not! I’m on the hunt for a new one. New/used, that is.
So all my selfies won’t have the same darn hat!

**A dedicated reader (Lisa) asked to see more of the raincoat. So here it is. Bonus, me in slippers with our messy kitchen in the background…

Without the hood. This was a find. It is super warm, lightweight, fully waterproof, and breathable!
With the hood. ALSO, notice the SUNLIGHT? I am taking the train to the Deer Park today and will walk to another train stop 4 or 6 miles south, so I’ll have the sun in my face the whole way. The things I’ll do for sunlight in my face is definitely a consequence of our time in Copenhagen. Even after living in the northeast, and then the snowiest place in the country for more than a decade, I never ever obsessed this much over getting sunlight on my face.

Ok, once again I’ve digressed. Back to the post…**

I’ll also add that this whole time, because my doctor had validated my “very low risk, but enough risk, of DVT, to warrant more testing,” I’m biking and on the bus, and walking, and thinking “I have DVT, I can feel it throbbing, and the blood clot is going to break up any second, and I’m going to have a Pulmonary Embolism. Right Now.”

**If my internet searches had led to the PERC Rules For Pulmonary Embolism, I probably would have been a bit calmer about my risk of this happening. My score was/is Zero.**

So I get to this entrance to the hospital and realize rather soon thereafter (as soon as I walk through that arch) that the complex is HUGE and I start following signs to the place my doctor had written down. It took another 15 minutes to find the building I needed to go to, and the throbbing in my calf was growing, and I had increasingly vivid visions of me collapsing from a pulmonary embolism. It’s ok. You can go ahead and laugh at me. I am.

But I comforted myself by thinking “It’s ok, you’re at the hospital now, you have your national health card on you, if you have a pulmonary embolism, you’ll be close to help and will have a greater-than-average-chance of not-dying…” Also, because we are in a country with socialized medicine, it won’t bankrupt us!!

I finally arrived at my floor/area and asked the first nurse-looking person I saw (white scrubs with a name tag, talking to a person that looked like a patient. He said something in Danish. I replied, apologetically with (what I hope is always) a winsome smile “I’m sorry, I don’t speak Danish.”

He switched to English immediately (one reason it’s impossible to learn Danish in Copenhagen – Danes speak wonderful English and just ain’t got time or patience for non-Danes trying to learn their language) and directed me to the sign (I should have taken a picture and I didn’t) down the hallway.

I walked to that sign, poked my head in the doorway, saw it was a room with a number of desks, chairs, and computers, with one harried looking staff person right in the doorway. She said something to me in Danish. I replied (same winsome smile and apologetic tone “I’m sorry, I don’t speak Danish.”)

She replied in English (kindly, with an arm full of stuff) “What is your name? How can I help you?”

I said “my doctor sent me for an ultrasound, pain in my left calf.” She said “Do you have your CPR card?” I showed her, she said “ok, Cornelia Ellefson (everyone in Nordic countries pronounce it “A [hard A, like *ale*] -lef-son – that is how it’s pronounced in Norway, where the name originates from”) Kelley. Got it. Thank you! Just have a seat…” then she waved kind of down the hallway.

At one end of the hallway there was one table with 3 chairs. But there was also another little area with 5 tables, a few chairs, all tables filled with what I thought were patients being served lunch. It did not look like a reception area. It looked more like the patient lunchroom.

So I went to the end of the hall to wait. And I waited about an hour. gchatting on my phone with my favorite youngest sister, Conoly, who was now awake….(and shared that we had zero family history for blood clotting issues which took my risk factor of DVT to below zero).

But as I’m engrossed in my phone, I was also kind of like “hm, did they get my name? Am I in the right place? Where is reception? The staff person read my name off my CPR card but I don’t remember seeing her do anything with it. Do they know I’m here? Do they even have reception here?” These are all the thoughts running through my head.

So I left the spot at the end of the hallway and went to stand in the little area with the 5 tables and chairs. (All the chairs were full of folks being fed their lunch). And I just kind of stood there, on my phone, hoping someone would notice me there and ask me what I was doing…Otherwise I was going to wait until after lunch was over and cleared away and then I was going to just stop someone with a hospital badge.

So I waited for about 30 minutes, and the kind lunch lady finally asked (first in Danish, then in English) “Do you need any help?” And I said (with much relief, thinking “someone’s talking to me, yay!!!) “I’m here for an ultrasound for my calf, my doctor sent me.” She asked “have you checked in with our staff? And waved to the one room I’d stopped by earlier. “Oh yes, I stopped by there earlier.” She asked “and they got your name?” Me “yes, she looked at my CPR card” She said “ok, good, just wait here, then.”

**Then, “would you like some food?” Me, thinking “wait, what? What universe is this in, I’m not a patient but am being offered a free lunch? Where am I again?”**

And I’m also thinking “ok, confirmation 2 that I’m doing the things I need to be doing to be seen.”

Meanwhile, it’s clear this floor is definitely a patient floor, patients are walking up and down the hallway, with their IV bags, and I’m kind of standing around in the middle of it thinking, “I hope I”m in the right place. My left calf sure is throbbing now…At least if I throw the clot and have a pulmonary embolism I’ll get help right away and will probably not die permanently. I’ll be resuscitated!!!”

I had also updated my phone by this point to list MBH as “emergency contact.” **Prior to me reading too many websites about death from calf pain, I’d had zero emergency contacts in my phone. No time like waiting time in a hospital to update this. And I encourage anyone who doesn’t have an emergency contact list in your phone, to create one.**

I found a free chair in the small table-filled area and sat down. There was one guy, an elderly Dane (maybe 65/70) who was striking up conversation with anyone and everyone. He seems really friendly, but as I have become quite anti-social in my middle-age, I was just hoping he’d not try to talk to me. I really didn’t feel like engaging in small talk. I figured my not-speaking Danish would help my case, but then I heard him speak English [perfect with a Danish accent] and thought “ok, I must not make eye contact, I must not make eye contact, I must type on my phone continuously. This facebook post/share is critically important to world peace…”

Meanwhile, I look up to see a guy dressed in a sweater and threadbare white skivvies, with an IV bag/pole walking past the 5-table area (at first I assumed it was the cafeteria area, I came to realize it was likely reception)…He was getting his steps in! Dressed in a sweater and skivvies. Danes just don’t care about showing some skin and I have to say I admire and envy this.

At this point I was resigned to the fact that there is some system happening and I am just utterly clueless as to what it is and I will eventually be evaluated for DVT and I just have to trust the 4 people who have told me I’m doing the right thing and I’m in the right place and I need to CHILL. AND, BONUS, if I am to throw a clot and have a pulmonary embolism, again, I’m in the right place and have a fairly good chance of living to see tomorrow.

So I scroll NYTimes.com, Washingtonpost.com, slate.com, sighthoundunderground.org ( I miss my greyhounds so much and take great comfort in the fact that they are being very well cared for by my favorite youngest sister, West Point Grad BIL, and niece), my FB feed, chat with my favorite youngest sister, chat with Svanhildur, look up, and see Mr. Skivvies walk past again…Bless his heart….

Then my name is called!!!! yay!!!!!!!!!!!! Confirmation they know I’m here!!!! woohooo!!!!

And a lovely and kind nurse proceeds to ensure all my personal information is accurate. She then takes a few test tubes of my blood. I do not like having my blood drawn, but work hard to tap into my ability to take slow deep breaths. As a result, I don’t break out into a cold sweat or pass out while 3 test tubes of my blood get drawn.

She then tells me I should get up, get a cup of coffee, walk around, they are quite busy today and I should settle in, it’s going to be awhile. This makes me chuckle and I’m grateful she told me. I went to get a diet coke and some peanuts (it’s close to 2:30 pm and I hadn’t eaten since breakfast. I should have accepted the offer of food from the nurse…

Then realize there is complimentary tea and coffee and water in the hallway of the floor where I’m waiting to get an ultrasound for (what I have convinced myself by now is) DVT.

It’s another hour or so, when another woman in a lab coat calls my name. “A-lef-son?” “Cor-ne-l-i-a?”

**My Irish [married] last name sometimes gets dropped in Denmark, apparently. That’s cool. Always happy and proud to claim my Norwegian roots, but especially fun and gratifying to do so while living in Scandinavia.

Turns out, she was the doctor. And she spends a good 20 minutes with me, and in hindsight, I am very grateful she didn’t spend the whole time just laughing at me and my foolish-internet-induced-anxiety-about-having-DVT. She was very thoughtful, and thorough and direct “I am 100% confident you do not have DVT. I am near 100% certain what you have is a calf-strain and not DVT.” We went down the whole list of risk factors again. Zero. Zilch, for me.

The one piece of additional information added to this whole internet-caused-hypochondriac drama-regarding-life-threatening-calf-pain was bloodwork. There is a protein that is elevated with blood clots – but the doc said all my blood work came back 100% normal (the word *perfect* keeps coming to my mind, but I don’t think she actually used that word. I’m just projecting.)

So given the bloodwork, my recent running, the utter lack of risk factors, she concluded, and kindly told me, that I have a calf strain/tear. And that I could probably still run – but just pain attention to pain and stop/rest if it gets worse.

Did I need to check out? Get a bill?

No. She would tell the nurses I was checking out, and if I had chest pains or trouble breathing or other symptoms this weekend, I needed to call the emergency number.

No bill. We are 100% covered with our health card.

**And yes, we pay higher taxes in Denmark (the research scientist rate, though, not the full Danish Citizen Rate, because we will also pay taxes in the US) but I am happy to pay those taxes for such high quality health care coverage for myself and the rest of the country. Denmark does not have tens of thousands of deaths annually caused my lack of access to health care. The US does. We must do better. **

So I headed home.

And on my walk home, I took many deep breaths and I was able to [more objectively] think through the last 10 days or so of my workouts. And laugh at how worried I was about DVT. And feel quite sheepish at my getting worked up over this.

I was home by 4:30.

If I’m going to be completely honest I would say I just wanted to justify going to see medical professionals to rule out DVT. To continue in this vein of honesty, I’m also glad I took the time to get it checked out. Now I can enjoy my weekend and breathe a whole lot easier.

**If I were to do it over again, I’d still go get checked out. DVT is absolutely serious enough to warrant it.

**Also, after re-reading this post, I realized that my flippant and sarcastic commentary about DVT could come across as making light of the condition. I am not at all. It is a serious and life-threatening condition – which is why all the websites say “if you suspect you have DVT, see your doctor immediately.”

My flippancy and sarcasm is 100% self-directed – because of the panicky thoughts running through my head and because of my inability to think at all rationally about my calf pain once I started reading that it could possibly be life-threatening.

Throughout the day, the likelihood my calf pain was due to DVT went from “very low to less than 0” but after reading about calf pain on the internet for a few hours, I had convinced myself I had it.**

Huge props to my favorite youngest sister Conoly for suggesting I write a blog post about this. I otherwise would have simply added it to my increasingly longer list of “future blog posts” that have an approximately 1 in 100 chance of getting written…

And just for more fun, and for those who read all the way to the end of the post. and for everyone very tired of all the selfies of just me (Like I am), here are a few pictures from our trip to Rome two weeks ago.

This child was SO INTO learning all the things about ancient Roman structures and the engineering of it all.
I’m going to have to borrow her notes to write my blog posts about it…
She’s going to be FOURTEEN, in FOUR DAYS y’all!!
Also, this was one of one pictures taken in Rome that she wasn’t throwing her hair across her face to avoid the camera.
MBH. My hero now. My hero always.

Featured

Skiing in the Bavarian Alps

Infinity thumbs up for the Bavarian Alps. Even though getting into the parking lot (the last mile) added 45 minutes to the drive. Even though the lift ticket line was pretty long (but ski rental line was short and moved fast). Even though Germans (many Europeans?) don’t know (or simply don’t care) about forming nice orderly lines to get on Gondolas and ski lifts so elbows get thrown, you get pretty jostled and if there is even 1mm of space around you/your skis, someone is going to move in. In spite of all these things, the Bavarian Alps are an incredible place to ski. Words cannot express how grateful I am to have had the opportunity to experience it.

I’ll back up just a bit since it’s been ages since I wrote a post -not that I don’t think about it constantly as I’ve mentioned before. But I think I’ve taken close to 1500 pictures in the last 6 weeks and every time I sit down to write the post about one day (usually a day with 100 photos) my progress gets halted by thoughts along the lines of “NO ONE is going to read a blog post with 100 pictures” Lucky for all of us, I only took 47 pictures on trip to ski in the Bavarian Alps.

I am tracking the posts I *intend* to write and one gets added to the list every day. Sometimes two get added. For example, we visited Mt. Vesuvius and Herculaneum in one day during our trip to Southern Italy before Christmas and although many may disagree, I feel both of those visits deserve their own post. But seeing as how each place had 100 photos, your guess is as good as mine as to when I’ll muster up the discipline to do it.

I am posting on my FB page pretty regularly so if we are not facebook friends and you’d like to be, please send me a friend request!

After Christmas we visited our dear friends, Svanhildur and Thor and their two daughters. They are from Iceland and lived one door down from us in Rochester before they moved to Munich, Germany 2.5 years ago. Our oldest and youngest are also good friends with their oldest, so it’s quite wonderful when we can get together. They visited us in early November. It was a grand time and added about 10 *posts to write* to my list.

They invited us to visit over New Years and round trip train tickets were quite inexpensive (not to mention a great way to travel) so off we went!

They are wonderful hosts and planned out a fantastic week. I am hoping to write a post about each day, but in summary we:

  • toured downtown Munich
  • celebrated New Year’s Eve with a traditional Icelandic meal (smoked lamb, potatoes in a delicious cream sauce, a purple cabbage dish, and green peas with bacon),
  • had fun with fireworks. I’m not gonna lie, fireworks make me very very nervous – so I didn’t do anything with the fireworks. I stood far away from the action and just reminded everyone every 3 minutes how dangerous fireworks are and that they need to exercise extreme caution.
  • visited the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site
  • took a trip to Salzburg, Austria where the Sound of Music was filmed.
  • took a trip to the Bavarian Alps to ski
  • visited the Andechs Monestery/brewery
  • rounded off the week with a trip to a pool for some swimming.

Also, it was marvelously sunny the whole time we were in Bavaria. My kind of weather – chilly and sunny. Not normal-chilly for Bavaria, much warmer than that, unfortunately. But in the 30s/40s (F). And sunny (there’s not been sun in Copenhagen for 2 weeks and none expected for another 2 weeks 🙁 )

There were lots of options for ski areas – a few that were within an hour’s drive – but we decided on this one because Svanhildur (expert skier) said that last year they had gone to different places for a week, skied the last day at this particular spot and had such a fantastic time, her comment was “oh I wish we’d skied here the whole week!” To us, that was a ringing endorsement.

The parking lot/mountain base we were headed to was an hour and a half away and lifts opened at 8:30am. So the majority of our group (87%) voted to leave at 7am. I was not in the majority, but decided it was better to not block the decision. We hadn’t exactly decided on a group decision making process anyway. And if I’m going to be perfectly honest, I was *ok* with leaving at 7.

Our family of 4 ended up leaving at 0705 and Svanhildur, Thor and co ended up leaving about 30 minutes later. They have most of their own gear and a 6yo, so getting everything takes longer.

And as soon as the mountains (and sunrise) came into view, I started taking pictures. I have loved the mountains (preferring them to the ocean) since at least high school, so forgive me for the possibly-not-best quality photos from the car.

Sunrise.
As we drove the view just got better and better. I had mercy on my family and did not take people photos until we were at the slopes. Folks were a bit grumpy and groggy.
Sometimes I can be sensitive to these things.
What’s cool about this particular photo is the smoke from the house. Notice how it rises up, then goes horizontal.
MBH noticed it first and then explained the physics behind it, which I understood as he explained it, then promptly forgot.
So it goes with just about every physics-related thing he patiently explains (again and again and again).
We’re getting closer to the mountains!!!!!

Although google maps told us the drive would take less than 90 minutes, turns out the rest of Germany had decided to go to this ski area (and this particular parking spot of the ski area) that morning too, so we hit bumper to bumper traffic about 2km from the parking lot.

It took us another 45 minutes to park.

One of my New Year’s resolutions is to tamp down on my [too often completely unjustified] irritability and anxiousness about things not going exactly according to plan (it’s particularly bad during traveling and in traffic).

So I had the opportunity to practice my *do not be a complete jerk* techniques as we inched along at 1km/hour towards the parking lot.

Deep breathing, and the mantra “It will be ok it will be ok. this *really* is sweating the small stuff…it will be ok it will be ok.” I think it worked, but have not asked those around me for their opinion on the matter.

This ski area has 3 different parking lots. One in Germany, one in Austria, and I can’t remember where the 3rd one was.

The deal is, you park, get your equipment (if you need to rent anything), buy your lift ticket, get in line, and scan the ticket at the turnstyle (they do not attach to your jackets but can be read through the outer pocket of a coat) and take the gondola up the mountain to the ski area.

We parked in the Winklmoosalmbahn gondola parking area. And no, I cannot pronounce that word. Fortunately, that is not a requirement for getting on the gondola.

See all those people in the crowd?
They are pushing forward to go through the turnstyle to get on the gondola. Lift and gondola lines are nonexistent.
Throwing elbows, cutting in lines, giving everyone around you a dirty look, is all part of the fun.
But In spite of the lack of orderliness, these lines move fast.
I think this line was only about 10 minutes.
They’d probably move faster if they introduced ropes and had one attendant managing the lines.
But apparently that’s an American skiing concept and there’s been no sharing of “best practices” across the Atlantic.
Lift tickets and equipment rentals in Europe also seem to be about half the price of American ski resort prices.
We made it!!! All smiles!
View from the gondola on the way up.
Clear blue skies, stunning views.
Obligatory selfie. On my left is the oldest. She is refusing to have her face in pictures approximately 95% of the time these days.
I think she’ll regret it when she’s older, but I try to refrain from saying so out loud.
Because if there’s anything that will make sure she *will never regret it* it’s me telling her she will.
In any case, we’ll have gobs of pictures of her hair and back to look back on with fondness.
And I will be grateful for the shoulder in this picture.

Even though traffic to get into the lot was really bad, the crowds at the bottom of the mountain looked over whelming, and the chair lift lines seemed long, once we were on the mountain, we never waited more than 5 or 7 minutes to get on the lifts. And most of the the slopes are long and wide so it did not feel nearly as crowded.

And the lifts are super fast too.

And ALL the lifts had a bar to rest your skis on – a luxury not found in many East coast ski resorts.

When MBH went looking through all the photos we’ve taken this last year for the 2019 Christmas Card, out of the thousands of photographs taken, would you like to guess how many had all 4 of us in them?

Three.

Three family photos in 2019. And out of those 3, approximately zero were ones we were all happy with.

Ugh. Key learning for the year. Take more photos will all 4 of us.

An aside. If you’re not on our Christmas card list and would like to be, please email me with your home address. neely.kelley@gmail.com.

We had to send them by direct mail order service this year so are now sending 2019’s card via email. But for next year’s card you’ll be on the list for a hard copy!

And just for fun, I added the picture of 2019’s card at the end of this post.

Here is attempt #1 for a 2020 family photo.

Notice how the youngest is different from the rest of us?
No?
She is not wearing her helmet.
Everyone wears a helmet in Europe. Adults and kids alike. Not sure if it’s the case in the US (i think mostly just children?) but in Europe everyone does. The youngest HATES THEM. And blames her older sister for having to wear one. Because last year when we went to Snowshoe Mountain in West Virginia, we didn’t make them wear one at first and the oldest fell and hit her head.
Thankfully she was fine, but after that we made them wear helmets and wore them ourselves.
So the youngest gets to blame the oldest for this misery we put her through. EVEN THOUGH the youngest is the MOST responsible when it comes to wearing her bike helmet.
So when we started out on the slopes she was being surprisingly stubborn and defiant about it.
Taking it off at every opportunity, skiing down the mountain holding it in her hand while glaring over her shoulder at us.
But we told her too bad.
She would wear it or not ski for the rest of the day. And if she chose to do that, then one of the parents would have to go with her and she would owe us $$ (or, to be more accurate, €€) for not only her lift ticket and equipment rental, but for the parent’s as well.
And we would garnish her allowance until she paid us back.
Still, she was surprisingly stubborn about not wearing her helmet.
Because they know that when we makes such threats, we are fully prepared to follow through on them.
Finally, about 30 seconds before I dragged her over to the gondola with me to stop for the day (We’d skied one slope) MBH realized what the problem likely was.
She was probably hungry.
It was 11am and she hadn’t eaten anything since 0630.

So we skied down to a lunch spot.

The area right outside Mosaralm where everyone leaves their skis/snowboards/poles. That view. I couldn’t get enough of it.
Another view of the Alps. Just because.
It wasn’t really that cold. Upper 30s and sunny. So we sat outside. Anything for Vitamin D from the sun. We are also taking Vitamin D supplements.
The youngest housed her 10lb plate of spaghetti with meat sauce.
We think she’s going through a growth spurt.
Her appetite is impressive these days.
The oldest didn’t have time to duck away, so settled for a half smile/half grimace.
MBH and me. Unfortunately I don’t think it’s possible to both take a good selfie and the impressive view at the same time (or I’ve just not figured it out yet).
So I switch it up.
Fun selfies, then view photos.
It started getting cloudy while we were at lunch, but the views were still spectacular. Key learning – it was harder to find our skis and poles here than it is to find our bikes at any Copenhagen train station.
Look who’s wearing her helmet and isn’t trying to kill MBH and I with her glare!
ENOUGH WITH THE PICTURES.
LET’S GO MOM!

You may have been wondering at this point “so what happened to Svanhildur, Thor and co?!?!?! By 1pm we weren’t sure. Our cell service had stopped working about 45 minutes before we got to the mountain road traffic jam – long before we got into the parking lot.

Also, our phones were super confused. Every 30 minutes we kept getting simultaneous messages from our cell carrier “Welcome to Germany!” “Welcome to Austria!”

All day long.

Like the cell towers in the two countries were fighting for us to use *their* tower.

With the end result that neither country’s cell tower had the honor of doing so. And so we couldn’t communicate with each other or with Svanhildur and Thor.

HOWEVER, at 2pm we saw them!!!! And here’s the photo to prove it!

Like ships passing on the mountain. They were just heading out from a break to ski (and had really been slowed down by the traffic, so had gotten on the slopes about an hour and a half after we did) and the youngest and I were heading in for some hot cocoa.
But we snapped a quick photo to prove we’d actually seen each other.
Ah, hot cocoa, warming up.
And even though you can’t tell, the views out those windows are amazing.
View from the porch of the hot-cocoa afternoon break spot.
The youngest was SO MUCH HAPPIER and herself after lunch and hot cocoa. The eldest and MBH had split off to go ski intermediate slopes. In Europe, intermediate slopes are *red*, beginner slopes are *blue* which caused some confusion for us initially, but we quickly adjusted.
For non-skiers, intermediate slopes in the US are *blue* and beginner slopes are green.
On both continents, advanced slopes are “black”
In my younger years I could ski black diamonds (college up to mid-20s). As I approach middle age, I stick with the beginner slopes. The youngest is happy to accompany me.
I have parented this child her whole life, so you’d think I would *know* that when she gets impossibly stubborn and just not herself, it’s not just her behaving badly – because she doesn’t really – that she needs one of 2 things – food and/or sleep. Maybe one of these days I’ll be quicker on the uptake.
And here she is, all smiles.

Because we didn’t have cell service, we had just agreed to all meet back at the car after the lifts closed down at 4pm. There were two ways to get back to the car: Ski all the way down (blue all the way) or take the gondola.

I had forgotten this and had it in my head that the only way to get down was by the gondola and it closed at 4:30.

So when we got there at 4:00, this is the sight that greeted us:

No orderly lines, hundreds of people.
I count 4 glares, how many do you see?

So to pass the time, I asked the youngest if she’d smile and give a thumbs up for the ski day.

This was her response:

Glare #5.
Not impressed with this gondola line.

I really really wish I’d thought to look at the map to ski down instead of wait in this line.

MBH and the eldest did do this and reported that it took about 45 minutes through beautiful, quiet, woods with hardly any other skiers.

Of course not, they were all crowding around the gondola.

If you recall from our hike up to Mt. Ulriken in Bergen, Norway, the girls and I were pretty scared of the lift/gondola that carried us down the mountain – affectionately referred to as the “swinging death trap.”
For whatever reason, this gondola did not inspire such fear (at least not for me).
You can barely see the little machine on the left side of this picture, in front of the grey haired man in the grey coat. This is where your ticket gets scanned and you go through the turnstyle. This introduces a little bit of order to an otherwise wholly unorderly process.

We made it on the gondola and given spirits were quite high, I asked the youngest if she would give me the kind of glare she was giving me earlier in the day when she didn’t want to wear her helmet.

I’d had a bit of mercy on her and didn’t try and capture her behavior and mood (except for the one family photo).

This was her response:

I can be super grumpy and ticked off and ridiculously stubborn, but can also have a sense of humor about it.
Yay! Back in the parking lot!
Also “omg mom ENOUGH WITH THE PICTURES.”
I do believe she will be grateful for this one day.
4:30pm. The rising moon at dusk.
The setting sun in the distance.

So all in all an amazing day skiing in the Bavarian Alps. Although we had hoped we’d be able to ski for at least 2 days on our trip to Munich, one day was perfect for our trip. And of course it makes me want to move here and stay permanently. Pretty much everywhere I’ve ever visited becomes a place I dream about moving to and staying permanently. And I can enjoy just dreaming about it.

And here’s our 2019 Christmas Card.

Designed and written by MBH.

Featured

Boy Scout Camping, Suttetrae, Insekthotel and Dragons!!

The youngest has joined the local troop of Boy Scouts of America International and this past weekend the troop went camping. Other troop leaders couldn’t stay the full 2 nights, so MBH (My Beloved Husband)and I signed up to go. I was going anyway, because Boy Scout policy says any time there is a female troop member, an adult female must also be present.

The oldest, upon realizing she might have to go camping, – as quickly as she could – found a friend whose parents agreed to let her stay with them the weekend. She and her friend even got to go to a pop concert by themselves in Freetown Christiana Saturday night.

As for the rest of us…

We had intentionally left all our camping gear in Rochester – I shudder to think what it would have cost us in excess baggage to bring it all.

So I sent out a plea to parents in the troop and other parents I know asking if anyone had sleeping bags and mats we could borrow.

The troop had tents, cooking equipment, other camping gear.

Deepest gratitude to the Chris, Jennifer, Ros, Luke, Corina, Steve, Gregor, and Brady for loaning us sleeping gear.

When we planned transportation to get to the campsite, we thought we only had one car and not all 8 people + gear would fit.

So the plan was to put as much gear as we could in the car, and then take the train and a bus (and then a short walk) to the campsite.

MBH, the youngest, and I had about a 6 minute bike ride to the meet up station.

So we packed up the bikes.

Admiring the packed bikes. This is the best EVER. Two of my favorite activities, combined – biking and camping!
I accidentally took this photo too soon. MBH was on his way to smiling for the camera. Unfortunately, I only took one. The youngest is [mostly] always ready with a smile.

An hour or so before we were to meet up, I had gotten an email from a dad of one of the troop members and while the dad himself was not going camping, he very kindly offered to drive whomever needed it. I have to say, thank the stars and heavens.

Because if we had had to find our way to the campsite in the dark, from the bus stop, it would have taken us hours and hours. It took us at least 15 extra minutes just to find the parking lot. The few minutes (maybe 10-15) after we parked the car, and wandered around the site looking for our campsite, wondering if we were even in the right place, were sufficiently worried-filled (at least for me – I cannot speak for others – but as many of you know I’m quite and anxious traveler, even if it’s camping 30 minutes away from Copenhagen). It was cold, 100% dark, and foggy.

BUT! we found it!! YAY!

A bit blurry, but the campsite has been located! About 500m from the parking lot, so the scouts are hauling stuff in.
First things first, a campfire!
A little tricky since it was super wet and foggy.
But, the troop leader who joined us Friday night had thought ahead and brought dry wood. Thank you Steve!!!

While the scouts were building the fire, cooking dinner, setting up the campsite, I wandered around a bit (I was a few thousand steps short of my daily 10,000 steps goal). And saw this curious tree, that had stuff hung all over it. Pacifiers, some ribbons, a lot of plastic. I had seen a tree like this before and because this one had a sign “Suttetrae” with a description, and I had a bit of time on my hands, I took a picture, then googled it. Google comes through 98% of the time and I swear will own us all one day. Anyhow, here is what the wikipedia page shared:

Suttetrae – A teat tree. “A teat tree is a tree on which children hang their teats when they have grown from them or when their parents and educators like to see the children grow from their teats.”

The suttetrae at night.
Suttetrae in the daylight.
While I have to say that I’m not really a fan of the aesthetics of suttetrae’s, I greatly appreciate, what I [think] is a collective rite of passage for Danish children for giving up their pacifiers.
I imagine doing it this way probably makes it far easier for Danish kids to relinquish pacifiers than say, American children. How many American parents stress out over their children’s attachment to pacifier?
I got rid of pacifiers early on, but the youngest sucked her thumb until one day she just decided to quit, in the 3rd or 4th grade. Thank goodness, because I had no idea what to do if it was going to continue.
The suttetrae explanation reminds me of the rite of passage I learned about from friends living in Munich – for kindergarteners in Germany – where children are “tossed” out of their kindergarten building at the end of their kindergarten year.
Ok, ok, it’s not quite as dramatic as it sounds – the teachers gently swing the children onto a mattress.
But the children LOVE it.
A fun rite of passage.

We were all in our sleeping bags by about 8:30pm.

Some took our time getting out of them in the next AM. It was quite cold and this closer-to-middle-age-than-I’ve-ever-been-before-body just doesn’t take to camping sleeping pads like it once did.

Gregor, the troop’s chef, and a very good one at that, was up at 6:30am [still dark!] to get the coffee, bacon, and eggs started and ready by the time everyone else was up.

Unfortunately, the stove did not cooperate right away, so he cooked in the daylight.

And had some moral support.

Luke, keeping the chef company.
This is the coffee. I had never heard of cowboy coffee before (we take our 12 cup espresso maker, always) and was impressed.
Our sleeping shelter, the Vikinghus. Very well made. Beautiful wood carvings. And a nice living roof! And yes, those are huge bags under my eyes. Camping out in the woods is worth it.
MBH. Waiting for coffee.

After breakfast, it was time to light the fire.

A few (who shall remain nameless) went to look for firewood [all wood around us was super wet] and came back with a wheelbarrow about half full.

They told us they found a lovely supply of firewood underneath the “Insekthotel.”

It struck us a bit odd that that’s where they would keep extra firewood. But in any case, the scouts got the fire lit…It was cold, upper 30s [for the Americans reading this, 3C for everyone else].

A few folks [who shall remain nameless] went back to the Insekthotel to get more firewood, and came back to say that while the piles underneath the Insekthotel looked like they were just set up perfectly for campfires (kindling in the middle, split wood on the ground on the left), in fact, that material was insekt habitat.

If I were an insekt, I’d totally want to live there – just not on the ground level.
Perfect kindling right there.
Perfect split logs for a fire!
Right!?!?!?!?

However, the 2nd time around members of our group (who shall forever remain nameless) told us there was a Dane who set them straight on their error. And fussed at them to tell them that in fact, everything underneath the structure was *part of* the insekthotel, and what we had used for our fire was actually insekt habitat. Damn damn damn. So sorry little insects. And I mean this – no snark, no sarcasm. Insects around the world are in serious and significant decline and need all the help we can give them.

And while I admit I was relieved our somewhat open sleeping shelter had zero bugs (visible to my eye, anyway), it also had me thinking a whole lot about the impact humans are having on the natural world.

In any case, the actual firewood pile for campers was located and brought back to the campsite. In hindsight, maybe we should have added some split logs back to the habitat.

After collecting the firewood, and warming up a bit by the fire, the group headed out for a walk in the woods to explore the park.

Heading out for a stroll in the woods. In case you were not already aware, Denmark is an incredibly flat country. Makes for fabulous and fast cycling and biking, but not so great for serious hiking enthusiasts (like the youngest).

We walked for about 45 minutes, early on passing another group of campers who told us that “over there a ways” there are the remnants of ancient viking burial site. We tried to find it, to no avail.

This is the 2nd campsite in the park. From what we could tell there were only 2 accessible from the parking lot where had been dropped off.

Three members of the group had to leave to get back to Copenhagen by 11:30 or so, but those of us who remained decided to keep walking.

We took a group photo before parting ways.

All smiles. We’ve warmed up a bit.
And being in nature is just good for any soul.
The remaining crew.

After wandering around a few trails in the woods for an hour or so, we headed back to the campsite.

There was this one place where the trail crossed a fairly busy 2-lane road. There was a path that went underneath the road with a sign with an arrow and a bike on it.

The group decided it was better to try and avoid the cars on the road than to try and avoid the cyclists on the path going under the road… Danish cyclists will run you over…

Gregor sprinting across the road. Stan keeping an eye out. I kind of love this shot. Didn’t even have to use a burst to get it…

We got back and it was lunch time. But before lunch, we had to light the fire. Not only is a campfire fun and relaxing, it was also an important addition this weekend as it was cold, and damp [maybe I mentioned this once or twice or 1000X already? I think we are more obsessed with talk of the weather here than talk of the weather in upstate NY].

Teamwork. Don’t Fall In!

After fire starting and lunch, the scouts were looking for things to do.

Now it was time for some roof climbing shenanigans.

Gregor first, the youngest on her way.
Stan enjoying a marshmellow before attempting the climb
We have conquered the Vikinghus roof!
Stan on his way!
Before deciding it was too slippery
The youngest walking along the ridge of the roof.
Carefully coming down. Each in their own way.
Gregor: I’m descending this way…
Campfire, yes – but if you look closely you’ll see a pink marshmellow. Actually, I think it’s supposed to be red as its a Jule marshmellow (Christmas marshmellow) And holding that stick is a little Danish girl.
She, her sister (not much older) and their dad were visiting the park and stopped by our fire.
Danes have a reputation for being reserved, not quite as open and friendly as say, Americans (who, admittedly, can be kind of over the top outgoing).
But in my experience I’ve found lots of Danes just willing to come on over and strike up a conversation.
Like this dad and his daughters (his wife was on a girls-weekend with friends). They stayed for about 30 minutes, chatting (the dad – the girls were quite shy).
I’m still at a point of being reluctant to ask folks to take their picture for my blog. I need to be braver and just ask…And carry little business cards on them to hand to people when I take their picture…
*Sigh* all the good ideas I have that tend to just stay “good ideas.” In this case I did not ask, so I have a picture of one of the Jule marshmellows, the little girls were roasting.

After lunch, MBH and I decided to go out for another walk. Given Danish weather, we’ve decided that if it’s not pouring, we are going to be outside – especially as daylight is disappearing fast.

So we headed out to explore the park and the forrest. Discovered lots of things – logging areas, old growth forrest, horseback riding trails, mountain (“mountain” is a bit of a stretch – more like off-road) biking trails, maple trees being tapped for syrup, frisbee golf course, a cut-your-own Christmas tree farm, and a very very cool playground.

Came to an area that had been logged, and young saplings were growing.

I assumed when we walked into that grove of pines, it would be another area being grown for logging. To our surprise we found it was actually quite old growth forrest. No underbrush at all.

Bright green moss everywhere. It was beautiful. In spite of the gray.

How many more pictures of me are you going to take today? Me: not sure yet.
Smile!
Another section that had been logged as well. But earlier. The saplings here are a bit bigger.
Until I went back and looked at these pictures, I hadn’t noticed how different the 2 sides of the path were. But there you have it. I think old growth on the left and logging trees on the right. And I could be totally wrong about this. Feel free to correct me.
Two horseback riders. Another instance where I wish I’d asked them if I could take their picture. I think the horse in the front was a Friesian or Friesian cross – a stunningly beautiful horse breed.
Trees marked for logging.
Sign says “contaminated soil, do not walk on” It was a fairly big area and made us curious to know what the contaminant was. We couldn’t tell and did not find out…

Made it back to the camp site, fairly close to the park’s very cool playground, with DRAGONS!

Dragons! ROAR!
Viking trying to control the dragons [and subsequently giving children a rope to balance and walk across].
Climbing rocks with wood carvings on top.
Hello hatching baby dragon!

Of course this place doesn’t just have fun and games for children. It also includes a frisbee golf course!

Here’s one hole, in the middle of the Christmas tree farm.

The Christmas tree farm

Christmas tree farm!
Alas, the two days for cutting them yourself are when we will be out of the country. Hopefully we’ll find A Christmas tree to put up.

After all this exploring (we covered 8 miles in all, on Saturday) we headed back to see what the scouts were up to.

Managing the campfire of course!

It is 4:30pm in this picture.
I was already ready for bed.
Note the 3 people in the background. 3 Danish teenage girls maybe 14 – 16 years old. Just out for a night camping by themselves. I love the freedom and responsibility given to young Danes. There’s no way I would have been able to go camping by myself with friends when we were 15!!! Turns out, the skill of lighting a fire and cooking food over it is taught in kindergarten… Awesome… The campsite and shelter was definitely big enough for both groups. The food they cooked (over a fire) looked amazing, stews, and crepes and more…

We went to bed fairly early, and while I have to say I was a bit worried the chattiness of everyone in the shelter (our group + the Danish teens) would go on all night, by 2055 everyone was quiet.

It poured rain all night – makes for lovely sleeping weather. Although I still think my days of sleeping comfortably on a camping mattress – no matter how thick and luxurious, are over.

We slept in a bit (7am) but Gregor started the bacon and eggs and coffee as soon as we woke up.

Conversation at breakfast was fun.

“So what is worst thing you’ve ever eaten?”

Gregor: “Kangaroo tail – served like steak, but tough.”

Stan: “Well, one day, some friends of mine and I just took a bunch of leftover meat in the fridge – bunch of different kinds of sausages, put them in a glass, poured in some milk and sugar and then blended it up like a milkshake.”

We immediately declared Stan the winner. And I am going to laugh [while holding back gagging] forever at this story…

Then it was time to pack up and head home. To get it all to the parking lot, we were most grateful for the wheelbarrow.

Headed to pick up 2nd load.
And look who’s resting on her laurels while Dad schlepps the stuff? Thumbs up for the camping weekend {and reading her book in the camp chair while Dad hauls the stuff. I think this was mostly due to the fact that the scouts really did handle most everything for the weekend, so MBH was happy to contribute. Does not excuse the youngest from relaxing at this particular point.
Stan and Gregor, final wheelbarrow load. I also really love Stan’s hat.

Stan’s dad Alex very generously picked us up on Sunday too. I shudder to think how we would have gotten back by bus and train. Well, the answer is, we likely would not have without recruiting a few sympathetic passengers to help us.

A huge shout out and thank you to Alex.
Alex is Stan’s dad, who so graciously drove us up Friday night and came and picked us up on Sunday morning.
The [camping] Kelley’s in the back of the van, headed back to Copenhagen.

I was sorely tempted to take a long afternoon nap when we got home and had finished unpacking, but was then reminded of how little daylight we now have, so decided to have a cup of coffee and head out for a run (ok, ok, run/walk – working my way back up to “running”).

And on my way home, lo and behold I saw the sunset.

And just had to take a picture.

All in all a lovely weekend, exploring, observing, experiencing, and living. All things I’m really enjoying doing here in Denmark and hope to do more of when we move back to the U.S.

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Mt. Ulriken at sunrise, stone stairs to Heaven, and the Swinging Death Trap. Bergen, Norway. Day 3: Part 1.

Our flight back to Copenhagen was at 2005 Sunday evening. So we had a full day to continue exploring Bergen. And after the wonderful hiking up to and past Mt. Floyen, on Friday, and after doing some reading, I really really wanted to hike to the top of Mt. Ulriken.

Mt. Ulriken is another highly recommended hike in Bergen and is considered the highest peak in the town.

And although I’ve already decided I’d be perfectly happy to retire to Bergen, I doubt we’ll be going back in the near future. So I wanted to make every effort to make the most of it.

The staff person at the Bergen Tourist Information center said ‘Oh, Ulriken, that’s a tough hike, real trails, not wide pavement.” She was clearly skeptical about my plans to get up and back in one morning.

So I became 100% committed right then and there.

The challenge was convincing the eldest and the youngest to also commit – and we were on a bit of a tight schedule Sunday morning:

Getting to the trail head would take about 25 minutes – walk to bus stop, bus ride, walk to trail head.

The hike would take anywhere from 1 – 3 hours.

I couldn’t be sure.

And we had to check out of our Airbnb by noon.

So we needed to be back by 1100 to shower and pack up.

So after pouring over the bus schedules – for some reason, google maps did not work with the public transportation system in Bergen.

So I had to take the olden-days approach:

  1. download pdfs of the bus schedules
  2. make sure the schedules I looked at were on Sunday and not M – F,
  3. consult the light rail schedule,
  4. understand the Mt. Ulriken cable car schedule (plan was to hike up and take the cable car down),
  5. Repeat steps 1 – 4, approx. 10 x to get a full understanding of all the possibilities of timing and make contingency plans B, C, D, and F.

And after all this, I was still not sure that we could take the bus to the nearest bus stop, walk to the trail head, hike up Mt. Ulriken, take the cable car down, and then catch the bus back to the city center to get back to our Airbnb by 11am.

I knew we would need to leave quite early. Well, maybe we didn’t really need to, but that’s how I roll when I’m a traveler on a tight timeline.

It was not as hard to convince the girls we would need to get up at 6 and leave by 6:30am, to catch the 6:48am bus, so we could be sure to hike up and catch an early enough cable car down the mtn.

They were awesome sports about it.

Which I see as an indication of a) my persuasive abilities and b) (really just this) how much they like hiking.

I still cannot persuade them to go with me to the Louisiana Art Museum. “NO ART MUSEUMS THEY ARE BORING AND STUPID”

But hiking to the top of the highest peak in Bergen had appeal for sure.

I convinced the girls needed to get up by 6am and catch the 6:48 bus.

Well, the eldest actually said “Can you wake me up at 6am and I’ll decide then?”

I was 95% sure she’d get up and go with us. Even though she is very much a teenager when it comes to sleeping.

But I was counting on her FOMO overcoming her desire to sleep longer.

It wasn’t until I read that sunrise is actually at 0830 that I reconsidered the timing.

“Maaaaybe it’ll be better if we catch the 0748 bus.”

So we slept in until 0645

Left the apartment at 0730.

Even though the bus stop is only a 5 min walk, I had to stop on the way and buy the 24hr Bergen transportation card.

What if the machine on the way to the bus stop was broken?

And I had to find another machine to buy the card?

Heading out. 0730. All smiles.
That’s Mt. Ulriken in the background.
Blurry picture, I know. But that’s where we’re headed! The excitement is building.
Made it to the bus stop with 4 minutes to spare.
I would have preferred 10 minutes to spare, but 4 worked.
Oldest is still waking up.
I’m here mom, Peace.
Ok, I’ll smile for another picture before going back to my book (on the Libby App, it’s fantastic).
The bus driver was telling me that the route up had changed (I wasn’t sure if it was the whole route up the mountain, or just the route to the trailhead)
In any case I saw this sign and thought “Yay! a sign! This way!”
The moon. 0810.
The eldest was a bit grumbly that it was still dark outside.
But I think it’s mostly because she feels obligated to be grumbly so early in the morning.
So the first sign was great.
Then there were no more signs.
So we walked in the wrong direction for about 10 minutes…
The youngest’s comment about this canopy of trees on the hospital ground was
“These trees look like the Whomping Willow, but smaller.”
The cable car building!
See those jogging men?
Yeah, I’m pretty sure they ran up the whole mountain.
Lots of people passed us running. Norwegians are impressively sporty and fit.
I do not think all 1/8 of my Norwegian blood is quite that sporty and fit. Maybe half of it.
So 1/16th sporty and fit.
7 minutes in
Steep stairs!
No problem!
Let’s go!
10 minutes in – time for a short rest.
10 minutes of stairs and trails so steep, if I had fallen I’d have rolled all the way down the hill…
Two women [safe assumption they are Norwegian] out for an early morning hike as well.
By this time (15 minutes in) the eldest was fussing about my not knowing the way. We’d made one wrong turn already, and had seen one more sign that didn’t have the name of our trail on it.
I was 100% sure we were on the right path, but to appease and calm the eldest, I asked these women.
They said “yes, the shortest route will be the one with all the steps. Just look for the steps”
Words that would haunt us until the end.
Not really.
The hike was amazing.
“Mooooommm, it is so steep”
This picture does not adequately convey how steep it was.
Minute 17
“Can we take another short break?”
The eldest did not ask if we could rest.
She just sat on the next bench on the path.
See that drop off on the gravel path?
Almost as steep as our apartment semi-ladder to the 2nd floor in our apartment in Copenhagen.
Bergen getting a little further…
Some fall colors.
Minute 20
The steps!
We found the steps!
Minute 25, another break.
Also, I should add, the eldest kept RUNNING up these stairs…
All 1/16th of her Norwegian blood must be the fit and sporty kind.
Bergen is getting further away.
I kept an eye on that wisp of smoke – already quite far, but it kept getting further and further away.
So Many Steps.
But look! it’s the tower!
We’re almost there!
Yeah, these steps look about the right steepness.
Do you see the wisp of smoke?
Still smiling.
Out of breath, sweaty and tired.
But I was loving it.
I wish I could do this every morning.
35 minutes in.
Smiling for real at this point was a bit more challenging.
We’re sweaty, the steps just kept going, and our legs were quite tired.
40 minutes in
Can you find the whippet?
A guy was hiking up with two whippets and a toy poodle. Like all the other Norwegians on the steps/trail, he caught up to us quickly – the youngest had sat down for a short rest and the poodle saw her and started barking and charged her. The dogs were off leash.
The guy was right behind the dogs, and the youngest said she was kind of scared, but the dog ended up stopping and just barking at her.
The guy said the dogs were his moms and he was taking them out for a “walk” And he was very very apologetic for the behavior of the black poodle. The whippets made me miss my greyhounds.

Note the gentleman (maybe in his late 50s/early 60s) coming up the stairs, breathing hard, and swaying too.
The eldest even asked “mom, do you think he’s going to be ok? I’m a little worried about him.”
He was fine.
And totally passed us (picture below)
45 minutes in.
OMG I THOUGHT THE TOP WAS RIGHT THERE BUT WE HAVE A FEW HUNDRED MORE STEPS!!?!?!??!
GAH
And at this point, we’re so high and it’s so steep, my own palms are sweating and my heart is racing – not from the exertion, from my fear of heights…
But it was not as steep as it was going to get.
I can still see the wisp of smoke…

It was about this time that I got a text from our Airbnb host letting me know that because no one had booked the place for that night, we were welcome to stay there until 5pm.

That made our day so so much easier.

We wouldn’t have to worry about locking our bags at the train station.

We would also have enough time to visit the Aquarium.

And if we missed the 1034 bus we could just take the 1104 bus and have time for showers, etc.

Does the angle of that swinging death trap [a.k.a. cable car] scare you as much as it scared me?
It felt a bit like we’d just walked the stone steps to heaven.
The North Sea/Atlantic Ocean is beyond the last line of hills.
Bergen
The man we were a little concerned about, passing us.
A badass like all the other folks hiking (or running!) up the mountain that morning.
Minute 50.
Another quick break and snapchat post.
The view is just beautiful.
It is only at this point that I’m noticing how steep and high the steps were. And no railing.
My palms are sweaty just remembering it.
I have a fear of heights.
My legs were shaking (from fatigue but also a bit from fear) and I had to practice my deep slow breathing so as to not panic and trip and fall over the side.
THE TOP!
WE MADE IT!!!
LET’S GO FIND THE SWINGING DEATH TRAP!
Another picture at the top.
There was a cafe at the top, and a little patio.
This is a photo from there.
You can see the North Sea/Atlantic ocean in the very far distance.
Also it was here that a mom, who’d carried her two year old all the way up, was playing. I was in awe and wanted to take a picture but also didn’t want to be rude and intrusive.
I know the view is stunning, but I don’t really feel like smiling right now. Mom, sometimes I just need a teenage moment.
The view on the other side of the top.
Looking in the direction of the hike we’d done on Friday.
On the left, in the distance, is the Eiffel tower we hiked past on Friday.
Cable car building.
Note the time. 09.00- 21.00.
I took this photo at 0945 and was a bit nervous because the door was locked.
Why isn’t it open!?!?!?!?!
Where was the cable car!?!?!

Turns out the “off season” hours had started.

But this information hadn’t been posted anywhere.

And wasn’t on this door.

The mountain top staff arrived (by cable car of course) a few minutes later.

Thank goodness we didn’t leave at 6:30am and count on a 9am cable car ride.

It was cold and windy at the top and we would not have been able to wait until 10am for it.

We would have had to walk back down.

Which frankly I would have preferred to do but as the youngest rationalized:

“Walking back down will be tiring and terrifying.”

“Taking the swinging death trap will just be terrifying. So let’s do that.”

Ok. Fine.

Waiting for the cable car.
I’m not so sure about the cable car, but I’m going to distract myself by being annoyed with my headband…
Maybe that character on the cable car is supposed to inspire confidence in all the little children?
I really really don’t like being in this swinging death trap.
View of Bergen from the cable car.
I’m not going to look.

My palms were so sweaty, my heart was racing.

I really really didn’t like being in that cable car.

None of us did.

Well, the two Norwegians standing at the front of the car were totally cool – opening the window, peering out the top, taking pictures, laughing and talking and enjoying themselves.

But 5 or 6 years ago, I learned my lesson of reassuring nervous children about things, the time we went to Niagara Falls and decided to take the Maid In the Mist boat trip underneath the falls.

The eldest (at that time maybe 8 yo) had developed a fear of boats (I only learned the reason for this later) and protested the whole way.

She kept saying “I don’t want to get on the boat. I want to see it first. I don’t like boats. I want to see it before I get on it.”

The way the Maid in the Mist on the American side is set up, it’s impossible to see the boat before you buy your ticket.

So like any loving and patient parent, I told her I’d already bought her ticket and she had to go with us.

Then I spent the next 10 minutes – as we made our way down the elevator, down the path, to the dock, saying “look, they’ve been doing the Maid in the Mist Tours for 60+ years, ~8 months a year, every 15 minutes, 10 hours a day. They know what they are doing. It’s going to be just fine. They know what they are doing.”

So we get on the the boat and the eldest proceeded to go crouch on the floor next to the life vest chest and stay there. Her telling me how scared she was, me telling her it would be ok. That the Maid in The Mist folks were experienced boat operators.

I will take those words to my grave.

The engines cranked up, and the boat started to pull away from the dock.

And suddenly, there was this horrific clanging grinding metal-tearing-sound, lots of shouting and yelling and gasping.

And of course everyone on the boat (maybe 100 or 150 people – off season – and it was a chilly October day) ran to one side of the boat.

And I thought “Oh shit, what just happened?”

Oh. They’d just forgotten to UNHOOK THE GANGPLANKS.

BOTH OF THEM.

One gangplank got pulled off the boat, dropped in the water and sank.

One passenger commented “Well somebody’s gonna get fired.”

And at that point I was thinking “Well damn, did a hole just get put in the side of this boat? Is this boat going to capsize and I’m going to have to swim for it with my oldest and youngest children?”

Nope. Thank goodness.

The tour continued. The eldest stayed crouched on the floor. But when we got back to the dock we only had one gangplank.

And this may be the reason the eldest has a few trust issues with me.

In any case, never again will I offer assurances of the skill and safety record and experience levels of tourist modes of transportation.

And all I could say last Sunday on the cable car was “I’m sure it will be fine.”

Looking back up the mountain from the cable car.
Another view of Bergen as we’re coming down.
Arriving at the lower station. Thank God.
There it goes! Thank the stars and heavens we’re not on it.
The sign at the trail head.
We are strong and mighty!
And we caught the 10:34 bus back to the city center!
We made it!
I’m very happy to be alive right now.

So we headed back.

To take showers, pack up, and head to the Bergen Aquarium.

Day 3, Part 2.

Stay tuned!

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UNESCO World Heritage Site, Sword Fighting, and Fjords. Bergen, Norway. Day 2.

If you read yesterday’s post (totally ok if you did not, I’m sure many took one skim and thought “TLDR.” ), you’ll know that MBH flew out bright and early Saturday morning.

So the day for the girls and I revolved around the fjord cruise. It was the one thing I had booked for us to do while in Bergen. And yes, it took me a long time [too long] to figure out which cruise to take. There’s so much information out there and lots of options.

I had settled on a 3 hour cruise, leaving at 2pm. And guess what travel error I almost made booking the cruise? (a couple of weeks before our trip)

Paying for TWO adults and 2 children. Gah.

Fortunately, because I have developed some intentional habits over the years, I stared at my order for a good while before realizing my mistake. And caught it before paying for a ticket for MBH who would be in Copenhagen at that time…

So the eldest and the youngest and I took it easy Saturday morning – recovering still from the 14 miles of hiking/walking we’d covered the day before.

Even though we took it easy Saturday morning, we had some time to explore some of Old Bergen, hoping to see at least one museum.

On our way from our Airbnb to Bryggen (Old Bergen). Morning photo of Mt. Ulriken.
I’m not quite sure why I took this photo. I suspect what I was thinking was capturing the stunning mountain scenery all around Bergen.
The youngest: Happy to indulge mom with a smile for the camera.
The oldest, clearly not in that phase of her life at the moment.
“FINE, I’ll be in the picture but I WILL NOT smile.” Bryggen (Old Bergen), in the background.
We ducked through an archway off the main street into this alleyway (?) in Bryggen. I hadn’t read a whole lot about Bryggen before the trip (shocking some, maybe). But I’ve read up a bit as I write this post – It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is impressively old for a woode structure. Many built in 1704! If you are interested, you can read more about about it here.
It’s a cool old place.
The stairs to get up to this 2nd floor had a rope on it – that had been tacked to one side. Because there were no other people up here, the girls were convinced we weren’t supposed to be up here. The youngest is trying to convince me to go back down. Afraid we’ll get, I don’t know, in *trouble?* We’ve lived in Denmark too long. Very much a rule-following society.
Me, now on the 2nd floor by myself.
This place is 320 years old.
One of the museums the girls agreed to go to.
Sign on the door says it’s open at 11am. I took this picture at 11:45am. Doors were locked. We were a bit confused.
There was a Norwegian mom and her son also hoping to see the museum. We knocked on the door a few times, tried to call the number listed on the door.
This is the son trying to get the attention of folks beyond the wall.
We were unsuccessful, walked all around, to no avail.

We decided to take a break at a recommended Baker Brun in Bryggen.

And started with a cinnamon roll and an almond biscotti while waiting for the coffee and hot chocolates.

And what hot chocolates they were!!!

She’s going for the “perfect” social media expression.
heh heh heh. All mine.
Doesn’t this look delicious?
Thumbs up for this hot chocolate.

Mom, I don’t like that picture. Let’s try again.

Ok, I actually like the first one better.
Mom, really. I don’t know what expression you want me to make.
The moment she discovered this blog.
Mom, are you taking a picture of me?
MOM! STOP!
Fine. I’ll just hide my face.
I am so full. But I’m not going to waste it. One.More.Sip.
There is a grown man in this vehicle. It is so cute. And it makes me chuckle every time I see one.
We intended to find the entrance to the fortress.Walked all the way to one end without finding it.
If only I’d looked at a map before assuming the entrance would be “This way”
A tour group! Let’s follow them!
A quick check of google maps said we were heading towards the fortress exit.
The exit! Doesn’t look like we have to pay to get in.
Excellent.
Let’s go check it out.
The top of Mt. Floyen from the Bergenhus Fortress.
Tree canopy in the fortress. It was a really beautiful place to walk through.
As we walked towards the entrance, there was sword fighting practice in the courtyard…
A view of the mountain from the fortress.
There are a lot of tourist shops in Bryggen.
This was a fun little ceramic tic tac toe board.
Dogs win!
Sorry [not sorry] Mr. Kunzer.
Heading to the dock to wait for the cruise.

But first someone had to go to the bathroom. If you’ve traveled in Europe, public bathrooms can be hard to find. I figured there would be one near the tourist information center – Which was just 2 minutes away.

We saw signs for the bathroom.

But had to pay with credit card to use them/open the door.

Unless of course someone comes out of the stall, then you can just go in.

I did pay.

I live in Denmark now.

Following all rules is a requirement of Danish residency.

Even when I’m in Norway.

This is the view coming out the bathroom. I know, I know, “you’re taking a picture leaving the BATHROOM?”
yes.
Because the mountains around Bergen are just amazing.
Everywhere.
Younger sister shenanigans in the square just in front of the Bergen Tourist Information Center.
We got to the line for the boat 40 minutes early instead of the required 20 minutes.
Getting in line so early meant we got the good seats
A table right by the window…

Picture taking commenced as we were leaving the harbor.

A view of Mt. Floyen from the boat.
A view of Bryggen from the boat.
Mt. Ulriken from the boat.
Power lines – Some may say they ruin the landscape.
I could only marvel at the ability to build electricity transmission infrastructure in such rugged terrain.
The fall colors really stood out.
We kept passing these small groups of houses/buildings that seemed quite lonely and isolated.

There’s one very narrow part on the fjord.

I didn’t get a good picture as we were passing through, but took this one looking back.

I’m very annoyed at the continued blurriness.

A selfie.
Because pictures of just landscapes can get boring.
I do recognize that photos of the same people over and over and over again might also get a little boring.
I took this one at the front of the boat.
It was sooo windy up there, folks only stayed for a few minutes at a time.
I was also afraid my cell phone would get blown right out of my hands…
See that tiny white speck below those cliffs? That’s a decent sized white boat.
A closer look at the white boat.
The mountains were just huge.
An old and small settlement.
The white building on the left used to be a school house. I couldn’t quite catch the rest of what the guide said about this little place.
I think its name might be the same name as this particular 3-hour fjord cruise.
A view of the white school house as we passed it.
The captain (or whomever was sharing info to all the cruise passengers) made the announcement that we were going to the smallest town in Norway. I thought this small group of homes was that town.
I was wrong.
The waterfall at the smallest village (Population wise) in Norway.
A village called Mo.
There are around 300 people that live there.
The town of Mo.
The road between Bergen and Mo.
I’d be scared to drive on it.
This was a random boat launch.
Maybe for everyone within an hour or so’s drive to have a place to put in their boats? Because the fjord hills are too steep to do it everywhere?
I don’t know.
Your guess is as good as mine.
Do you see the car on the road? The picture is a bit blurry.
Returning to Bergen.
Dinner at Inside Rock Cafe a highly recommended burger joint.
Well, actually, as the bartender told us, it’s a rock bar that serves food.
Only the eldest ordered.
I think the youngest was still full from that hot chocolate.
Another picture of the Inside Rock Cafe.
The bar.
We were grateful there weren’t any rock concerts happening while we were there.
I would go back for the food.
Especially now that I know the ropes: Seat yourselves, order at the bar.

Day 2 in Bergen Norway was wonderful. We definitely missed MBH and wish he could have been with us.

Writing this all out makes me want to go back.

Maybe even retire there.

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Mt. Fløyen, the Eiffel Tower, and the Yellow House. Bergen, Norway, Day 1.

Planning the trip.

One of the things we had planned to do while we’re in Copenhagen is travel and explore Europe as much as we can. The list of possible places to go has already far exceeded the time we have to do it.

I’m always asking friends and acquaintances what they recommend. And of course asking the girls and MBH what they are interested in. Amsterdam, [anywhere in] France, Iceland, the Balkans are all top of the list.

We also have a budget. Living in Copenhagen is quite expensive – although one huge relief is that we don’t have to worry about going in to debt from health care costs. And for me, the higher taxes (or, investment in the public good, which is what it is) are definitely worth that.

So when I got a notification from Norwegian air about “fall deals,” I excitedly looked for tickets to any of the above mentioned places during the 2nd weekend of the girls’ fall break. The first weekend we visited Legoland with friends who visited us from Rochester. It was also a fantastic weekend. I’ve got a lot of blog post catching up to do!

Anyhow, back to the looking at the “deals” offered by Norwegian air – only to find out that tickets to those places during the week that all Danish schools are closed, were still quite expensive.

Of course they were.

I was sure I could get a better deal, so I kept looking.

The place that had the least expensive tickets was Bergen, Norway.

And while Bergen wasn’t at the top of the list, I had asked friends who visited Norway this past summer – where they would recommend we go in Norway for hiking – and their recommendation had been Bergen (Thank you Lisa and Katie!)

So, I booked tickets for all 4 of us, only to go add this to our family calendar and see that MBH was scheduled to leave for an invited speaking gig in Dresden, Germany Sunday, early afternoon.

Dammit.

Fortunately, I had 4 hours to cancel the flights and get a full refund.

So I did.

Then rebooked the flights for the girls and I same as before, and booked a ticket for MBH for Thursday night to Saturday night. Departure time, 7pm – thinking, “Wonderful, we’ll have 2 full days in Bergen together. “

Or So I Thought.

I’d actually booked him on a 7am flight out of Bergen Saturday morning.

Dammit Dammit Dammit.

Stupid 24 Hour Clock!!!

Or should I say stupid US for not consistently using the 24 hour clock like the rest of the world.

I could also say “Neely, really, how long have you been traveling and known that air travel uses the 24hr clock?”

But I digress.

So when I saw 7:00 – 8:30, I immediately assumed 7pm. If only there had been a 0 in front of the 7 and the 8:30. I didn’t learn about this incorrect assumption until a week or two before our trip, so I couldn’t change it. These are the kinds of travel mistakes I make more often than I’d like to admit.

Next step was to find a place to stay. I did some research, and more research and finally booked our Airbnb right in the city center.

There were 3 options for getting to our Airbnb:

  • Light rail – $8 total – takes the longest – 50 minutes
  • Flybussen – $25 total – 30 minutes –
  • Taxi – ~$55 total- 20 minutes

After much consideration (waaaay too much, honestly), I decided Flybussen was the best option for us – because our flight was getting in at 11:15pm.

In spite of the fact that I lived in Central Africa as a Peace Corps Volunteer for more than two years (almost 20 years ago), have traveled a lot since I was 14 (Europe, West Africa, Central Africa and Southern Africa mostly), and traveled alone many of these times, I am a really anxious traveler.

Just ask MBH or my Peace Corps post-mate Laura…

All the more anxious when my teen and pre-teen are already off and on not always so happy about the move to Copenhagen, and not excited about this particular trip – as it was nowhere on their “list of places we want to travel to in Europe.”

In addition to that, the first thing Danes and Norwegians and others I talked to said when I told them we were traveling to Bergen was, eyebrows raised, “Bergen, the rainiest city in Norway.” “Oh, Bergen, it’s really rainy there.”

Great. We live in the rainiest and cloudiest European capital city, and I’ve planned a family trip of outdoors activities to the rainiest Norwegian city.

Spoiler alert, the weather was glorious and the trip was amazing.

The hiking was incredible, and morale 98% of the time we were there was higher than it’s been in a while. The 2% was after strenuous hiking- hungry, tired, hurting feet. Perfectly understandable.

So, back to my travel anxiousness. Things I get anxious about when planning travel:

  • Booking a place to stay in the wrong city.
  • Booking a place to stay on the wrong dates.
  • Booking mode of travel for the wrong dates.
  • Booking mode of travel to the wrong city (Rochester MN and Rochester NY have the SAME AIRPORT NAME).

I’ve made each and every one of the mistakes above more than once and I absolutely hate it when it happens and this has led to my developing a few travel OCD habits over the years.

Things I get anxious about when actually traveling:

  • Confusing AM and PM Time of Departure: Think 700 with 1900 or 630 with 1830
  • Arriving to airport early enough. My anxiety eases by arriving at least 3 hours early. For domestic flights. I know I know, this is really absurd, but like I said, I’m an anxious traveler. I can usually convince MBH and children to get there a little more than 2 hours early.
    • So for our 2155h flight, I convinced everyone to leave our apartment at 6:45pm. The 150S bus then Metro Line 2 to Kobenhavn Lufthavn. Takes about 40 minutes.
Waiting for the 150s bus at 6:55pm. Also notice the number of bags. We were very limited in our luggage so packed super light.
I think this is the lightest we’ve ever ever packed.
As our bus pulled up, MBH reached in his pocket to get his Rejsekort. And also found his pocket knife. That would definitely be confiscated at security. So he had to go back to the apartment (about a 4 minute walk) – and told us he’d catch the next bus.
This is EXACTLY the kind of situation that *I* think justifies planning to get to the airport 3 hours early. Not everyone agrees with me, but that’s ok…
  • Getting from airport to the airbnb in Bergen and not missing the earliest Flybussen. We had to run a bit through the Bergen Airport, but made it to the 2330h bus. Which runs every 20 minutes. Not a big deal during normal waking hours, but that late at night it makes a huge difference.
We made it! Didn’t have to wait 20 more minutes for the next flybussen!
  • Getting the key and getting to our Airbnb apartment. The host and I had swapped texts – there was a key lock box and he’d given me the code. But I kept thinking “I hope the box will be easy to find”
  • For this small detail, I decided to take a deep breath and just trust I’d be able to find it easily. And sure enough:
I have never seen an Airbnb sign like this before. But it sure was helpful. I absolutely love Airbnb but am aware of tensions in municipalities between neighbors, hotels (Airbnb is stiff competition) etc. There’s often no street-level advertising. Clearly not an issue here! And no, I didn’t take this picture the night we arrived. Too tired and didn’t think to do it. So took a picture on our way out the next morning.

We took it easy on Friday morning. Slept in a bit since we’d gotten in so late.

The plan was to spend the day hiking/exploring around Mt. Floyen. I’d spent [probably too much] time scouring guide books and websites, to get a good sense of the hiking trails so I could plan out the day perfectly.

But the best I’d come up with was: the trail head to get to Mt. Floyen was in the Bergen City Center and the trails were well marked and there were a bunch of trails from the top of the mountain.

And I was not at all willing to just wing this hike to Mt. Floyen for several reasons:

  • my days training with and volunteering for the Southwest Virginia Mountain Rescue Group while an undergrad at Virginia Tech.
  • getting quite lost, hiking alone on a day hike, in the Bavarian Alps in my early 20s.
  • MBH is an Eagle Scout. And what is the Boy Scout Motto?
  • Be Prepared.
  • Quick clarification in case you’re imagining MBH always telling me to “be prepared.” He doesn’t, never has. He is far far too laid back for that. I’m just using this to justify my own OCD issues.

All these things left me unwilling to ever wing a hiking trip – no matter how short or simple.

And the one thing many webpages had mentioned was the Bergen Tourist Information Center.

So that was our first destination.
And I had to take a few pictures along the way.

Fall colors were gorgeous. We’re ready for a day of hiking.

“So Mom, how will we find the tourist information center?”

Just look for the big “I” sign…It’s pretty universal…

Another tip for traveling through [maybe much of? maybe not?] Europe:

In many places, instead of a physical line, there are these little machines where you get your number:

Tap the screen. A piece of paper with a number on it comes out. You look above the counter and wait for your number. I like this system. I have one of these “clearly I’m not from here and don’t know the ropes” moments about once a day. Whenever I’m traveling and in Copenhagen

Maybe this is in other parts of the world too? Maybe in the US? I just haven’t seen them in very many places, but they are everywhere in Denmark: Pharmacy, Bakery, Library.

The tourist information center staff were so very helpful. Gave us a topological map, directions to the trail head, recommendations for taking the more scenic (but more strenuous) route to Mt. Floyen.

It was time to head up the mountain.

Trail head a 5 min walk from Tourist Information Center

In the winter, this is an ice skating rink. What an incredible view ice skaters have.
10 minutes in to at least 5 hours of hiking…the oldest: “Daaad, is this going to be all hills?” hahahahaha.
Oh Eldest…
Although I must say, she is quite the hiker. Her sister has done a whole lot of hiking in the last several years and has the gear, boots, pants.
The eldest hasn’t done much hiking at all – and for this hike wore her [brand new] jeans and sneakers – not exactly ideal hiking attire, but she’s fast, and agile.
And I have to hand it to both of them, we didn’t hear another complaint until we were about 30 minutes from getting back. And by then we were all pretty beat.
So we are here…
First shot of Bergen Harbor. A gorgeous day.
Thanks, youngest…
Same shot.
It was a selfie or picture of the view. I tried multiple times and just couldn’t get both in one photo…
We stopped a lot to take pictures.
I’ll warn you now, there are lots and lots of pictures of mountains.
“Why can’t Copenhagen have this? Also, can we just move here instead?”
“If Copenhagen had this, I’d be happier” The youngest loves hiking and camping and backpacking. Due in no small part to Girl Scouts, and Tori’s wonderful leadership in planning such outings for girl scouts.
Dad! Get DOWN! You’ll FALL!
Mom! Tell Dad to get down!!! Standing there isn’t safe!!!!
I took this trying to convey how not scary/high this particular rock was. Big fail. Because this actually looks scary. In truth, it was only about a 6 foot drop to a big ledge.
A little bit of scenery included in this photo. Kinda blurry though…
Bergen from trail to Mt. Floyen.
Many of the websites and books I’d read said the trails were well marked. Here is an example. Trail signs at the top of Mt. Floyen.
Another quick break. Almost to the top of Mt. Floyen. All smiles.
Dad telling the girls about his hike from Chamonix, France to Zermott, Switzerland – including the part about his falling down a glacier. I try not to think about that story.
European playgrounds are awesome.
Super excited to hike the Vidden Trail!!
A bit of history on the Vidden Trail.
First break on the Vidden Trail. Bergen is getting further and further away.
Steep, but wide path
Time for lunch! A perfect spot.
Until just now, I’ve been calling these birds (very common in Denmark and apparently Norway as well) “some kind of crow.” Without knowing for sure.
Well, I finally got around to googling it – and this is a hooded crow,
AKA “Hoodie” aka “Scottish crow” aka “Danish crow”
In any case, these two hoodies stayed very very close to us. Waiting for some food to be thrown at them (which we did not do) and/or waiting to clear out any scraps we left behind (we did our best to not do this either).
Lunch view. And the avian opportunists.
All smiles. I think we can get to that cairn up on top of that ridge. The building in the back is a cafe that I’m guessing is open during the summer, but closes in August/September until spring. Or maybe cross country ski season?
Trying to convey how big these mountains were.
Yes! We will make it to that cairn at the top of that ridge! We are strong and mighty!
Above tree line. To her right (not in the picture) is a structure that henceforth will be referred to as “the Eiffel Tower” Not sure where that cairn we saw an hour or so ago went…
Darn, this photo didn’t turn out. But still putting it here. A small side trail just away from the Eiffel Tower.
Just to give you a sense of scope and scale. That’s our trail and is about a 15-20 minute walk from where I was standing.
Somewhere in all the websites and guidebooks I read, I remember someone saying on clear days you can see a glacier from the Vidden Trail (it’s between Mt. Floyen and Mt. Ulriken).
I can’t remember the glacier name and can’t remember the webpage either…
This is the trail we were on for much of our hike. Because it was a clear day, and clear days are rare in Bergen, we were pretty determined to see this glacier.
Martha and Doug up ahead.

Maybe you’re wondering about the yellow house by now?

Here it is. I took this as we were walking down the trail from the Eiffel Tower.

So to get to where we thought we’d have a better view of the glacier, we had to hike down a bit from the Eiffel tower – back to below tree line.
The yellow house became our point of reference for where we thought we needed to hike for the glacier view.
Hike towards Yellow House. It was a bit muddy.
THE YELLOW HOUSE IS RIGHT THERE! WE ARE SO CLOSE! YAY!!
The little sign to the left of Doug says “Viking” which confused (and amused) me.
Oh – so we’re going to find a viking in this land of vikings if we go this way…
Turns out it was a sign for the Vikinghytten “Viking hut”
At this point we had veered off of the Vidden Trail onto a side trail, marked on our topological map, in search of a glacier view.
Still on the way to the yellow house. Plenty of ups and downs and rocks and mud. We were now doing some pretty technical hiking.
Overheard from the oldest in this rather steep (and muddy) section “UGH, This is like Parkour!!”
Her sister has been taking Parkour for a couple of years now and also the oldest is a huge fan of the Office.
If you haven’t seen their Parkour Parody, you should watch it. Pretty hilarious.
Ok, I can stand up a little now.
We made it to the top! (one of the *tops* at least)!!
Photo from the top. Couldn’t stop taking pictures…Even though I recognize that after a while picture after picture after picture of mountains (that’d can’t fully convey the vastness and beauty of it all ) gets a little boring and repetitive.
Just wait until my post about our boat trip up the Fjord…
See the brown building in the back? Yeah, I know, not the yellow house. It’s the Vikinghytten.

And alas, no picture of the glacier because there was at least one ridge between us and that view…

Exchange between the two siblings that I’m still laughing about.

Oldest sibling “Does anyone see a stick? I need a stick? Dad, do you see a stick?”

Youngest, immediately: “Sibling, we’re above tree line, there aren’t going to be any sticks.”

And also,

WHERE IS THE YELLOW HOUSE!?!?!

WHAAAT???????

HOW DID THE YELLOW HOUSE GET ALL THE WAY OVER THERE?

In all seriousness, if there’s one-lesson I re-learned yesterday is how easy it is to get lost in a place like this. Looks are very deceiving, and can be dangerously so.

Camera Trick. I zoomed in to make it look closer.
It wasn’t.

So we’re on the top of this one ridge and hadn’t seen any signs of animal life (human or otherwise) since the Eiffel tower. And we’d had convos about what animals might be living up here, how the streams and lakes we kept passing were likely super clean and free from giardia because there weren’t any cattle around.

But as we’re taking in the views, a jangling sound entered my consciousness.

So I started looking around, and sure enough across the valley (opposite from where we’d come from) there was a herd of something – sheep? cattle? that had cowbells on.

From the bells (*cow* bells) and the color and the shape I could make out from a distance…I’d say the animals were cattle (and yes, I know that not all sheep are white).

But I’ve never really thought of cattle being above-tree-line-grazers. But really I know next to nothing about this.

Even though I was an animal science major in college, “alpine animal husbandry” wasn’t a lesson or class I remember taking.

In any case, I took a picture.

As I’m typing this out I’m realizing I did not get a picture of myself or the oldest at the top. Darn it.

But I did take a few pictures of our view.

Another scenic photo as we started the hike back to Mt. Floyen.
This is the Vidden Trail Eiffel Tower.
This photo is taken from the Vikinghytten as we started on our hike back..

I think it was a 45min – 1 hr walk from the Vikinghytten to the Eiffel Tower.

In hindsight I wish I’d kept a better eye on the timing of all this hike. But I was so taken with the day and the beauty of it all, I just didn’t think to keep track. I do know that we left the Airbnb at 1o:30am and made it back to the Mt. Floyen funicular right at 5pm.

This was a super super muddy patch and although we didn’t see a single person on this side trail, clearly it’s hiked enough that someone took the time to kindly put planks and big rocks down so hikers don’t sink to their knees in mud.
I was hiking in my keene sandals, so was very grateful.
Don’t judge, I know hiking boots would have been better, but I’ve been having trouble with ankle tendonitis and plantar fasciitis in the last couple of years and the Keenes are the one pair of shoes I own that feel the best on my feet. Even hiking for 14 miles.
Except they’re sandals so no protection against wet and mud.
Viking, that way —>

If you recall, at some point we had decided to try and get to the yellow house because we thought we’d have a better view of what we thought was the glacier.

If only I’d looked carefully at the yellow house on the hike up, I’d have noticed the big ridge behind it that would block any glacier view. Sigh.

Another annoyingly blurred photo.
I do not know what I do to make some pictures turn out crisp and clear and others that look like this one.
If you have an inkling, please let me know.
I took this one the hike down.
Silhouette of the girls as sun is setting. It was about 3:30pm. Days are getting noticeably shorter throughout Scandinavia. However, although sunset starts early, it takes a long long time to fully set. And as MBH pointed out, although Bergen is more north than Copenhagen, it’s much further west, so sunrise and sunset will be later…
Sun setting on our hike down. That’s Bergen in the distance. And the Atlantic ocean beyond that last line of hills.
My hero, waiting for me.
At this point, we’d been walking/climbing hills for about 5 hours and in spite of mass quantities of Advil for a seriously pulled muscle in my neck (had happened that morning- I was just getting out of bed. Ugh.), my feet were very sore and my legs were very tired.
And under those conditions, I find hiking down a steep hill more challenging than hiking up. So I had slowed way way down.
Girls were walking on ahead.
Bergen is getting closer and it’s getting darker.

I knew I was close when I passed this troll forest.

This adorable troll forest is about 100 meters from the Mt. Floyen cafe. The Danes and the Norwegians love their trolls. And I find them fun and interesting as well. We’ve got giant trolls throughout Denmark, this troll forest, and other cool troll-things…
Post 12 mile hike snack at the Mt. Floyen cafe.
Thank goodness at some point MBH walked ahead with the girls to get to the cafe about 6 minutes before they closed. If they had waited for me it would have been closed.

We decided that it was in everyone’s best interest to take the Mt. Floyen Floibanen (funicular) down.

Even though it was scary steep.

Waiting for the Floibanen.
Oh Dear Lord that funicular is at a scary angle.
If we hadn’t already paid for our non-refundable tickets I’d have walked on out of that station, popped a few more Advil, and walked down the mountain…
On the funicular. I felt even more nervous than the eldest’s facial expression is conveying.
The youngest’s smile says “I’ll smile for the camera but i’m super nervous about this funicular ride.”
Thankfully the trip is only 6 minutes.
I can practice deep slow calming breaths for 6 minutes.
Post hike shot of Mt. Floyen.
Super duper grateful to the Tourist Information center for giving us this topological map. Also, fun fact, in the wintertime, Norwegians use these trails for, wait for it, wait for it, CROSS COUNTRY SKIING!
That is hard core right there.

So I’m 1/8th Norwegian. My paternal great grandfather was Norwegian and I believe it was his father who immigrated to the US- South Dakota- in the mid 1800s.

And while I often attribute my love of cold weather and winter to that 1/8th Norweigan blood, I give a hard pass on “cross country skiing on the Vidden Trail.”

My palms are sweating just thinking about it.

Anyhow, back to the hike. Our first leg of the hike was from the Tourist Information Center to Mr. Floyen.

And from Mt. Floyen along the path marked in red to Vikinghytten.

The smallest red circle is where we left the Vidden trail in search of the yellow house and a view of the glacier.

While there were trail markers, with this kind of hiking, hikers should always have a topo map.

Day 1 in Bergen concluded with take out from Pingvinen Restaurant. I knew we needed some heavy food for dinner and this seemed like a good one. Good reviews on yelp.

Turns out it’s fine dining and fine dining restaurants often don’t like to do take out. The hostess kind of gave me a hard time about this. But the youngest was adamant about getting take out.

I thought our dinner was delicious and filling. But it was very Scandinavian. So different than what we’re accustomed to. Mashed potatoes mixed with flakes of roasted fish and covered with bacon.

Baked hake with mashed peas and lingonberries (may sound weird – who eats mashed peas!?!?!? with lingonberries?) And I learned a few new ways to prepare peas and potatoes and fish.

I know why this photo is blurry. I had to take it quickly because everyone wanted to start eating already.
As I took it the oldest was giving me dagger eyes “Seriously mom?”
(Ok, confession, she was giving me dagger eyes because 10 seconds before I took this picture, I had fussed at her to get off the couch, and off her phone, and come eat dinner.
Then I said “hold on, I have to take a picture.”
I think I earned those dagger eyes…

So, to conclude Day 1 in Bergen Norway.

It was extraordinary. I’m ready to go back. And highly recommend it to anyone who can make the trip.

If we’d finished the trip with just this one amazing day, it would have been a success.

But [spoiler alert] we had 2 more amazing days where we:

  • explored old Bergen,
  • walked through the Bergen fortress,
  • took a stunning fjord boat cruise,
  • took an early morning hike to the top of Mt. Ulriken (tallest peak in Bergen)
  • visited the largest aquarium in Norway

Stay tuned!

Featured

København Climate Strike

My best effort at correct pronunciation: “Ko-ben-hound”

Many of you probably heard about the youth climate strikes happening around the world Sept 20th to Sept 27th.

As a former climate movement organizer, I’ve personally become mostly cynical about protests and rallies and their impact.

But in this particular case (and honestly in many other protest and march opportunities I do attend), I commit to going because I feel strongly about supporting young people in their efforts to address the climate crisis. Many of whom are refer to themselves as “The Last Generation.”

For anyone interested, there’s a beautiful digital storytelling project about The Last Generation of the Marshall Islands.

A few weeks ago I looked to see if there was a climate strike in Kobenhavn. There was, scheduled for Sept 27th.

I RSVPd.

But declined to sign up for email updates.

Next step: Invite the oldest and the youngest to go with me.

Over the years they’ve gone to a number of protest – when they were younger they didn’t have much of a choice (plus we had strollers).

But as they got older, they became more annoyed at protests and marches that started late, and lasted “forever” with “boring” speeches and loooong, *very tiring* walks.

And although I was once an enthusiastic marcher and protestor (and even got arrested blocking methane shipments once) and wanted them to be too, I realized that in order to not turn them off of activism entirely, I need to just ask them if they want to participate, and then respect their answer.

Especially for these youth climate strikes. I get very angry when adults claim to *support youth climate strikes* but don’t take any action to support the youth.

I call these LSS “Lip Service Supporters.”

I get especially angry when adults ask and expect young people to take care of the climate crisis. They didn’t create it, but they are inheriting it. Adults should NOT EVER be asking them to shoulder the burden.

As far as the adults being horrible and trolling and attacking and criticizing these young people?

There is a special spot, in a very very hot place, for those people.

Anyhow, for the Kobehavn strike on the 27th, the youngest said “sure” right away.

The oldest was non-committal…

Until Thursday, the day before the strike, when a bunch of her friends decided to go. Then she asked me to please submit an absence request form to the school for her. Which I did.

A big thank you to Copenhagen International School for their position on, and support of, the strike yesterday.

Monday, the school’s director sent out the following message: “As a school that educates champions of a just and sustainable world, we support the aims of the “global climate strike” on Friday and understand that our students are passionate about climate change. we will record absences as usual but there will be no consequences for students who decide to attend the event at Ofelia Plads

I needed to find poster board for our signs. Not as easy here as it is in the U.S. where I can either walk to the CVS 5 minutes from where we live and buy poster making supplies or drive to [any big box store or grocery store ] to buy them at a cheaper price.

Getting poster board in Copenhagen required a bus trip to the city center to meet my friend Jessica. I could have biked, but since I figured out how to use my Personal Rejsekort Card (and the 4 weather apps I use cannot seem to accurately predict the downpours) I’ve gotten much much lazier and prefer buses and trains.

The public transportation here is amazing.

Plus, the walking required helps me meet my 10,000 daily step goal. Biking does not.

Anyhow, we found the poster board. And I decided to not buy any markers at $3 each. I knew we had at least a black and a blue one at the apartment. That would suffice.

The youngest and I made our posters Thursday evening.

Side 2 “There is no Planet B”
Side 1: a message for NY Governor Cuomo to #WalkTheTalk on climate change. #HeatpumpsNotPipelines, #stoptheWilliamsPipeline and lots of others things Governor Cuomo needs to do on climate change.

The oldest started her poster. Aimed to finish it Friday morning, but ran out of time. So I finished it for her. She drew/wrote this one. All I did was trace it with blue marker.

A bit edgy.
I support edgy.
Especially when it comes to climate change.
And especially, as MBH pointed out, 2 years from her b-day in February she’ll be old enough to buy alcohol in Denmark (!!!!!!!!!) Not that we’ll be here then, but boy how time has sped up. As parents of older children always told us it would (when the girls were babies and toddlers and we were drowning in parenting).
Confession, this slogan came from another youth climate strike sign. The oldest had started the sign with “I’m struggling for…” but didn’t finish it before having to go to school Friday morning. I texted her to find out what the 2nd half was supposed to be.
She had told me before leaving that morning, but like any adult who’s overconfident in their memory abilities, I didn’t write it down, assuming I’d remember.
I didn’t remember.
They aren’t allowed to keep their phones with them at school and I was running out of time.
So I just finished the sign.
I’m honestly not sure the oldest feels this way, but I know so many young people do.
It makes me sad and angry.
And one big reason why I set aside my own cynicism to show up for this global climate strike.

Just as I was about to leave to meet the youngest at school – she texted me “mom, can my friend come with us?”

Me: sure, as long as it’s ok with her parents.”

youngest “ok, she texted her dad, it’s fine.”

So I met them at the school at 11am and we walked to the nearest train station. Nordhavn St.

Waiting for the train. It was pouring rain, so we got a bit wet.

About the red sign “Chequitania, Bolivia is burning! Save the Forests!”

Several weeks ago, news about the horrendous wildfires in the Amazon Rainforest, caused by farmers clearing land for crops and cattle, made headlines around the world.

Brazil’s forest fires received lots of media attention, Bolivian forest fires less so.

Having a sign is pretty important – a visual for photos and the media, but creativity and witty sign slogans aren’t my strong suit. So I had turned to social media for suggestions.

I asked friends if there were signs we could make to support their work. My friend and former colleague Ana, who is Bolivian, wrote this “Neely, Please make ones for the Amazon forests:
“Bolivian forests are also burning!”
“Save the forests, save the air”
“Chiquitania, Bolivia is burning. Save the forests, save democracy”
We’re in dire need of international attention and support. The forests and people are dying, and the government is not helping, it’s condemning this area to its death. We need as much awareness as we can get!!!!!🙏🙏🙏🙏

So I did.

And Ana sent me this heartfelt message when she saw my posts on social media ” Neely, I took the liberty of sharing this image on my fb wall. I was so excited to see this, and let my friends and family back home know there are others creating awareness of this in Europe. As you can see if you visit my fb wall, I’ve been posting as much as possible about this disaster. It’s really impacted me, it’s affected me so much, because I know what’s at stake. These forests have always been a source of pride for me, a source of marvel. Seeing them burn has struck my heart… It does bring hope that our crisis is being heard and supported, even if we have a ferocious government refusing to ask for international help. They don’t want attention brought to their man made disaster. Thank for from the bottom of my heart!!!!

If you’re not sure how/what you should be doing for any cause you care about, simply ask friends and colleagues how you can support them and their work.

Then follow through.

We transferred at the Norreport Station and all over the station were these ads:

Even if you don’t read/speak/know Danish (like me) this ad translates fairly easily “30% less CO2 from new milk boxes. CO2 neutral milk in 2050.” (Ok, ok, I did have to look up the words Fra Nye Maelkekasser.”)
Dairy is a huge contributor to CO2 emissions (one of the biggest) and I greatly appreciate the efforts (yes it is an ad campaign, still I appreciate it) of this company in addressing its carbon emissions).
We all gotta be reducing carbon emissions and aiming for carbon zero.
Arrival at Ofelia Plads.
Red poster message “White people! Listen to AND FOLLOW Indigenous, Black, Latina, African people ON CLIMATE.”

A word about the red poster message. Greta Thunberg, the young climate striker from Sweden has received an enormous amount of attention (and hate too – which she has handled with dignity and courage) and has become a leader in the climate movement.

But before Greta, there have been young Indigenous, Black, Latina, African and other non-white people fighting for their land, their communities, their futures, for climate, for clean water, around the world, who have been largely ignored.

I think it’s incredibly important to acknowledge what Greta has done for the climate movement. It is equally, if not more important, to recognize those who have been doing the work for even longer but who have not received the same media attention.

Here are a few articles that do just that.

We found the oldest and her friends – who had left school at 10:30am to make sure they got to the rally on time (about a 30 minute trip via train and metro from school).

Although my eyebrows raised a little bit at these plans, I didn’t say anything about really not needing to be so early.

I did not want to dampen her enthusiasm.

But there was this text exchange at 11:30am:

Oldest: “Mom there is no one here. There are more crew members than people.”

Me: “You’re 30 minutes early.”

Oldest: “Yeah, but still.”

me: “People don’t go to protests early.”

Protest Lesson #1 (no one arrives early) learned. (maybe)

“If I only show my eyes maybe no one will recognize me”
“THIS IS IT MOM!! THIS IS THE LAST PICTURE!” (daggers are shooting at me through her skull). And this was the last I saw of her at the rally. Ok, not entirely true. This was the last time we spoke, I did catch glimpses of her throughout the rally.

But at 1:45pm, I got this text: “Mom, what time do I have to be back. We left the protest to get food”
me: 2:30pm
“Mom, we weren’t going to *leave* until 2:30 because we were starving and we are going to protest a bit more after eating.”
Me: (laughing out loud at “protest a bit more after eating.” )
Then texting back “the protest ends at 2.”
oldest: “mom, PLEASE? Can I not leave until 2:30?”
me: Fine
3:28pm: “Mom, my phone broke so it took me an hour to get home (school).”
me: Why weren’t you with your friends?
oldest:”I was, but they were walking very slowly so I couldn’t leave and then they stopped for even more food.”
So, bless her heart, she ditched her friends, with no phone, to get back to school.
And she made it all by herself.
I’m quite proud, I gotta say.
Kayakers with a water sign
The climate strike drone. The whole rally was in Danish (given the prevalence of English here, i was really hoping/expecting an English translator. Alas, there was not. But when the MC pointed to the drone, and said something [in Danish], the whole crowd turned. Given the crowd sounds were positive and not boos, I think it was not the Danish CIA or NSA.

Give me your best glare….

Glare fail.
better.
There. That’s it.
How dare you indeed climate deniers and fossil fuel industry and decision makers doing things every day to worsen climate change.

Family photo time

Me: “My love, no smiling please, climate change is nothing to smile about. You need to look serious.”

MBH:

As someone who thinks constantly about what humans have done/are doing to this planet, and about how much suffering climate change is already cause, and will continue to cause, it can feel wrong to laugh.

But we have to live our lives and laugh and smile when we can.

The photo above was one of those moments.

This is my friend Jessica and her daughter. Jessica helped me find poster board and has inspired me to start running again! (Photo credit, not me – When I find out who, I will add. I borrowed this from Jessica’s facebook page)
Crowd photo 1. A very white crowd. Not unexpected. 87% of the population in Denmark is of Danish descent. It’s a very white country.
Crowd photo 2
Crowd shot 3
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American teens in Europe, the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, and dinner at Chin Chin.

If you have read the list “Hidden Europe: The Top 20 sights you’ll see when traveling with your teen,” (snort) you will have a greater understanding of the Saturday afternoon argument that is threatening to become routine in our family.

The weather was glorious (and based on all 4 weather apps I consult, I was 93% confident it would stay that way), I spent a few hours scouring guide books and googling for a fun family activity.

“Why don’t we go to [insert name of palace, museum, gardens, beach] here.

MBH “Sure, sounds great. Let’s go.”

Teen and Pre-teen: “NO! [that activity you spent hours researching] is b-o-r-i-n-g.”

Me “Come on! It’ll be super fun. Let’s go! We’re living in an amazing European capital, we need to take full advantage of it! We can’t just sit around in the apartment all day! Plus, more than one person has told me it’s their most favorite museum. Do you know how lucky you are to be here? Do you know how privileged you are? PLUS, you’ll get into this museum for FREE!”

“NO! Museums are BORING! We’re TIRED, we need DOWN TIME and REST. We LIKE sitting around in the apartment! AND WE KNOW WE ARE PRIVILEGED!!!”

Glares.

To be fair, their school day starts at 8:30am and ends at 3:30pm Monday through Friday. Their commute by bike is 15 to 20 minutes. And the way home Every.Single.Day includes a long stretch of what must be the country’s fiercest headwinds, in a country known for “having headwinds everywhere.”

They are also involved in quite a number of after school activities – football (there’s a fun story about how the youngest showed up for her first game last week, played, the team won 9 – 1, and turns out, it was THE WRONG TEAM hahahahahaha) piano, parkour, hip hop dance – and have handled the move away from Rochester and transition to life here remarkably well.

So maaaaybe I should cut them some slack.

But not right away.

This back and forth goes on for about 30 minutes. I don’t get back up from MBH for forced family fun. The stubbornness only strengthens, getting closer to diamond-level hardness and given my improving ability to pick my battles, eventually, I relent.

But I also have the last word “FINE. Give me all your screens, NOW!” Glares, protests, angry retorts.

But I do not give in. Looks who’s got diamond-quality stubbornness now…

Screens are collected, hidden, MBH and I head out.

This afternoon’s proposed activity was a visit to The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art . To get there we bike to the Hellerup train station, take the 029 train 20 minutes to Humlebaek stop, then walk about 12 minutes. It’s a sunny, crisp, fall day (do leaves in Denmark change colors?) and an overall lovely journey.

Incidentally, the name of the museum has nothing to do with the State of Louisiana in the United States. Something about it was the name of the first estate of the guy who founded the museum. The explanation wasn’t as interesting as I’d thought it might be so I didn’t pay close attention.

The very first exhibit is that of the artist Pipilotti Rist.

Posters outside the museum of the different exhibits.

We both found this exhibit just, well, weird and opaque and unpleasant. Didn’t understand it at all. I really didn’t like it and wanted to get out quickly.

Maybe that’s the point?

I snapped a few photos of it on our way out just to try and share/convey the oddness of the exhibit.

A yellow swimsuit (?) leotard (?) modern day corset (?) suspended by two ropes, one of which had little yellow ribbons. Yes, that’s a screen in the bottom of it showing I do not know what. A few people looked more closely at the video screen. I couldn’t bring myself to do so.
I blame the Puritans.
Purses on stools with red velvet covers. Ok, could be interesting. But wait, look inside the purse…
an orb playing an indiscernible video…?????
Pipilotti Rist, eh, not so much…But perhaps the fact that this exhibit has the most pictures and the most commentary in this post is the point…

The exhibit where we spent the most amount of time was Lauren Greenfield’s Generation Wealth. Really it was more a documentary: “A visual shell shock: With ‘Generation Wealth’ Lauren Greenfield has created a unique document of the recent decades’ crazed consumerism in a world, which is increasingly obsessed with the dream of looking both beautiful and rich.” Photographs and videos, all with fairly detailed descriptions that took time to read. I know the wealth is out there, but I intentionally avoid thinking about it as the world slides deeper into ecological and climate apocalypse from human activity, (including that of our family). Anti-depressants have a limit to their effectiveness.

But for Generation Wealth, I did feel an obligation (and morbid curiosity) to stay.

Going through this exhibit I found myself getting physically sick to my stomach at the greed, consumption, selfishness, jaw dropping waste, shallowness, cultures that encourages sadly impressive spending so young girls grow up faster and orders of magnitude more spending for women to look ever younger, obscene wealth earned and spent around the world.

A few examples.

The couple that set out to build a replica of Versailles in Florida (would have been the biggest house in the USA), spent years collecting stuff from France to furnish it, and stores it all in a 60,000 sq ft warehouse. And they lost their not-even-half-finished Versailles-copy dream home after the 2008 crash.

But are still filthy rich.

A 16 year old polo player from China, attending Choate, owns 5 horses.

A 9 year old owns 3 luxury cars.

Mall of the Emirates in Dubai has an indoor downhill ski area.

Girls in LA start getting plastic surgery in middle school.

A bus driver (somewhere in the USA) goes to Brazil to get 8 plastic surgeries – it’s cheaper and the doctor is fine performing them all at once. The USA doctor wanted to do them one at a time.

A family of 4 from Rochester NY moves – flying of course – (another huge contributor to global carbon emissions) to one of the most expensive capital cities in the world for a 1 year sabbatical, and does so on one income. Maybe one day traveling on zero carbon emissions sail boats will become the norm.

Ok, so our family did not actually make it into the Generation Wealth exhibit, but I include this to share that while it’s easy to focus blame on the super rich for their wealth and habits, too many of us are complicit in this culture of consumption and waste and fossil fuel emissions. I am acutely aware – just about every waking moment of every day – of the privilege of having this opportunity. And I’m constantly identifying (and acting on) ways I can use this opportunity to make the world a better place. I’m open to suggestions if you have them.

I took my time, reading just about every description and watching every movie/slide show.

This poster outside the museum advertising the Generation Wealth exhibit was the only photograph I took of the exhibit. It was quite crowded. The exhibit is open through February 2020, so if there are any visitors who come before then and would like to go, I’ll definitely go again. It’ll give me an excuse to become a member – an on going *discussion* with MBH. Will we save or lose money on memberships? I didn’t get a membership yesterday but said if I went again, I was definitely getting one. There are lots of activities and art for children and the grounds are a wonderful place to explore.

This does remind me of a story from when the oldest was about 4 years old. We lived in New Haven Connecticut, 4 houses down from Vincent Kay, Founder and Owner of Swords into Plowshares honey. His honey processing barn was in his back yard, and he also kept 10 or so chickens in the coop behind his house. Periodically I’d send the girls down there to get either eggs or honey or both.

One day he told me when they came down, the oldest had announced, apropos of nothing “You know we are very rich.” (at that particular point in our lives money was quite tight)

This took him aback but he asked “Oh, really? What makes you say that?” Her response “Well, we have food, and clothing, and shelter, and medicine when we need it, so that makes us RICH!” Remembering that story always makes me smile.

After spending about 90 minutes in the Generation Wealth exhibit, I was feeling quite drained and needed to go outside.

I’d read and heard how incredibly beautiful the grounds are, and on a day like yesterday, they were magnificent. Sculptures and art throughout, paths that go every which a way. The museum sits right on the coast of the Baltic Sea and as such there are gorgeous views of the sea and of Sweden on clear days.

I snapped a few pictures.

The sight that greeted me when I first stepped outside, one of the doors. There are many many doors to the outside throughout the museum. The layout of the museum made it a little challenging to navigate but not having a teen and pre-teen whining about being bored and wanting to go home meant we could just kind of wander. I honestly think they would have enjoyed the Generation Wealth exhibit and then just hanging out at the cafe with the view of the Sea. The youngest would have probably enjoyed exploring the grounds.
Kids (ok ok English language hawks, “CHILDREN”) under 18 are free.
View from the museum’s patio. There’s a cafe at the museum and by the time we were thinking about grabbing something to eat, there wasn’t much food left – a few coconut macaroons. This wasn’t really what we were in the mood for and it was a little too late in the day for coffee. In more than one cafe, I’ve asked if they have decaf and the response I get is a chuckle with a head shake. “Silly Americans” they must be thinking. But I’m going to keep asking because some cafe somewhere must have decaf. Another anecdotal observation we’ve made in a few places, including this cafe, is that there isn’t an abundance of all prepared foods 100% of the time. Like too many places in the US where everyone up until the last customer has all the choices as the first customer did. Instead, there seems to be a finite amount of food prepared, and when it’s gone it’s gone. And while it makes things less convenient, I will -100% of the time – take the less-convenient over the impact: reduction in food waste. Whether or not it’s happening in Denmark on a scale big enough to make a dent in the country’s carbon emissions from food waste, I don’t know. Reducing food waste is the #3 solution to drawing down carbon globally and something my family considers me to be more than a little obsessive about. One thing the Danish government (or maybe it’s just Copenhagen) does do is municipal composting. Our apartment has a”bio” bin – for compost that is picked up once a week. (Recycling is a different matter- more on that later). There may be governmental policies that incentivize restaurants to reduce food waste. Or maybe it’s the cost of food. Or maybe it’s Danes being Danes and consistently striving to be sustainable and reduce consumption and carbon emissions. Either way, a whole lot of people and countries could learn a thing or two from the Danes about reducing food waste.
My dad has always said that photos are much better with people in them. “Photos with just landscapes or trees or castles are too boring,” he’s said for years. Hearing this my whole life has had an impact. Dad, you are right. So here’s a selfie for you:)
Final picture of the sea (and Sweden) at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art.

It was getting near closing time and dinner time, so we headed home. Rounded up the girls and biked [10 minutes] to an Asian food place grad students had recommended to MBH.

It was quite delicious.

All smiles.
Just gotta toss that hair…
Also, for those of you that notice the bottled water on the table… I know, I know. It’s terrible. And wasteful. And contributes mightily to carbon emissions. Except for possibly Jaden Smith’s bottled water company, JUST Water.
We take our reusable water bottles with us almost everywhere. But sometimes we forget or don’t anticipate not getting water in re-usable cups. Which is what happened at Chin Chin. We kept and will re-use these bottles

All and all a lovely Saturday. I highly recommend the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art and I do think the girls would enjoy it. Maybe one day I’ll convince them.

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Bikes, phones, vampires, Danish bureaucracy, and an intro to Danish pronunciations…

Vampires, wha…? (It’s there, promise!) Read on with patience and care…

In our first 3 weeks we bought 6 bikes. They are all 2nd hand – bought either from DBA.dk ( Danish version of craigslist), or in local bike shops. This may be considered excessive by some (a colleague of MBH’s comment was “you might have a bike problem,”) going carless for the year means we all need [pedal-able] wheels.

A few bike photos before tales of SIM cards, CPR numbers, Visas, NemIDs, and Rejsekorts.

B.B.B.

Bikes.Before. Bureaucracy

Mom, Can I take this bike home with me? Response: um, no sweetie, sorry. Even though you beat me in arm wrestling. That 500 pound, 800 dkk bike ($118 USD) will exceed our entire baggage weight limit.
MOM! STOP TAKING MY PICTURE!
Their expressions say it all (and crack me up every time I look at this photo. Hopefully one day they will be as amused). Also, turns out this (two people sharing a bike meant only for one person) is illegal in Denmark. Fortunately they/we did not get caught by the authorities for ICA (Illegal Cycling Activities). And as I’m reviewing this photo I realized they were also breaking a 2nd biking rule. Cyclists are supposed to stop at the back of buses that pull over at bus stops (where passengers step out right in the bike path, like the bus in this photo). This is so cyclists don’t plow into bus passengers disembarking. I’m hoping my memory is serving me correctly: that these bus passengers disembarked unscathed.
MBH with his Denmark road bike. A dba.dk purchase.
My road bike. I think she’s beautiful. The girls think she’s ugly. And are of course entitled to their opinions. Also another dba.dk purchase. Thank the Lord (again and again and again) for Google Translate.
And just because I’m sure you’re curious, here’s the origin story of this bike.
Every July there’s a big charity bike ride from Scandinavia to Paris, to raise money for children’s cancer research. Team Rynkeby. You raise/pay 20,000 dkk (~$3000), and are part of the group that cycles to Paris. Part of the package is this road bike that retails for 16000 dkk. This particular bike has been to Paris 3X. Carbon fiber, Shimano 105 components. And personally I love the color and the sticker decor. I got a pretty amazing deal and am seriously considering bringing it back to the states. The previous owner’s stickers are still all over, which I think gives it so much character. (mom, it’s really ugly) In the 4 weeks I’ve had this bike, I’ve cycled about 275 or so miles. Which might sound impressive to some, but I Am Very Very Very Very Slow… So slow I will not publicly reveal my RunKeeper data. Maybe next year. After I’ve trained for that Half Ironman I keep saying I’m going to sign up for. I say it enough times, it will be so, right? This week I’ve been thinking about naming the bike. And have zero creativity when it comes to that sort of thing.
So, for those so inclined, I’m taking bike-name suggestions!

Others may say “but what about public transportation?” (or, with more snark “sure, biking’s great now, but what about in December?) Public transportation in Copenhagen/Denmark is excellent. It is also very expensive, especially if you don’t have a Rejsekort. (~$4 per trip on the bus – cash only (Exact change not necessary! This does make it easier) $8 or more for the S-tog each trip, debit card only). Unless the ticket machines and the 7-eleven ticket-sale system at the station aren’t working. Then you just gotta get on and hope you don’t get caught without a ticket. Which the girls and I did have to do one day. We did not get caught. Whew. And truthfully? I was so caught up in “the Danish Way” and being honest and wanting to follow all the rules (possibly birth order came into play too. I’m the oldest of 3 girls, and according to one of my sisters, my whole life growing up I had a “halo” and could do no wrong (until I came back from Africa in 2003 – drinking, smoking, and omg, changed political parties(!!!)).

Anyhow, for whatever reason, I seriously considered buying our train tickets once we got back to Copenhagen (post trip!). For about 30 seconds. Then I wisened up, thought “that’s pretty nuts and probably no Dane has ever done that, ever.” So quickly I talked myself out of following through on that GI (Good Idea).

So, back to the Rejsekort. Rejsekort pronunciation: French “R” (the fun French gutteral R sound) then “eye” “se” “kort” (soft guttural R again and soft-sounding T)

To get a Rejsekort, you need a NEM ID. And to get NemID, you need a CPR number.

And getting that CPR number required, well, I’ll just say it was the Danish Government’s version of Pan’s Labyrinth. We (read that, MBH) started looking into this back in April ? May? Can’t quite remember. It was also expensive. And time consuming. It required an overnight trip to NYC for a biometrics appointment with a company that contracts with the Danish Government. And things were going pretty smoothly (only slightly stressful).

But then things got very very very stressful.

You simply cannot have an overseas move without something super duper stressful happening. And for us it was learning that we’d screwed up getting the girls’ their biometrics data. We had misunderstood the online information about the requirements and thought they didn’t need to submit biometrics for their CPR numbers. Wrong. Big Oops.

As a result of our misunderstanding, about two weeks before our DOD (Date of Departure), we learned we were facing $15k in fines, if the girls did not have their CPR numbers by Sept 4th, *insert numerous freaked out emojis here.* Something about the girls and their school and Danish subsidies and having to have their CPR numbers…

We actually considered delaying our move (the cost of forfeiting our plane tickets, and buying new ones was less than $15K), but ultimately decided to just do our best to get the girls CPR numbers before the Sept 4th deadline.

We realized our budget would take a HELL of a hit if we had to pay that $15K, but so much was already in motion we just had to go for it. Movers were booked, our Rochester house was already rented, tenants were moving in, we had a lease signed for an apartment in Copenhagen, starting August 8th, and our Copenhagen Airbnb was booked (and paid for) for August 1 to August 8th.

Friends also encouraged us to just go. They said that although the bureaucracy is intense, the Danes are so efficient it would surely work out. (Thank you friends! You know who you are. You were totally right!)

For all the Danish bureaucracy, once we made the appointments, begged and pleaded with anyone who would listen, prayed, begged and pleaded some more, sweated, spent more than a few sleepless nights tossing and turning with CPR number nightmares, the girls got their CPR numbers a couple of weeks before the deadline. WHEW.

Gazing in awe and wonder at International House Copenhagen. The place to finalize CPR Numbers. The appointments were super quick and efficient. Thankfully!

MBH gets all the credit for making this happen.

All smiles outside Copenhagen International House after successfully obtaining his CPR number.

One casualty of the Danish Bureaucracy is my National ID card photo (separate from the CPR card, the NemID card, and the Rejsekort card).

I look like a vampire. But not a beautiful one, like Bella.

Scary, I know. Yeesh. This might just be how all the freshman, in the dorm where I was a Resident Advisor (at Virginia Tech, years and years ago) viewed me. No Nonsense. Do Not Mess With Me. Or Break Any Rules. Or Wake Me Up at 3am Because You Don’t Have Your Damn Room Key. I did hear a story (via another RA) that one freshman chose (very wisely) to sleep in the hall bathtub one night instead of waking me (the RA on duty) up (at 3am) to let him into his room. My being an actual vampire would have certainly helped the not-quite-sober boy as vampires don’t sleep…Alas, I was not, and he made TRD (The Right Decision).

THANKFULLY, I got to choose my own photo for my Rejsekort card. Yay! And I was NOT going to let an opportunity for an excellent photo on a transportation card exactly zero people will ever see, pass me by.

So.Much.Better.than my National ID card photo. If I do say so myself. If you disagree, it’s O.K.! We can still be friends.

How I prepped for my Rejsekort selfie:

  • ATTIRE: Put on one of my favorite shirts – that I bought second hand (Clothes Mentor in Henrietta, NY) several years ago. It is quickly approaching unwearable-in-public threadbare status but totally usable for this picture (and any outfit where I wear a sweater or jacket over it). It also has one little hole on a seam behind my shoulder. As soon as I find a sewing kit (proving difficult in Copenhagen) I’m going to pay the youngest to sew it for me as I’m still not a sew-er.
  • JEWELRY: One of my favorite necklaces that MBH gave me years ago. One of those occasions where I had stated very clearly and emphatically that I did NOT want a gift (therefore getting myself off the hook for having to get him one). But, being the wonderful and thoughtful husband he is, he went and picked out the necklace below, and I’ve loved it ever since. Was I as thoughtful? That is a rhetorical question…
    HAIR: I also brushed my hair – typically a bi-monthly occasion. Getting my hair cut is a bicentennial event. Especially now that we’re in the Expensive-Haircut Capital of the World. 380dkk ($56!!!!!) for an 8 minute man’s buzz cut (!!!!).
  • PHOTO EDITING: cropped out the split ends.
  • MAKEUP: I put on lipstick. I really love this particular lipstick and like so many seemingly innocuous things in our lives, there is a story behind it. It’s Mary Kay Figue Somptueuse “Rich Fig” and once belonged to Becky Sullivan, my brother in law’s mother. Becky died suddenly and unexpectedly almost a year ago – October 8th, 2018. She was from Chattanooga, TN and we’ve lived at least a day’s drive from family for 15 years, so we would see her about once a year or once every other year. In between the times I was fortunate enough to see her in person, I usually knew what she was up to from my sister and brother in law. And in spite of the distance, what I do remember very clearly was her deep love for all friends and family, her sense of humor, her warmth, her sass, her incredibly bright joie de vivre. You can read more about Becky here. The week she died, I flew to Chattanooga to be with my sister and brother in law and to help out with whatever needed to be done. One of the tasks was to sort through Becky’s things and as we were doing so, someone found a box of unopened Mary Kay merchandise, including this lipstick. Becky was always very well put together – hair, make up, clothes – another thing I really admired about her. Taking care with my appearance has never been my own strong suit, but at that moment I was inspired to start. So after checking to make sure no one else wanted the makeup, I took a few pieces from the box. And while I’m still not one to put on makeup very often, this is now my lipstick color. I think of Becky often, and I especially think of her every time I apply Figue Sompteuse. Becky, you are loved and missed.

Phones

We got our EU SIM cards day 2 of our arrival. It took less than 10 minutes and cost 100dkk ($14.82) each. They also came with Danish phone numbers and, ready for this? EIGHTY GIGS OF DATA FOR THE MONTH. Yes, you read that right, 80 GB of data. For less than $15. Our 2-phone family plan in the USA, with ONE GB of data each month cost way way WAAAAY more than the $60 it cost for 4 phones with 80 GB of data each. We re-upped at the beginning of September, and turns out, the minimum plan is 100 GB (!!!!) for the same price 100 dkk.

Travel tip: If you travel to Europe don’t bother with an international phone plan (when we checked into this for past trips, these plans were stupid expensive) just go to a phone store and buy a SIM card.

Also, telecom companies are robbing USA customers blind.

80 GB of data?!?!? omg omg omg
Although the youngest is not quite as into phones as her sister, even she couldn’t contain delighted surprise at 80gb of data. Getting phones was one perk (some may call it a bribe) for moving overseas away from their schools and friends and lives. Huge thanks to Aunt Conoly and Uncle Matt for passing theirs on to these two.

So, one month and 8 days in to our one year sabbatical in Copenhagen, all the Kelleys have:

  • Bikes.
  • CPR numbers (I’m told this is primarily our health care ID)
  • Necessary Medical Appointments (very easy to make)
    • me – an appointment with my assigned GP (General Practitioner)
    • the eldest – appointment with her assigned orthodontist
  • NemIDs (actually, just MBH and I. 15 and unders don’t get NemIDs).
  • Rejsekorts
    • either in hand or on the way. I just ordered the girls’ cards this morning and expect them to arrive in the mail by Friday at the latest.
  • What remains (and that MBH is working diligently on):
    • Denmark bank account
      Denmark Mobile Pay (Denmark version of Pay Pal or Venmo)
      Figuring out how to actually use those Rejsekorts…

Danish Pronunciations

The other aspect to settling in that has made things So.Much.Less Painful than it could have otherwise been – is the prevalence of English here. The vast majority of websites translate to English (many do so automatically), google translate with video camera is pretty amazing, and Every.Single.Danish.Person.In.Copenhagen speaks brilliant English. In fact, they prefer switching to English than listening to me try and speak Danish with French pronunciations. Although that French “r” sound is coming in handy.

Here’s some fun-with-Danish-pronunciations for you:

Disclaimers:

  • phonetic spellings below are a mixture of English and French
  • I could still be wrong about the pronunciations below. This is my own understanding based on convos with Danes and ex-pats and hours on Duolingo). If you know better, please feel free to correct me.

The Danish “y”

Pronounced like the French “u.”

  • Lyngby (a town) —> Loon-g (very very soft) -boo
  • Ryparken (a train station and park near us) –> Rue – Parken
  • Meny (a grocery store) –>Men-(then “ue” sound as in “rue”

The word “havn”

Pronounced “hound”

  • Nordhavn (neighborhood with the girls school) —>Nor_hound

And as unbelievable as this may sound to some, the frustrations and stress have been worth it. The Danish Bureaucracy and systems can feel quite overwhelming, but once you’re through it, and on the other side, and have the numbers and cards and papers and phones and apps and wifi you need, life becomes more of a cinch…

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Neighborhood Loppemarked!

It feels like it’s been ages and ages (In actuality only about 3 weeks) since I wrote and published a blog post. However, I’ve been taking pictures and THINKING CONSTANTLY about what I’m going to write, all the exciting (to me at least, still not sure it’s so exciting to others) things I’m going to share, fun pictures I’m going to post. But then, I hop on my awesome (2nd hand) road bike for a 30 mile bike ride, or I stroll around Copenhagen (gotta get my 10,000 steps in), or go grocery shopping (multiple trips per day required due to limitations of grocery shopping by bike), or meet a friend for coffee. There are also cute cat/animal videos ya’ll keep posting on FB. Or hilarious twitter hashtags trending: #RevolutionaryWarAirports, #30to50feralhogs to name a couple of the funniest. Then 8pm (my bed and reading time) rolls around and lo and behold another day has passed and no blog post…

But today, I’m just going to write something. My plan this coming week, of course, is to post daily and catch up with sharing all the things we’ve been up to. Unless, the weather is decent (above 10C and not pouring), I commit to being a Boy Scout mom, and soccer team parent liaison. In all cases, chances of following through with catching up on blog posts is reduced by approximately 90%.

Yesterday (Saturday) was a clear and beautiful beautiful day in Copenhagen. Very few clouds, zero bursts of rain the whole day. I have yet to find a weather app/weather station that can give me an accurate forecast but all last week it was cloudy and would randomly rain (pour) every hour or so. I’m almost to the point of giving up trying to plan my outings or bike rides around the weather. But not quite. But anyhow, yesterday was beautiful.

I was trying to figure out what we could do and then MBH had the brilliant suggestion of going out in search of flea markets (Loppemarked – super popular in Copenhagen and all over the place). The oldest especially, loves them (her allowance money only goes so far for new purchases) and of course, given my (probably a bit unhealthy) obsession with reducing consumption and living sustainably and climate change, I love them too. I know there’s thing about going into Target or Costco or Wegmans or *insert name of store here* for $15 worth of stuff and leaving with $250 worth of stuff. I walk into those stores and kind of cringe, buy what I went there for and leave as quickly as possible. But 2nd hand stores/flea markets are a whole different ballgame…My oldest also tells me you can really only find out about them in Copenhagen if you’re connected to the right people on FB.

But, I did a quick google search and learned that googling “Fleamarket” is quite productive. I found this page and decided to check out the Frederiksberg Loppemarked. So, I googled the route to get there, checked, re-checked, and checked weather.com. Then checked again. Then I repeated this process with AccuWeather and Weather Underground and Yr.No. It all looked good. Then we planned out the bags and bikes and racks we needed to have so we could haul any purchases back. Rechecked to make sure the market was going to be open. Did some research into what we might explore in the neighborhood around the market. And so on and so forth. The rabbit hole of google for such an excursion here can go very very very deep.

And THEN, after ALL this planning and google research and (99% of the time, useless) weather page monitoring (but thankfully not yesterday!) , we walked right outside our front door and turns out our whole neighborhood was a loppemarked. I’m sure it was posted on the neighborhood FB page, but it’s all in Danish so I don’t pay attention (clearly I should, and just use the brilliant google translate app with the camera).

Here are some of the things we acquired.

Black purse for the youngest. Easier and lighter to UWB (Use While Biking) than her backpack. Especially her, she travels light, everywhere. In fact, last week, she went on a 4 day overnight field trip with the 7th grade at CIS and packed a small duffle, and her backpack. She had to bike it all to school so she could only take what she could carry (and what could be waterproofed. It was pouring rain that morning and the bike ride to school is about 15 minutes). I felt a little sorry for her – but not sorry enough to actually bike with her to the school to help her carry her things and see her off. Of course I told myself I’d spend the bad-weather time writing a blog post, and totally didn’t. Anyhow – she said other kids kept asking her where her other bags were (many had 3 to 5 bags). I biked to where they were staying last Wednesday, because I wanted to check out that bike route and pop in to say hi (and have a good excuse to not write a blog post that day)
Hopefully that’ll one day be a blog post…

Our apartment is furnished, has lots of windows, but little lighting. Since we’ve been here, that’s worked out just fine. The long hours of daylight has meant that our apartment is bright and airy. But, the days are already getting shorter and daylight will eventually last only about 4 hours a day, so more lamps/lighting are essential.

Bare wooden floors makes for poor acoustics (and cold feet). So we’re keeping an eye out for 2nd hand area rugs. Last week we picked up a very big one a neighbor had just left on the street. This one cost 80dkk (google tells me this is 11.82 USD) I love google. And fully understand they will take over the world one day. But when I go down, I know I won’t be going alone. Google owns us all. Except possibly MBH. He was doing very well staying off the google radar until *I* signed up for some random keto diet online newsletter. Then HE started getting keto diet emails!! hahahahahaha. Sorry, my love. Also, yikes! that is super creepy.

The red bike bag. In great condition. One of the best bargains – 20DKK or $2.96 USD. New, these things cost $80 to $100.. As I bought the yellow bags new as a gift for MBH a few years ago. On an occasion that I *actually* remembered. Birthday or anniversary or Christmas. I’m terrible with gift giving occasions…except that time. I did alright.
One of the things on my loppemarked shopping list is a yoga mat. I asked MBH to keep an eye out, GBH (God Bless Him), he texted to tell me he’d found one, 10dkk ~$1.80 USD. I was so excited. But, as some may be able to tell, this isn’t actually a yoga mat – More of a camping sleeping pad. No matter, I’m going to try and use it anyway… (and keep my eye out for a yoga mat). At the very least we’ll have some floor padding for visitors (JUST the children, adults will get a bed, promise!)
Another excellent deal. YARN! For the youngest, who loves to knit thanks very much to my dear friend Lisa, who taught her (and gave her her first start up bag of needles and yarn). I don’t knit or sew. In fact, years and years ago, when I was about 12, my mom signed me up for an intro needlepoint class. I was about as disciplined then as I am now (which is to say Not.At.All) and after the class was over (6 or 8 weeks, I think), I had a sampler pillow that was about 1/4 finished. I remember very clearly asking the teacher when I should finish it and she said, well, at least in the next 5 years, ha ha ha. I laughed too, thinking “That’s silly, of course I’ll finish it in the next few months). Aaaaand guess what, I never finished that pillow. I’m sure the bag is still in my parents house somewhere. I also ask my youngest to repair my clothes, sew on my buttons (pathetic, I know). Which she does, happily. And as I’m typing this, I’m realizing I am totally taking advantage of her good nature, so henceforth I will be paying her for such tasks.
Anyhow, back to this new project. Green is her favorite color, this wool is a blend of alpaca and merino wool (SO SOFT, she says) and the whole bag was 40 dkk (5.91 USD).
You may notice there are commercially rolled balls of yarn and hand rolled balls of yarn. She’s unravelling two sweaters.
The seller of this bag of yarn had started a complicated sweater, stopped about 1/4 of the way through. Then started a less complicated sweater with the same yarn, and gave up on that one too. Then, after letting the bag of 2 unfinished sweaters and unused yarn sit around in her house for many years, decided to just sell it. I’m gonna take a wild guess that there are more folks out there besides myself and this seller who start awesome projects only to fairly quickly give up on them. The youngest is going to make socks (says that anything else is beyond her expertise, even with youtube video instruction. And has said more than once “I need Lisa for that). UPDATE: The youngest is going to NOT make socks – but a hat and cowl, or shawl, or hat and scarf. Thank you Lisa!!
And finally, the ugliest purchase of the day. Gummy Wrapper earrings. That’s the oldest flashing a peace sign. She would not consent to a picture of her wearing these. The seller was shocked she (anyone!) even wanted them and hadn’t prepared a price. 5dkk. Which the eldest paid.
I think this might be the *one* occasion in Danish people’s existence where price negotiation could have actually happened. Danes are quite direct and don’t bargain. Our understanding is they actually find it quite insulting. But in this case I think the oldest could have said “how about 2dkk?” and the seller would have agreed. And yes, we’re talking a difference of pennies here, but when I think about those earrings costing 1/4 the price of that awesome bike bag, I kind of cringe…So goes loppemarked shopping. The eldest says she’s planning her Halloween costume… to be junk food (She is the first to admit she is a junk and sugar food junkie) And for anyone judging me on this, trust me, we’re working on it…
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Bikes, trains, troll hunting, nude beaches, smørrebrød, and friends: A perfect day trip to Greve Strand.

Beautiful, clean, and renewable energy in Greve Strand,(a small town south of Copenhagen) Denmark

We had the good fortune to connect with friends (our next door neighbors) from Cambridge, MA (We lived there summer 2012 to summer 2013). Christine, the mom, is half Danish, so I had reached out to her a few weeks ago, and turns out they were going to be visiting Denmark! So we made plans to meet in the small town where they were visiting her cousin – Greve Strand.

I’ll also say that once again, careful study of the week’s weather was a factor in the decision to meet in Greve Strand and go to the beach on Monday. Monday was going to be the sunniest day this week. Although this is definitely *not* the Danish way. The saying is “there’s no bad weather, only bad clothing.” And in the 3 short weeks we’ve been here, I can say this is true.

First the girls and I had to get there. This required:

  • biking to the nearest train station (Norreport Station) with the S-tog that went directly to the Greve Strand train stop.
  • figuring out which train was ours,
  • determining which direction to go,
  • find the right platform
  • buy train tickets.
  • validate train tickets
  • get on the right train.

Norreport Station is huge. Lots of entrances. Lots of S-tog trains and metro trains.

  • Here’s the one map we found
I had to really study this. And it’s when I found out there’s a difference between S-tog (commuter rail) and Metro (city center metro)

Where do we go? There was some disagreement.

This way! NO, that way!

I stayed out of it and let them lead the way. The oldest was also very frustrated that I wouldn’t just ask someone. I’m determined to figure these things out. Also, I’m reluctant to ask for help…

Just follow us mom…

Buying tickets

After confusing an ATM machine for the ticket machine, I did buy a ticket. But I was expecting 2 tickets – one for me and one for the oldest. The youngest doesn’t need one because she’s not yet 13. But only one ticket popped out and I thought I’d done something wrong. (Ticket was in Danish) I have just accepted that I will make plenty of mistakes and blunders as I/we try to figure things out here and figured this was one of those times. And this is where my hours and hours and hours of trying to learn some Danish on Duolingo came in handy.

On the little ticket, about 1/3 of the way down, there was a line with “1 Voksen 1 Barne” I didn’t know voksen, but I knew barn (child). One adult, one child. So whew, we were good.

Validating the ticket.

I remembered reading somewhere about validating train tickets. And while on-train checks for validated tickets are random (and it’s not like US metros where you have to scan a ticket or card for the gate to open. No gates here), according to whatever guide book I was reading, ticket-checkers do not have much sympathy for tourists (which we totally are right now and likely will be for the duration of our stay). So we tried to validate our ticket.

It just wouldn’t validate. But I looked around and most people were validating plastic cards – not paper tickets.

So I figured we needed to just get on and if I’d done something wrong I’d just do my best to talk my way out of it.

Later that day, I asked our Danish friends about this – and turns out the kind of ticket I’d bought “use now” is good for up to 2 hours and does not need to be validated.

Finally! We’re on the train. Hope it’s the right one!!

All smiles. One is still a bit skeptical. That’s cool. I’d expect no less from a teen.

We arrived, met our friends, and set out to the beach. It was absolutely beautiful.

First view of the harbor.
Another picture of the harbor…
Headed to lunch at a little cafe just on the other side of those boats. About a 20 minute walk from where we were standing. And where we are standing here is about a 20 minute walk from the train station.
Fishing nets were essential.
Our lunch spot. This cafe serves delicious Smørrebrød (Danish open faced sandwiches)
Harbor view. The building on the left in the distance was where we ate lunch.
Done with lunch now headed to the beach. The walking and biking paths were everywhere. And amazing. The two women on the bikes – my friends sister and her friend, had just completed a ride from Berlin to Copenhagen. Badass.

Decision points for the group:

  • Lifeguard? Or no lifeguard?
  • Nude beach? Or non-nude beach?

We asked the kids about nude vs non-nude beach and they all just kind of shrugged. Not a big deal to them.

The flag in this picture indicates there is a lifeguard here.

But THEN our friends told us about the TROLL!!

Apparently trolls are important in Denmark, and there’s an artist (can’t remember his name) who has built trolls in random places all over Denmark. There’s a hashtag on instagram #TrollHunting. I was super curious about this troll under the bridge nearby.

We walked another 25 minutes down the path along the beach.

And arrived to the troll bridge!

Can you find the troll’s hand?

But where’s the rest of the troll?

There it is!
The youngest. Always willing to smile for the camera. The kid with the California shirt on is sitting on the troll’s nose. He sat there for quite a while and I wasn’t sure I’d ever get a picture of the trolls face.

TROLL FACE!

The stuff of nightmares.

I took a few pictures from the troll bridge.

The white building in the distance is a fabulous art museum. Hopefully we’ll get to visit one day.
View from troll’s bridge in the other direction.

Now can we please go to the beach and swim?

Off to the beach we went.

The beach!!

This beach (non-nude) was unfortunately inundated with seaweed that smelled quite bad. It was the non-nude beach.
Arriving at our spot. It was starting to get cloudy. This was a nude beach. But we had the actual beach spot to ourselves. There were naked people but they were smart and had set up their towels in the dunes where it was far less windy. I don’t know why this picture is so fuzzy. Apologies.

SWIMMING!

I’m taking this picture from the beach because, once again, I was taking my time working up the courage to get into the water. Which I did do. It was a few degrees warmer than the harbor water in Copenhagen – probably because it was much more shallow here. Harbor water we swim in is 27 feet deep. Where the group is in this picture is about 3 feet deep.

We headed home at 4pm and had to get on the train without a ticket (!?!?!) The ticket kiosk was broken, and although there was a little 7-eleven at the train station that sold train tickets, the minute the clerk went to put in my order her ticket system went down. The oldest and youngest were very very tired and begging to get on the train (we’d walked about 7 miles and they had swum for about an hour). So the clerk said “just get on, they probably won’t check tickets and even if they do, they’ll be able to see that the ticket buying system is down here so you’ll be fine. This sounded a bit far fetched to me, but I was willing to give it a go (getting on the train without a ticket)

The train ride was only about 15 minutes. Perfect amount of time for a cat nap.

Thank goodness we got a bit of rest on train ride home. Because when we got back to Norreport station, the rows upon rows upon rows of bikes greeted us. And we hadn’t paid much attention to where we’d put ours.

Oops.

Where oh where are our bikes?

Fortunately, the oldest’s bike really stands out (it’s red and white) and the youngest’s is fairly distinct as well. Mine is black and looks like thousands of others at this train station.

We found the bikes within about 10 minutes. Whew.

And encountered some bike traffic on the way home. It was rush hour.

More bikes than cars at rush hour. It’s awesome.

For friends and family who plan to visit, if you’re interested we can definitely take a similar day trip. There are towns like these all along the coast. Just delightful.